Erratic readings from Aqua Rite SWG

[mick1putt]

I've got a problem similar to many other posts, but somehow not finding the answer, or not understanding.

My Aqua Rite SWG with T Cell-15 has started giving erratic readings that jump around but mostly; salt around 1300, and 0 instant salinity (I've not tested the salt level, but it's been fine all summer, no reason to believe it's suddenly dropped); voltage 30+ and no amps, not producing chlorine; temp seems to be correct 87-90; and desired output seems to be correct and changes when I move the dial.

The readout keeps jumping to metric, I'll reset it, and the next time I check it's back to metric. Sometimes I hear a faint click, the lights flash, and it will give "normal" numbers for a minute or so, acts like it's producing chlorine, but then goes whacky again.

System is 10 years old, I replaced the cell in 2014, and replaced the thermistor around that same time but can't remember when.

So is my cell bad, or is it a problem with the board?

 

[JamesW]

Probably the display board is not making good contact with the gold pins from the back board.

Remove and reinstall the display board.

How To: Replace an AquaRite Display PCB - YouTube

 

[mick1putt]

Thanks I'll try that.

 

[Brentr]

If that does not work you may want to recalibrate.
How to Recalibrate?


Move the switch to the Auto position. If the switch is already in the Auto or Super Chlorinate position, move it to Off then back to Auto.
Wait for the relay to click (listen carefully, you will hear it), then push the diagnostics button 5 times to the instant salt level with the minus sign in front.
Wait for the instant salt level to stop moving lower, make sure it is within the range of 2700-3400, then move the switch up to Super Chlorinate then back down to Auto. This saves the instant salt level reading as the new default which, in effect, recalibrates the unit to be able to run normally and chlorinate the pool. "
Hope this helps

 

[mick1putt]

I played around with the board this morning and that seemed to fix it, all the diagnostic numbers seemed reasonable and it was producing chlorine. But---I've been checking every 30 minutes or so, and the instant salinity keeps dropping, now down to 1900. That's a pretty good indication the cell is bad, right?

It's still producing chlorine for the time being, but if I recalibrate, and the salt reading goes to 1900 (the current instant salinity) it will stop. I guess it's inevitable and going to stop eventually anyway.

Should I go ahead and order a new cell?

 

[Brentr]

Do you know what your salt readings was before you got erratic readings? Can you test for salt if not take a water sample to a local pool store and get them to test for salt.

 

[mick1putt]

The salt reading has dropped a couple of times this summer to around 2700, each time I've added a bag or two of salt, and the reading came back up to 3000 or 3100. I've blamed it on a lot of rain, but now I'm second guessing that, and wondering if it isn't the cell slowly going out. I'm sure the salt isn't below 3000, but I guess I need to check it. If ti is the cell going bad, I might find salt level at 4000 given the salt I've been adding.

 

[JamesW]

What are the diagnostic readings?

What are the first 4 of the cell serial number?

What model number is on the cell?

What is the actual salinity as tested by a good test kit such as the K-1766 salt test kit?

 

[mick1putt]

I use K-2006 test kit but don't have salt test kit, will order today.

Right now diagnostic readings are:

2800
87
25.7
4.48
100P
-1900
AL 4
1.40

serial # 3E1424 (early 2014)
T-Cell-15

 

[Brentr]

Mick my swg was acting up much like yours 10 days ago. I recalibrated a few times and now it is working again so possible recalibration again may fix your issue. James may have some other suggestions.

 

[mick1putt]

I forgot to say thanks for the help

Nephews just showed up to swim so I'll leave it alone for a while. I'll recalibrate this evening and report back.

 

[JamesW]

I think that the cell is bad. Check the salinity to be sure. I suspect that it is probably really high.

AL-4 changes the default display from average salt to percent output. This setting got changed due to the bad connection between the display board and the back board creating random signals.

You can change the setting back to AL-0 by going to AL-4 and moving the switch from auto to superchlorinate and back to auto until the reading is AL-0.

 

[RiseNShine]

I agree w James. Check the actual salt level and compare to the readout to be sure. But a 14y.o. cell even with stellar maintenance will eventually fail. IME 14 years is a very long time for a cell to be functional.

But... are you by chance losing any water?

 

[JamesW]

The cell was replaced in 2014.

 

[mick1putt]

Update-- I finally got my K-1766 salt test kit, salt is a little high at 3600 ppm. Diagnostic numbers have remained pretty consistent to what I reported above (salt 2700 ppm) with the exception of instant salinity which ranges from -1900 to -2700.

So, is the cell going bad? Should I go ahead and order one in anticipation of full failure in the near future? Yes, this one was installed 2014.

System runs about 12 hours a day. Is it odd that the average salinity has only changed from 2800 to 2700 in over a week, when the instant salinity reading is typically much lower than that?

I have not done the recalibration for fear of salt reading going too low to produce chlorine, but will do it today and see what happens.

 

[JamesW]

Probably a failing cell. Probably better to wait until spring to get a new one if you're going to close soon.

 

[Bob Jakob]

Has the cell been examined for scale or cleaned if it is scaling?

 

[mick1putt]

Cell looks clean, no sign of scale or any kind of build up.

I don't "close" the pool. Our winters are relatively mild, I just run the pump any time temps are below freezing.

I keep hoping this is just some glitch and it will start working correctly again, but I think it's time to order a new cell. It's time to search the T-Cell-15 vs. generic threads :-?

 

[JamesW]

I agree, it's time for a new cell. The generics are cheaper but might not last as long. I would go with the Hayward.

 

[mick1putt]

I've spent the last hour trying to convince myself one of the generics is as good as the Hayward. I haven't found a clear choice on tfp forum. There are some good reports on Chlorinator Pro CP-15 ($394), and found Calimar ($285) with full 3 yr warranty, and good reviews, but I'm not convinced yet.

I'd love to save $200, and it's not like the Hayward has been so great; this one is only 4 yrs. old, and my first Hayward only lasted 5 yrs.