FC Very Slow to Come Down Following SLAM

RyeRock23

Member
May 4, 2022
22
Indianapolis, IN
First timer here. CYA is 50 so I shocked with liquid chlorine to 20 ppm FC. Pool is crystal clear, no CC now and less than 1 overnight FC loss. It's been 2 days since I stopped adding Chlorine and FC is at 9.5. Pool has been uncovered for half of this time (required to cover overnight). It's been pretty overcast so I imagine I'm not getting as much UV exposure as I would on a sunny day. We've had a little rain. Is this normal for FC to take this long to come back down? My salt cell has been off since I started the process. I assume it doesn't make sense to turn it back on until I get closer to a normal range.
 
The average pool consumes 2-4 ppm daily.
After tomorrow’s loss you’ll probably be in target range & just let the swg take over.
Do u plan on raising cya? 50ppm is a little low for a swg in the middle of the summer.
 
The average pool consumes 2-4 ppm daily.
After tomorrow’s loss you’ll probably be in target range & just let the swg take over.
Do u plan on raising cya? 50ppm is a little low for a swg in the middle of the summer.
Thanks for the response. That makes sense... On a sunny hot day with 2-4 people swimming in it we typically experience FC loss of around 2ppm. I guess that explains why we aren't losing much without anyone in the pool.

I put 2 gallons of liquid chlorine stabilizer (30ppm rise for 10,000gal) a couple months ago. Due to splash out and evaporation we've had to add water numerous times which I imagine is diluting our CYA down. Our SWG holds our FC level very well when set at only 10% when pool has limited use, 20% with moderate use and 30% with very heavy use. Therefore, I haven't seen the benefit to keep dumping money in raising the CYA. Maybe I'm misinterpreting CYA, but with a FC loss of only 2ppm and such low settings on the SWG it just hasn't made sense to raise it more.

While on the topic of FC/CYA, when reading through the associated posts that the lower FC min/target for SWG is more of a guess when compared to the higher numbers with liquid chlorine which seems a bit concerning. This has been challenging for me to know where I fall using a SWG now that my CYA has dropped to 50ppm. 60 and below is not recommended for SWG and 50/below are only on the liquid chlorine chart. Not sure if I should go by the min/target for the liquid chlorine chart...

Hopefully you haven't been staying out of the pool because your FC is at 9.5 currently. It's safe up until SLAM level for your CYA.
Interesting. Yes, we have stayed out of the pool due to the high chlorine levels. I guess I need to go back and reread the SLAM page because I didn't see mention of swimming during that time.
 
Minimum for swg pools is 4.5% of cya but no matter how low cya is, 2ppm is the lowest fc should ever go in any pool.
Minimum is not a goal - it is to be avoided. Targeting 4ppm or a little above will give u a good buffer against falling below minimum incase of heavy bather load or environmental conditions.
If u wish to follow the liquid chlorine chart that’s fine too.
As mentioned- it is safe to swim w/ fc levels anywhere between minimum and slam level for your cya so long as u can see the bottom of the deep end of the pool for safety purposes.
 
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Minimum for swg pools is 4.5% of cya but no matter how low cya is, 2ppm is the lowest fc should ever go in any pool.
Minimum is not a goal - it is to be avoided. Targeting 4ppm or a little above will give u a good buffer against falling below minimum incase of heavy bather load or environmental conditions.
If u wish to follow the liquid chlorine chart that’s fine too.
As mentioned- it is safe to swim w/ fc levels anywhere between minimum and slam level for your cya so long as u can see the bottom of the deep end of the pool for safety purposes.
So I retested CYA today because out of all the tests, it's the one that I never feel confident in the results. I researched the available info about CYA testing here on TFP and followed these instructions: CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test . Doing so resulted in approximately 60ppm. This number makes more sense to me because when I added liquid stabilizer a couple months ago it was 1 gal = 30ppm/10,000gallons. I poured 2 gallons (spread out by a couple weeks) into a 7610gal pool.

