Filter housing a "$omb" ready to explode?

[eco-help]

The screw that holds the lid to the filter housing unthreads (from the bottom) - everytime I clean the whole post comes out, I hand tighten)

2 pool contractors have told me to replace my filter completely - because 1. the one I have isn't made anymore (so what?) 2. most important that the screw in thread unscrews and can allow the top of the housing to shoot up.. one said it went as high as 2 story and landed on pump. The other said it hit the owner in the chin.

Recommendation is 200sq ft Pentair RP or Jandy.

Questions:
1. Is my existing filter able to be fixed? That would seem least expensive
2. If not, is the filter recommendation large enough for my pool?
3. Is there a preference Jandy / Pentair? I was told one of them (I forget which) has the input pipe midway up which makes the PVC horizontal from the pipe (less turns)

( This is part of Automation, SWG decisions project but is an add-on -- I find it unlikely someone who has similar question will dig into that thread so created this new one )

Thank you

 

[SemperFly]

What is the make/model of your current filter? I don't see it in your signature line, only the cartridge model.

It would seem to me that if you can't get your existing band tight enough (hand tightening that band bolt is not even close to tight enough), that could be a major safety issue. If you can't source a new or serviceable used replacement band and/or nut and bolt, it may be time for a replacement filter system.

 

[eco-help]

What is the make/model of your current filter? I don't see it in your signature line, only the cartridge model.

It would seem to me that if you can't get your existing band tight enough (hand tightening that band bolt is not even close to tight enough), that could be a major safety issue. If you can't source a new or serviceable used replacement band and/or nut and bolt, it may be time for a replacement filter system.

Thanks, I will update signature.
Its a Hayward Star Clear Plus housing.
I am able to tighten the top mount black screw so that there is "no gap" (I can't tell, it seems to be no gap) between top and bottom housing. I can only hand tighten the bolt that threads to the base as it is a bolt -- I can't find anything that will grab onto it to provide leverage. I tried pliers but it just marks the bolt.
I see the Star Clear Plus is still listed on Hayward site.

 

[SemperFly]

I was imagining a different filter...hand tight for the top 'star' nut is fine, as long as it's not leaking, you should be good. However, if the metal 'tie rod' is coming loose from the bottom of the housing, that could be a problem. You'll need to determine the condition of the bottom end of the rod (corrosion/bad threads, etc) and the condition of the female threaded end, inside the bottom of the filter housing. Ideally, the rod should stay in place, with the filter element sliding over it when you remove it for cleaning. If you can get the rod tightly fit in the bottom of the filter housing, the fix might be a simple as giving the threads on the top of the rod and the star nut a good cleaning with a wire brush, and a little spray lube, so that there's less friction on top and the rod stays in place when you remove the nut.


installation instructions: https://hayward-pool-assets.com/assets/documents/pools/pdf/manuals/StarClearPlus.pdf
parts diagram: https://hayward-pool-assets.com/assets/documents/pools/pdf/parts-diagrams/StarClear-Plus.pdf

 

[eco-help]

To be specific it is this that I have to hand-tighten/often comes out when I lift the top housing: Hayward CX1750Z2 Tie Rod --- Amazon.com: Hayward CX1750Z2 Tie Rod Replacement for Hayward C1750 Star Clear Plus Cartridge Filter: Garden & Outdoor

 

[eco-help]

I was imagining a different filter...hand tight for the top 'star' nut is fine, as long as it's not leaking, you should be good. However, if the metal 'tie rod' is coming loose from the bottom of the housing, that could be a problem. You'll need to determine the condition of the bottom end of the rod (corrosion/bad threads, etc) and the condition of the female threaded end, inside the bottom of the filter housing. Depending on what you find, the cost of parts may not be worth it.

installation instructions: https://hayward-pool-assets.com/assets/documents/pools/pdf/manuals/StarClearPlus.pdf
parts diagram: https://hayward-pool-assets.com/assets/documents/pools/pdf/parts-diagrams/StarClear-Plus.pdf

Yes it is the metal rod... The threads seem fine, it screws in by hand.. It would be nice if it would stay "locked" in place once screwed down. I see the replacement part but I don't see how that is different to what I already have/ how it would help to buy it.
Is there some way to ensure it is screwed all the way in and to "seal it"?

