Valves are set to pool mode. In the pic you can see I'm on my last step of getting the pump output pipe fixed up.
Filter is more sensitive after pump upgrade, needs more backwashing
- Thread starter pcm2a
- Start date
Ok it is all completed now. New multiport, lateral, and sand. No leaks so far. Now all we need to do is see if my water flow is reduced in a few weeks or if it is fixed.
Ok guys it's been around two weeks and over the past few days the flow has started to reduce again.... Today at 3450 rpm the water is barely moving and the PSI was at 30. I backwashed for about 45-60 seconds until the viewer was clear. Now the flow is strong and the PSI is at 18. It didn't seem very dirty to me, to have reduced the flow so much.
Flow before backwashing, at 30 psi:
Flow after backwashing, at 18 psi:
Maybe my old Northstar pump housing was able to provide a much stronger flow of water even with a slightly dirty filter?
Flow before backwashing, at 30 psi:
Maybe my old Northstar pump housing was able to provide a much stronger flow of water even with a slightly dirty filter?
In 95 out of 100 reports exactly like yours, chemistry remains the problem. Don't know how else we can say it. Posting complete test results is the first step.
On the previous page I posted the results back then and an overnight test, which was fine. I'll grab a new full set today and report back.
April 23rd: FC: 3.4, pH: 7.8, TA: 80, CH: 240, CYA: 50-60 (tested 2 weeks ago)
April 24th: OCLT of .6
May 17th: FC: 3.8, pH: 7.6, TA: 80, CH: 230, CYA was last tested 5+ weeks ago, probably in the 40-50 range. Not sunny so didn't test it.
I can keep the chlorine higher but I'll be shocked (ha ha) if that changed anything. The TFP method has been working great for years now.
April 24th: OCLT of .6
May 17th: FC: 3.8, pH: 7.6, TA: 80, CH: 230, CYA was last tested 5+ weeks ago, probably in the 40-50 range. Not sunny so didn't test it.
I can keep the chlorine higher but I'll be shocked (ha ha) if that changed anything. The TFP method has been working great for years now.
I sense your reluctance to buy into the chemistry idea. Let me see if I can convince you......maybe not.
When you experience a loss of flow and an increase in pressure and you have changed nothing else, it is ONLY because the debris (dead algae) is being captured by your filter. That causes more resistance in your filter but is alleviated when you backwash out the debris, restoring the good flow and lower psi.
So, if you accept that there is debris in your filter causing this pressure rise and low flow, what do you think this debris is composed of if not dead algae? Your water is not dirty or cloudy, right?
If you do not accept that the pressure rise and low flow is being caused by debris, then what other issues could be causing it. Why does backwash restore it?
When you experience a loss of flow and an increase in pressure and you have changed nothing else, it is ONLY because the debris (dead algae) is being captured by your filter. That causes more resistance in your filter but is alleviated when you backwash out the debris, restoring the good flow and lower psi.
So, if you accept that there is debris in your filter causing this pressure rise and low flow, what do you think this debris is composed of if not dead algae? Your water is not dirty or cloudy, right?
If you do not accept that the pressure rise and low flow is being caused by debris, then what other issues could be causing it. Why does backwash restore it?
My theory is two+ weeks of dirt is enough to impede the flow of this pump. However, this is easily tested right? I can shock the pool, keep the chlorine higher than normal, and if was algea in two weeks my pressure and flow should be fine? Weather isn't going to allow swimming for the next few days so it's a good time for it.
I feel this way because this happened right after I got the new pump. So mysteriously the old pump was able to keep the algae away, but the new pump can't?
I feel this way because this happened right after I got the new pump. So mysteriously the old pump was able to keep the algae away, but the new pump can't?
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Saturn94
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IMHO, by keeping FC below the recommended target you are on the knife’s edge of a full blown algae outbreak.
Before I learned about the proper FC/CYA ratio, the first sign of an impending algae breakout was a jump in filter pressure, even though the water was clear and the chems were “fine”.
Before I learned about the proper FC/CYA ratio, the first sign of an impending algae breakout was a jump in filter pressure, even though the water was clear and the chems were “fine”.
Saturn94
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Sorry I wasn't able to help. I would suggest you read the SLAM article and perform that process.
Saturn94
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More likely your old pump running at a higher speed was pushing algae and dirt through the filter and the new pump running at a lower speed is allowing the filter to catch more.
Saturn94
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Thanks, I felt like it was directly related to the new pump, even if it is an algae problem. So when my pump is running slow, example 1400 rpm during the night, that algae could be building up? If so, it seems like when the speeds up during the day it would push it on through. I ran the old pump 14 hours at day, not continuous.
I raised the FC up to 10.0 at 10pm last night and the CYA is right at 50 (while sun was out). Easy enough test to keep it on the high side for a couple weeks.
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Saturn94
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As suggested before, it would be better to do a proper SLAM.
www.troublefreepool.com
I’m not sure why you are so reluctant to take the advice given to you by very experienced TFP members. ?
Good luck to you.
SLAM - Shock Level and Maintain
We’ve all had to deal with a green pool. Clear algae from your pool with a SLAM! Read here to use shock level and maintain to clear your pool.
www.troublefreepool.com
I’m not sure why you are so reluctant to take the advice given to you by very experienced TFP members. ?
Good luck to you.
Baby steps, and I do appreciate all of the advice. When I backwashed yesterday and the flow returned to normal, where did all that algae that was clogging things up go?
Flying Tivo
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So while it's not advisable, it is possible that backwashing what was clogging the system out, then keeping the FC at the top end of the recommended amount, could fix things without the shock. If it doesn't, then that's the next step. Walmart is out of 10%!
Flying Tivo
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- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
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- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Thats not the way SLAM Process works, but if you insist on doing it your way, we will be here to watch and laugh. Just Dont expect much answers to your questions. Good luck.
I was not describing the slam process. Before slamming I'm going to verify that keeping my FC at the recommended range will not keep things running smoothly (now that I have backwashed once and the flow is spectacular). I'll report back after a few weeks so you can laugh at me.