Faulty chlorinator or salt cell?

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pokmo

0
Jul 10, 2018
40
Australia
Hi

I've noticed that our cholorinator has only been around 30% effective recently based on the reading on the builtin meter. Does anyone know how to tell if the fault lies within the cholorinator or the salt cell? The cell has 4 plates and two of the plates stay clean whilst the other 2 plates have calcium build-up. Does this mean only two of the plates are functioning? The cell was cleaned with acid only last week.

I've tested the voltages across the three output connectors on the chlorinator box:

IMG_20210218_161655.jpg

I'm not sure if these voltage levels are indicative of the health of the two units.

Any advice appreciated.

Thanks
 
1. Chlorine Output LEDs – Fig.2

If the correct salt level is in the pool then all 10 lights will illuminate. Each light represents 10% chlorine output. If all lights are not illuminated then a higher salt level will be required. Make sure all salt is dissolved properly before adding more. The chlorine control, 2 in fig. 2, will increase or decrease the chlorine output to suit your chlorine demand. If all of the indicator lights flash then there is a water fault problem.

2. Chlorine Control – Fig. 2

The chlorine controller determines the amount of chlorine production. By simply turning the control clockwise you increase the chlorine output and by turning the control anti-clockwise you decrease the chlorine output. Do not force the control past its stop as this will damage the unit and void warranty.

3. High Salt Light – Fig 2

This light is a red warning indicator and will only illuminate when the salt level in the swimming pool is higher than 4500 parts per million. If this light is on, decrease the output by turning the chlorine control, 2 in fig.2., anticlockwise until the high salt (red light) goes off and the 10 chlorine output LEDs are on. 1 in fig 2. If this light is the only one illuminated then the unit has gone into over temperature cutout and will reset once back to normal running temperature e.

4. Polarity Light – Fig 2

The polarity light is the first indicator light, 10% in the chlorine output array, 4 in fig.2. This light will alternate between orange and green every reversing cycle, 4-12 hours. Factory setting is a 12 hour cycle.


 
Test strips are not super reliable.

You should check the salinity a different way.

What is the salinity measurement?

How old is the cell?

Check the voltage from red to black when the unit is first powered on and watch it for a few minutes to see if it changes.
 
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