False Low flow light pentair IC40

Randy,

I am not sure we have proved anything, as the flow light was also green... :scratch:

What we were trying to prove is that with a "false" red flow light, that the "Cell" light was on... indicating the cell was making chlorine.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Yes I agree, about all i probably proved is...If the flow light is Green The cell is probably generating chlorine.

For what ever reason it seems to be working fine for that last several hours.
It has been showing low flow "most" of the time for the last week at least.
 
Randy,

As a test, start lowering the % of output and see if the flow light turns red again.. It should not make any difference, but who know with your cell???

Maybe just smacking the cell will make it go good or bad.. Not what they teach good techs, but it has worked a few times... :mrgreen:

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
At 100% with all LEDs solid, the Cell light should be on for 265 seconds and then off for 35 seconds and then back on for 265 seconds etc.
Its 100% with all led Solid and is on/off for about 265/35 cycle, I didn't use a stop watch....
Be aware that you should not operate with a jumped flow switch.

If you get a buildup of chlorine gas and hydrogen gas, it can explode.
I have already un-jumpered the flow switch as it wasn't making any difference.
 
Randy,

As a test, start lowering the % of output and see if the flow light turns red again.. It should not make any difference, but who know with your cell???

Maybe just smacking the cell will make it go good or bad.. Not what they teach good techs, but it has worked a few times... :mrgreen:

Thanks,

Jim R.
It seemed to work fine for alot longer than usual yesterday, 4-5 hours.
I did reduce to out put down to 80% and then 60%, there was no immediate impact however a half hour later I saw the red flow light come on. Not sure how or why that could cause it. Maybe the cell electronics are sensitive to higher voltage, and running at higher put is drawing down the transformer voltage just a little?
As stated the voltage to the cell 40.3, Max is supposed to be 39, but that is not very high.

I did have good fortune as a friend of mine hated his salt pool and converted back to chlorine tablets. He saved and gave me his IC40 yesterday. I just installed it and everything is normal again. One noteworthy observation, with this new (used) cell the flow light goes Green within seconds of the pump starting, with my flakey cell, it would take 5-10 minutes for the red flow light to turn green.

Thanks to everyone for their support and help in this. I think it's pretty clear I have a problem with my cell control board.
 
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Randy,

On my system, when the cell light is off (Not producing chlorine) I measure about 40 volts DC.. When the cell light turns on (Cell producing chlorine) the voltage drops to about 35 VDC..

How can someone NOT like a saltwater pool?? Your friend is generous and crazy... :mrgreen:

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Randy,

On my system, when the cell light is off (Not producing chlorine) I measure about 40 volts DC.. When the cell light turns on (Cell producing chlorine) the voltage drops to about 35 VDC..

How can someone NOT like a saltwater pool?? Your friend is generous and crazy... :mrgreen:

Thanks,

Jim R.
That's what I told him when he said "chlorine Tabs are just so much easier"... Well I disagree, but in this case THANK YOU!

I do think the economics for salt cells are not much better than buying Cl tabs.
We seem to spend $150/year on "Cells" ($600 every 4 year) and another $100/year on salt. I know we are not supposed to have to add that much salt back in, But..... we get enough heavy rain often enough to overflow the pool that we end up adding 10-15 bags of salt every year.
 
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