Filter capacity?

The other pump labeled as 3.7 kw might be closer to 5 kw depending how the manufacturer labels the motor.

It’s always confusing, so you should ask Pentair and Leeson to tell you the actual input power for that pump.

Also, ask Leeson to explain the proper way to test the motor for power, power factor, voltage and current and how close the current on each leg should be.

Also ask about the resistance test for the windings and what the ohm values should be.
 
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The kW is usually = to the total HP, not the label HP.

2.2 total HP = 2.2 kw.

2.2 x 0.1350 = $0.297 (per hour) x 24 hours = $7.128 (per day) x 365 days = $2,601.72 per year

Per week = $50.03. Per month = $216.81.

Also, the volts x amps = watts.

230 x 10.4 = 2,392 watts.
Are you saying that I should not be using the 3.7 KW shown on the label of the outdoor pool pump to calculate the cost of running that pump? If not, what do I use for kW on that pump in my formula?
 
The other pump labeled as 3.7 kw might be closer to 5 kw depending how the manufacturer labels the motor.

It’s always confusing, so you should ask Pentair and Leeson to tell you the actual input power for that pump.
I am saying that I do not know the correct value to use for the power.

It is probably somewhere between 3.7 kw and 5 kw.

I recommend that you ask Pentair and Leeson as they should know the correct value.

Hopefully, they will both give the same value.

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10 feet of 2" pipe (equivalent) creates about 5.76 feet of head loss at 180 GPM, which is about 2.49 psi.

10 feet of 3" pipe (equivalent) creates about 0.801 feet of head loss at 180 GPM, which is about 0.347 psi.

The difference will be about 4.96 feet of head or 2.14 psi, so the flow will improve by about 2 GPM.
There is only a stretch of about 40" of 2" pipe (plus the 2" T and two 2" elbows) before it connects to 3" pipe in the rest of the return line. If it's not even 10' of 2" pipe that we would be replacing, then I assume any gain in flow will be even less. If we're only picking up about 2 gpm in flow by replacing the 2" pipe with 3" pipe, then it hardly seems worth it. Maybe when it was installed years ago they had some 2" pipe, but ran out of 3" pipe and just decided to make it work.... knowing the impact on the flow rate would not be that great. This seems like maybe something we should address when we are having other (major) work done on the system, i.e., when we are doing system modifications next spring, but not something to be too concerned about now. Make sense?
 
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There is only a stretch of about 40" of 2" pipe (plus the 2" T and two 2" elbows) before it connects to 3" pipe in the rest of the return line.
40" = 3.3 feet.

Each 90 is equivalent to 5.2 feet and the Ts are equal to 3.5 or 10.3 feet of pipe depending on the orientation.

3.3 + 10.4 + 10.3 + 3.5 = 27.5 feet of pipe using the "Equivalent Length Method.

If the system has a curve of 0.00246914X^2 (80 feet of head at 180 GPM) with the 27.5’ of 2” PVC, the new system will be 0.00246914 - 0.00048765 + 0.00002472 = 0.002X^2.

That puts the operating point at about 190 at 72.2 feet, so an extra 10 GPM.

In any case, the velocity at 180 GPM is about 18.4, which is above the 10 feet per second limit.

I would replace the 2" line.

The flow will probably increase about 5 to 10 GPM.


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If the $500 cost to clean each heater is in addition to the service contract cost it is laughable. Most HVAC clean and check costs are normally between $100-120 with many companies offering a clean and check at $70-80 to get their foot in the door.
So.... I asked another pool company (the one we used for the pump repair) about servicing our pool heaters and this is the response I received:

"We charge $750.00 to clean and inspect the heater. 2 men and 3 hours. We also do winter tune ups which include cleaning the heater for around $900.00 (we replace all gaskets/orings in the system as part of it). We recommend yearly cleaning/inspection of the heater."

If $500 was laughable, this is hysterical, right?
 
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