 

[Randrx2]

I may have a solution from a mechanical point of view, but I would need to see a picture of where the tie rod screws into (the part that comes loose). Thank you.

EDIT: I looked it up, no need for pics. Based on your description, the threads are fine and it is screwing in okay. It seems it is screwing in to the bottom and the top. It is just that the top is grabbing as you are disassembling. Clean up the top and bottom treads as much as possible. You should screw in the rod to the bottom as tight as possible by hand without the star nut. Then snug it up using a pipe wrench or vice grips (not the threads). Then, reassemble, going hand tight. If it still does not hold when you unscrew, you may want to try a bit of lock-tite on the bottom threads.

 

[SemperFly]

Sorry, i did a little editing of my earlier reply...

What is the condition of the female threaded area in the bottom of the housing?
If you can get the rod tightly fit in the bottom of the filter housing, the fix might be a simple as giving the threads on the top of the rod and the star nut a good cleaning with a wire brush, and a little spray lube, so that there's less friction on top and the rod stays in place when you remove the nut. If that doesn't work, you may be able to try some loctite or jb weld to permanently install that rod in the bottom of the housing.

 

[Randrx2]

Sorry, i did a little editing of my earlier reply...

What is the condition of the female threaded area in the bottom of the housing?
If you can get the rod tightly fit in the bottom of the filter housing, the fix might be a simple as giving the threads on the top of the rod and the star nut a good cleaning with a wire brush, and a little spray lube, so that there's less friction on top and the rod stays in place when you remove the nut. If that doesn't work, you may be able to try some loctite or jb weld to permanently install that rod in the bottom of the housing.

Haha! Good idea!

 

[Richard320]

The pool guys ain't lying. If the female threads in the base are stripped out and/or the male threads are stripped or eroded, you do have a bomb waiting to blow. It may seem low pressure, only 15 psi.... but 15 psi applied to several hundred square inches is a lot of force! Have you ever watched a guy mount a tubeless tire? That big bang when the bead seats is usually under 10 psi!

If the lid blows, one, it may cause damage, and two, if you aren't home to do something it could empty the pool until the pump sucks air and gets destroyed as well as flooding who knows what.

You're going to have to repair that base somehow --like drilling oversize and installing an insert -- or replace the filter. I wouldn't trust epoxy against that kind of pressure.

 

[SemperFly]

I wouldn't trust epoxy against that kind of pressure

Good points, Richard!

If either the male or female threads are damaged, I wouldn't advise the loctite/jbweld repair. That was just recommended for if the friction on top was overcoming the friction on the bottom, causing the rod to unscrew from the base every time.

 

[eco-help]

The pool guys ain't lying. If the female threads in the base are stripped out and/or the male threads are stripped or eroded, you do have a bomb waiting to blow. It may seem low pressure, only 15 psi.... but 15 psi applied to several hundred square inches is a lot of force! Have you ever watched a guy mount a tubeless tire? That big bang when the bead seats is usually under 10 psi!

If the lid blows, one, it may cause damage, and two, if you aren't home to do something it could empty the pool until the pump sucks air and gets destroyed as well as flooding who knows what.

You're going to have to repair that base somehow --like drilling oversize and installing an insert -- or replace the filter. I wouldn't trust epoxy against that kind of pressure.

Thank you, I didn't realize the danger.
I don't believe the base is damaged. I don't believe either end of the rod is damaged. I believe the top female thread is holding better than the bottom one, for reasons I am not clear on (maybe different materials)
I do not see any damage in either male thread.
I do not feel there is any cross-thread condition when I either screw the tie rod into the base, or when I screw the top housing into the top of thread.
Neither contractor actually took the filter apart to investigate, they were there to quote for new automation/replacement of pool pump & SWG. One said it's discontinued and warned about the danger, the other one said the newer filters are much safer and also mentioned the danger of the existing one.
Leaving me scratching my head and posting here

 

[eco-help]

Good points, Richard!

If either the male or female threads are damaged, I wouldn't advise the loctite/jbweld repair. That was just recommended for if the friction on top was overcoming the friction on the bottom, causing the rod to unscrew from the base every time.

ok, I will first need to be sure nothing is damaged an then maybe try the solution..