Do you happen to know why 60ppm CYA is not recommended for SWG? In addition does CYA number impact when you need to SLAM? For example, do you need to consider a SLAM if your FC falls below the minimum for your CYA or only if the number goes to zero regardless of CYA?
 
So I retested CYA today because out of all the tests, it's the one that I never feel confident in the results. I researched the available info about CYA testing here on TFP and followed these instructions: CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test . Doing so resulted in approximately 60ppm. This number makes more sense to me because when I added liquid stabilizer a couple months ago it was 1 gal = 30ppm/10,000gallons. I poured 2 gallons (spread out by a couple weeks) into a 7610gal pool.

Do you happen to know why 60ppm CYA is not recommended for SWG? In addition does CYA number impact when you need to SLAM? For example, do you need to consider a SLAM if your FC falls below the minimum for your CYA or only if the number goes to zero regardless of CYA?
You only need to SLAM when is there something other than sunlight consuming FC more than normal, or you see algae.

The CYA recommendations are just that. Some people have reported a higher level can work a bit better at protecting the chlorine when using a SWG. In my opinion the wording should be changed to expand the range to include the higher CYA levels but keep the lower limit from liquid. Then people don’t freak out that their CYA is too low. There’s no need to increase it but you might squeeze out a little savings by doing so.
 
2 gallons of liquid stabilizer would have added 97ppm of cya to your pool
78151C02-BB3D-4A32-B47A-4F76F0D91CC9.png
Cya can degrade a little overtime (5-10ppm/month) but is mostly depleted through water replacement.
If u didn’t fully rinse out the bottles multiple times, shake & pour that in the pool- it’s possible you didn’t get the full amount of cya out of each bottle.

Swg cya recommended levels-
Swg’s produce chlorine slowly over an extended period of time - the higher cya protects the fc from the sun as it is being produced so it doesn’t get consumed immediately.
This allows you to retain more of the fc that your swg produces - enabling less run time which means a longer cell life. All swg’s have a finite cell life (generally 8-10k hrs @ 100%)
The separate reasoning of a lower fc for swg pools at different cya levels than manually chlorinated pools has to do with the high concentration of fc within the cell which the pool water passes through when the cell is on - the thought is that since this happens the bulk of the water doesn’t need to be as high in fc to prevent algae etc. If you don’t feel comfortable with that , following the manually chlorinated side if the chart is just fine.
I personally aim for 10% of my cya as my target. This gives me wiggle room for environmental factors without risking falling below minimum for my cya.

If u have fallen below minimum for your cya
Or
gone lower than 2ppm if you have a lower cya than referenced anywhere on the chart
There’s a possibility that you have algae/organics in the water.
To rule this out you can do an
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
(if u fail —> SLAM)
UNLESS u see visible algae or have cc’s above .5 ppm in which case you would just immediately proceed to the SLAM Process
 
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2 gallons of liquid stabilizer would have added 97ppm of cya to your pool
View attachment 434334
Cya can degrade a little overtime (5-10ppm/month) but is mostly depleted through water replacement.
If u didn’t fully rinse out the bottles multiple times, shake & pour that in the pool- it’s possible you didn’t get the full amount of cya out of each bottle.

Swg cya recommended levels-
Swg’s produce chlorine slowly over an extended period of time - the higher cya protects the fc from the sun as it is being produced so it doesn’t get consumed immediately.
This allows you to retain more of the fc that your swg produces - enabling less run time which means a longer cell life. All swg’s have a finite cell life (generally 8-10k hrs @ 100%)
The separate reasoning of a lower fc for swg pools at different cya levels than manually chlorinated pools has to do with the high concentration of fc within the cell which the pool water passes through when the cell is on - the thought is that since this happens the bulk of the water doesn’t need to be as high in fc to prevent algae etc. If you don’t feel comfortable with that , following the manually chlorinated side if the chart is just fine.
I personally aim for 10% of my cya as my target. This gives me wiggle room for environmental factors without risking falling below minimum for my cya.

