Extending Heater Electrical Feed?

[rscam]

Im replacing my gas heater and need to move the electrical feed in order to line up with the new heaters connection point. There is enough slack in the wire but I will need to modify the 3/4" NM conduit a bit (about 18" higher and 6" over, see pics for reference ) It's an easy enough job for me but I'm not sure how to "glue" the conduit extension pieces while there is wire inside without getting solvent on the wires and compromising them. Im trying to avoid having to pull new wires if I can avoid it. Is there a "trick" to doing this?

Thanks for the help
Ron

 

[1poolman1]

Im replacing my gas heater and need to move the electrical feed in order to line up with the new heaters connection point. There is enough slack in the wire but I will need to modify the 3/4" NM conduit a bit (about 18" higher and 6" over, see pics for reference ) It's an easy enough job for me but I'm not sure how to "glue" the conduit extension pieces while there is wire inside without getting solvent on the wires and compromising them. Im trying to avoid having to pull new wires if I can avoid it. Is there a "trick" to doing this?

Thanks for the help
Ron

A bit of PVC cement won't cause issues with the wiring if it gets on it. Be sure to replace the cover on that pulling elbow.

 

[Ahultin]

It's an easy enough job for me but I'm not sure how to "glue" the conduit extension pieces while there is wire inside without getting solvent on the wires and compromising them.

Looks like you panel is close, can you tape a pull string to the end of the wire and pull it back to the panel enough to glue your joint then pull the wire back?

Im trying to avoid having to pull new wires if I can avoid it. Is there a "trick" to doing this?

Im replacing my gas heater and need to move the electrical feed in order to line up with the new heaters connection point.

I would make life easier and use liquid-tite for the final connection instead of hard pipe.
Remove pull elbow
Add a single gang box
BELL PSB37550GY Single-Gang Weatherproof Three 1/2 in. or 3/4 in. Threaded Outlets, 2 in, Gray Amazon.com
Short whip of liquid-tite with a straight connector on the box end and elbow at the heater. Southwire 1/2 in. x 6 ft. Ultratite Liquidtight Flexible Non-Metallic PVC Conduit Whip 58004507 - The Home Depot

Also, if you are doing the Gas connections, your former sediment trap was improperly installed. I would fix that and add a full port shutoff valve as of I recall you upsized the heater to a 336k btu unit.

 

[rscam]

A bit of PVC cement won't cause issues with the wiring if it gets on it. Be sure to replace the cover on that pulling elbow.

Thanks poolman

 

[rscam]

Looks like you panel is close, can you tape a pull string to the end of the wire and pull it back to the panel enough to glue your joint then pull the wire back?



I would make life easier and use liquid-tite for the final connection instead of hard pipe.
Remove pull elbow
Add a single gang box
BELL PSB37550GY Single-Gang Weatherproof Three 1/2 in. or 3/4 in. Threaded Outlets, 2 in, Gray Amazon.com
Short whip of liquid-tite with a straight connector on the box end and elbow at the heater. Southwire 1/2 in. x 6 ft. Ultratite Liquidtight Flexible Non-Metallic PVC Conduit Whip 58004507 - The Home Depot

Also, if you are doing the Gas connections, your former sediment trap was improperly installed. I would fix that and add a full port shutoff valve as of I recall you upsized the heater to a 336k btu unit.

Ahultin
This is super helpful. Thanks for the idea (pulling wires back) I will try that. Regarding the single gang, do you Invision that attached to the heater with a whip to the stub up, or attached to stub up with whip to the heater? Sounds like you meant for it to be attached to the stub up. If so, would I need to support the box somehow or is it ok to just leave it "floating"?

Regarding the gas. I appreciate u remembering my prior post. So technically I'm not up sizing (prior heater was 350 this one is actually a bit smaller at 336) but I was concerned about the gas pressure because the Raypak seems to "want" higher incoming pressure than my old Hayward did. To that end, please take a look at what I did (see pics). Let me know what you think about my new sediment trap configuration and also the valve I installed. If you think there is a better size/type of valve to use (and could provide a link), or anything else that could help, I would appreciate it. I'd rather change it out now before i do the final hookups.

 

[Ahultin]

attached to stub up with whip to the heater

This one. Since it will be close enough to the ground you aren't likely to need additional support.

 

[rscam]

This one. Since it will be close enough to the ground you aren't likely to need additional support.

Awesome, thank you. Regarding the gas cock, you just mean a less restrictive 3/4" valve right? Not to have the valve on the 1-1/4" side?

 

[1poolman1]

Ahultin
This is super helpful. Thanks for the idea (pulling wires back) I will try that. Regarding the single gang, do you Invision that attached to the heater with a whip to the stub up, or attached to stub up with whip to the heater? Sounds like you meant for it to be attached to the stub up. If so, would I need to support the box somehow or is it ok to just leave it "floating"?

Regarding the gas. I appreciate u remembering my prior post. So technically I'm not up sizing (prior heater was 350 this one is actually a bit smaller at 336) but I was concerned about the gas pressure because the Raypak seems to "want" higher incoming pressure than my old Hayward did. To that end, please take a look at what I did (see pics). Let me know what you think about my new sediment trap configuration and also the valve I installed. If you think there is a better size/type of valve to use (and could provide a link), or anything else that could help, I would appreciate it. I'd rather change it out now before i do the final hookups.

There should be no problem with the ball valve you have installed though there are some that are less restrictive. They are called full-port ball valves, a picture from Home Depot is below. You can see the difference in the size of the body compared to the one in your picture.
A true gas-line sediment trap would have had the line from the supply higher than the heater valve inlet, there would be a tee that directs gas to the heater gas valve and the trap would be below that so that the gas was actually flowing down, not horizontal, allowing debris to gravity-fall into the trap. At least 50% of the heaters I have seen have been plumbed the way your pictures show with no issues. There are also many that don't even have that trap that also have no issues.

 

[Ahultin]

To that end, please take a look at what I did (see pics). Let me know what you think about my new sediment trap configuration and also the valve I installed.

Looks good. As @1poolman1 mentioned, in a perfect world supply would travel down to the trap but the biggest thing is you changed direction which your old trap did not do.
The valve you placed is a reduced bore but if you don't have supply issues once you fire it up (pickup a cheap manometer to test static supply before firing it the first time) I'd be inclined to leave it.

 

[rscam]

You guys are great. Thanks for all the advice. I bought a full port valve for the gas line to replace the smaller one and am in process of connecting the electric as recommended. Will post pics for others to see once I'm done.