Equipment Configuration (Existing Pool - New Equipment)

russ0486

Member
Mar 4, 2024
8
Houston, TX
Purchased a house a few months ago that has an older (existing) in-ground concrete pool. The pool was somewhat neglected by previous homeowners so we are working to get it back and running.

The pool itself has no leaks but will need to be redone within a few years. We are waiting to tackle that project, mainly for budgeting and prioritization purposes.

Most of the equipment was older as well (with one exception but will circle back to that later). Due to an addition we are doing on the house, we will need to move the equipment location so we are taking the opportunity to go ahead and upgrade/replace the equipment now rather than moving the existing equipment.

I have calculated the volume of the pool and determined that it is approximately 14k - 15k gallons. Pool equipment will be relatively close to pool (approx. 40' pipe length from skimmer to pump). No spa. Main drain and skimmer lines are apparently tied together underground before getting to the equipment pad.

We asked our pool guy for a proposal to replace the equipment and provide recommendations on equipment size/types. He's recommended the following:
- 420 sq ft cartridge filter
- 1.5 HP main pump (variable speed)
- Rainbow chlorine feeder (unsure on size/model). I understand downsides with chlorine feeders but I am not really looking to go to SWG, at least at this time.

The existing Polaris booster pump and Polaris cleaner are both in good shape and were replaced within the last few years by the previous owners. Therefore, we are looking at reinstalling the current booster pump (Model PB4SQ) and using the pressure-side cleaner.

A heat pump or pool heater is not included in current scope but I'd like the ability to easily add one later. My thoughts are to install a 3-way valve that I can use as a bypass valve down the road plus a "T" downstream of that, where one leg of the T is capped. Later, I can tie into the 3-way valve for the heat pump inlet line and the T for the outlet.

Also - no controls are included now due to simplicity of the current system. When we redo the pool, we may decide to add water features at which time we might add controls. Or perhaps if/when we add a heater.

Lastly, I would like the ability to take flow readings to adjust pump speed and fine-tune operation. I am going to insist on an inline flow meter and my thoughts are that it can be installed after the filter/heater but before the chlorine feeder. I'm also going to insist that the flow meter and chlorine feeder are installed with unions (as I will with all other major equipment).

I have sketched up a preliminary configuration for the pool equipment (see below).

My questions for the forum would be:
1. A 420 sq ft cartridge filter seems large for my pool size but was recommended by pool guy. He said we could go down to 320 sq ft but he would stick to 420. In research, it seems oversizing a pool filter is not necessarily a bad thing and the only downside appears to be additional costs associated with the larger filter. Any concerns other than that?
2. Do I need isolation valves on the return lines in this configuration?
3. Do I need any check valves for the booster pump, or any other locations? I suppose I could have a scenario where my booster pumps go out and I wouldn't be able to isolate it but I'd still be able to operate my main pump and filter, even if the booster pump is not running.
4. I'm assuming 2" line sizes are sufficient for this setup but any concerns or thoughts on that?
5. Any other general concerns with this proposed configuration? I want to keep it as simple/economical as possible while not having any oversights from a maintenance/operation perspective later.

Thanks in advance for input.

Screenshot 2024-03-04 141006.png
 
420 sq ft cartridge filter
This would be suitable for your pool, and a 520 would be even better. Don't go any smaller. It's impossible to have a filter that's too big.

1.5 HP main pump (variable speed)
Get a 3 HP pump. What models are you looking at? The IntelliFlo3 is the gold standard. Do you have automation? If you're planning on staying around, fill out your signature.

Rainbow chlorine feeder
Get a SWCG instead. There is upfront cost, but in the long term it's significantly less expensive than other chlorination methods. The convenience and savings of time, money, and effort are well worth it.