If u have fallen below minimum for your cya
Or
gone lower than 2ppm if you have a lower cya than referenced anywhere on the chart
There’s a possibility that you have algae/organics in the water.
To rule this out you can do an
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
(if u fail —> SLAM)
UNLESS u see visible algae or have cc’s above .5 ppm in which case you would just immediately proceed to the SLAM Process
The liquid conditioner I used said up to 32ppm/10,000 gallons. I started around 5ppm. At the time, my pool installer had told us our pool was around 13,000 gallons which it turns out he was way wrong. By chance, I was on the manufacturer's website looking at some information about our fiberglass pool and came across the specs which indicate our pool size/model is actual 7610 gallons. I share this because it makes a huge difference in where I was going with my CYA and where I could have ended up (too high). I was already 2 months into maintaining our new pool at the time I learned of the gallon difference. Using 7610 gallons, it should have raised the CYA by 84ppm (I did rinse the bottles several times) + the 5ppm or so which would have put us around 90ppm (higher than I wanted to be, but did not know it at the time). All that being said I'm getting between 45-60 CYA readings with my Taylor kit now.

Out of curiosity I did what I believe many advise against here and took a sample to the pool store yesterday. Their results were spot on for ph and alkalinity. For CYA they got 54 (I had just got 60) so we're close there. I got 7 FC and they got 6.27 FC. For CC I got 0.5 or less using the method in which each drop = 0.5 and they got 0.46 CC. They advised me to address the 0.46 CC. I voiced I had just shocked to 20ppm 5 days ago which was determined with a CYA reading of 45 at the time (I rounded up to 50). My FC held overnight to less than 1 loss, no algae and CC of less than 0.5 so I began letting the FC come down. Pool store recommended using Fresh and Clear non-chlorine shock. I purchased 1 packet (1 pound) of it and put it in the pool. Tested water almost 24 hours later and FC now says 9 with a tinge of pink when testing the CC which goes away after adding one drop that equals 0.5ppm/drop. Took water sample to pool store again to compare results with pool stores results yesterday and my testing. Pool store says 6.68 FC and 6.68 TC so no CC. But, why is their FC 2.5ppm lower than my reading from same spot and same time? In addition, today they are reading only 24 CYA vs. their reading of 54 CYA yesterday :unsure:. They said most CYA sits within the top 6 inches of the water and is VERY sample dependent (depth, timing, location, circulation, etc.) so it's more likely the 54 CYA reading from the day before is correct.

I tend to make things more difficult than they need to be because I lean towards wanting things to be an exact science. The bottom line is I don't want anyone getting sick swimming in my pool. However, I'm feeling overwhelmed with the inconsistent CYA and CC readings. I've tested multiple times for CC using the method in which 1 drop = 0.2ppm and never have achieved a result I feel confident in because it keeps looking a shade of pink, but when I test at the same time using 1 drop = 0.5ppm it goes clear. Obviously it's ideal to have no CC in the water which could be an answer, but would likely require me to SLAM every week which doesn't really make sense.

*EDIT: Forgot to add from Taylor's website: "If monopersulfate is present in the sample it will react with DPD #3, artificially increasing the combined chlorine reading." "Shocking" Interference I suppose this could be the reason of me getting a slight tinge of pink trying to test for CC since I had used Potassium peroxymonosulfate.
 
Last edited:
The liquid conditioner I used said up to 32ppm/10,000 gallons. I started around 5ppm. At the time, my pool installer had told us our pool was around 13,000 gallons which it turns out he was way wrong. By chance, I was on the manufacturer's website looking at some information about our fiberglass pool and came across the specs which indicate our pool size/model is actual 7610 gallons. I share this because it makes a huge difference in where I was going with my CYA and where I could have ended up (too high). I was already 2 months into maintaining our new pool at the time I learned of the gallon difference. Using 7610 gallons, it should have raised the CYA by 84ppm (I did rinse the bottles several times) + the 5ppm or so which would have put us around 90ppm (higher than I wanted to be, but did not know it at the time). All that being said I'm getting between 45-60 CYA readings with my Taylor kit now.

Out of curiosity I did what I believe many advise against here and took a sample to the pool store yesterday. Their results were spot on for ph and alkalinity. For CYA they got 54 (I had just got 60) so we're close there. I got 7 FC and they got 6.27 FC. For CC I got 0.5 or less using the method in which each drop = 0.5 and they got 0.46 CC. They advised me to address the 0.46 CC. I voiced I had just shocked to 20ppm 5 days ago which was determined with a CYA reading of 45 at the time (I rounded up to 50). My FC held overnight to less than 1 loss, no algae and CC of less than 0.5 so I began letting the FC come down. Pool store recommended using Fresh and Clear non-chlorine shock. I purchased 1 packet (1 pound) of it and put it in the pool. Tested water almost 24 hours later and FC now says 9 with a tinge of pink when testing the CC which goes away after adding one drop that equals 0.5ppm/drop. Took water sample to pool store again to compare results with pool stores results yesterday and my testing. Pool store says 6.68 FC and 6.68 TC so no CC. But, why is their FC 2.5ppm lower than my reading from same spot and same time? In addition, today they are reading only 24 CYA vs. their reading of 54 CYA yesterday :unsure:. They said most CYA sits within the top 6 inches of the water and is VERY sample dependent (depth, timing, location, circulation, etc.) so it's more likely the 54 CYA reading from the day before is correct.

I tend to make things more difficult than they need to be because I lean towards wanting things to be an exact science. The bottom line is I don't want anyone getting sick swimming in my pool. However, I'm feeling overwhelmed with the inconsistent CYA and CC readings. I've tested multiple times for CC using the method in which 1 drop = 0.2ppm and never have achieved a result I feel confident in because it keeps looking a shade of pink, but when I test at the same time using 1 drop = 0.5ppm it goes clear. Obviously it's ideal to have no CC in the water which could be an answer, but would likely require me to SLAM every week which doesn't really make sense.

*EDIT: Forgot to add from Taylor's website: "If monopersulfate is present in the sample it will react with DPD #3, artificially increasing the combined chlorine reading." "Shocking" Interference I suppose this could be the reason of me getting a slight tinge of pink trying to test for CC since I had used Potassium peroxymonosulfate.
Yep, using MPS messes up stuff. You really didn’t need it. It’s also very common to have 0.5ppm of CC as the chlorine is doing it’s job. TFP considers anything less than 0.5CC as being zero.

You can see why the pool store testing isn’t trusted with the CYA test result. Their explanation for the difference is bunk.

Also note that ALL testing has an error tolerance. You can test the same sample of water twice and can get slightly different readings. I think you’re trying to be exact where exactness isn’t possible or necessary.
 

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PoolMath
Shows 1 gal of liquid stabilizer = 37ppm/10k gal.
So pretty much on par.
I don’t care for doing the toilet paper math as listed on the packages of products & stick with poolmath.
Glad u have your pool volume more dialed in as an accurate volume is needed for correctly dosing.
As for the pool store,
you could visit 3 different ones w/ 3 exact same samples & get 3 different sets of results & recommendations of products to buy.
Its best to just avoid this & use the best test kit available (which is the one u have)
Trust your results-
The MPS was unnecessary, the sun ☀️ will burn off that small amount of cc’s & yes, it skews cc results (which is ironically the thing u we’re trying to remedy by using it)
If u notice, there is no listing for it in Poolmath, this means U can’t predict it’s effects on other parameters before using.
there’s also no way to test for it, only eliminate its interference on other tests (fc & cc) with an additional reagent.
For these 2 reasons I have never used it.
Along with many reports of irritation associated with it’s use.
 
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