I would like the ability to take flow readings to adjust pump speed and fine-tune operation.
No harm in having one, but it's not really necessary. You'll typically run your pump at the slowest speed that still meets your requirements (such as closing the flow switch on the SWCG and adequate skimmer function) and you don't need a flow meter for that.

installed with unions
Great plan. Also make sure there are no ball valves. Only use high quality diverter valves such as Jandy Never Lube or Pentair.

Any other general concerns with this proposed configuration?
What's the purpose of the isolation valve before the pump inlet? I would install a 3-way diverter between the pump and filter so you can vacuum to waste or pump water out of the pool.
 
What @pjt said. :cool: Other minor notes. The isolation valve will be useful if your pad is below water level. Else probably not. Ideally there will be 10" of clean straight flow before the pump inlet. Valves can make this harder. Heater and associated plumbing are often the biggest thing on the pad. Make sure you allow enough space. What about automation? You can go DIY cheap or commercial pricey, but it really does put you in a whole new world, especially if you intend travel. SWCG same. The cool thing about a 3hp pump (like Intelliflo) is that it can tick over at 1200 rpm or less and still move a lot of water. Super quiet. Long life. Low power (~100W). Yada yada. Next best might be the new Whisperflo VSPs that are 2.6 hp. I liked my old single speed Whisperflo. I think they just melded the SuperFlo power head with the Whisperflow wet end. Should be a good combination.
 
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Most has been answered by @pjt and @generessler but I will add my thoughts on some of the other items.

Living in Houston you will really enjoy the SWCG - I know you stated you wanted to avoid that at this time - but running with chlorine pucks in the Houston heat will drive your CYA high and cause water replacement. This one single item will improve your love for the pool for the long term.
Depending on what area you live, high CH could be an issue over time. do you have a whole house water softener?
Make it easy now and install a SWCG with the 3HP Variable Speed pump recommended by others. You do not need automation now as the some of the newer pumps can wire the SWCG directly to it.

You state the skimmer and main drain are connected underground but you show 2 separate lines at the equipment pad. If you have 2 separate lines at the pad, then put a 3-way between them to balance suction between the 2 areas. Do you have 1 skimmer or 2 and if 2 they may be tied together into one suction line.

I would not bother with the 3-way pending the heater. You will need to cut pipe regardless to insert the Tee for the exit side of the heater. You can add the heater bypass and other pipework at the time you add the heater.

I would add a 3-way before the filter to use as a drain line rather than the hose bib connection. This would be for small drains due to rain. For a full drain or to target more than a 25% drain, it is best to use a submersible pump.

My story - I purchased a house with a pool that used chlorine pucks. I transitioned to liquid chlorine (LC) because I had experienced high CYA and multiple drains of pool. Did the LC for a while (before I came to TFP) and then went with a SWCG - wish I did that years earlier.
Also - if you travel and away for 1 week or more at a time - having a SWCG is a God-send.
 
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@pjt @generessler @HermanTX

Thanks for the info.

Good insight on isolation valve before pump inlet being unnecessary - will remove.

Going to upgrade to 3HP pump and more than likely go with IntelliFlo 3.

Looking hard at going with SWCG as well. Seems like that will be worthwhile based on reading recommendations of this forum.

Looking at the options for the IntelliFlo 3, it has an option to add an I/O module and control other pieces of pump equipment. Considering going this route and controlling booster pump on one output and SWCG on other.
 
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Considering using the optional I/O board on their IntelliFlo3 pump for simple automation.

I am replacing equipment and I don't need automation. Pool only, no spa and no pool heater (at least not yet). I'm thinking about using the I/O module to control a booster pump for pressure side cleaner on the "high-current" side AND a SWCG on the "low-current" side.

I would think I could add a simple sub-panel that has:
1. breaker for IntelliFlo3 pump
2. breaker for booster pump (and wired through the I/O module)
3. breaker for SWCG (and wired through the I/O module)

Anybody done anything similar?
 
Should be a great setup. Congrats for picking up on the need to give the SWCG power only when the pump is on. You don't want to rely solely on the flow switch in most SWCG's. That's a last ditch safety device.
 
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