Elimination of inline chlorine feeder

[sacredcow]

Greetings from frosty (but less so today) Houston, TX!

My old, crusty, and seldom-used inline tablet chlorine feeder was a casualty of this weeks arctic blast. I'm hoping that's the only casualty, but I'll know more about that later. Right now I'm weighing options to make some decisions about how to move forward.

1. I have a Hayward VS pump with the OmniLogic controller. What would I need to purchase to just bite the bullet and change to a salt cell? Obviously the cell, but I'm guessing I need a controller of some type to power it? I can't see how that would directly connect to any of the Omni hardware, but I'm not very knowledgeable about salt equipment.

2. If I decide to just keep on with the bleach setup, can I just get some PVC and fittings and just omit that inline feeder completely? I think I read that there's typically a check valve in those inline feeders- If I just decide to straight-pipe it, do I need to add a check valve?

3. If I decide to replace the inline chlorine feeder... well... that should be pretty straightforward, at least. And I think the only reason I'm considering it is that I'm sure whenever I sell this place some inspector would flag it as a problem.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[ajw22]

Your OmniLogic can control Hayward cells. For your pool get a T-cell 9 or 15. I recommend you get the T-15 cell.

See https://www.hayward-pool.com/assets/documents/pools/pdf/manuals/omnilogic-hlbase-install.pdf

Optional Chlorination Function
The OmniLogic model requires the use of a chlorinator cell and plumbing kit to provide pool chlorination. These items are not included with the OmniLogic and can be purchased separately at your local Hayward dealer. Choose a chlorinator cell model based on the size of your pool; models are shown below. In addition to the chlorinator cell, a plumbing kit (P-KIT) must be purchased. This kit contains the cell unions and flow switch. Refer to pages 9 and 20 for plumbing and wiring instructions.
T-CELL-15 for pools up to 40,000 gallons T-CELL-9 for pools up to 25,000 gallons T-CELL-3 for pools up to 15,000 gallons

 

[Dirk]

If there is a check valve between the old tab feeder and your heater (or filter if you don't have a heater), it's there to protect the heater or filter from the chlorine/acid stew that can emanate from the feeder when the pump is off. Once you eliminate the feeder, you eliminate the need for the check valve. You don't need the same protection from an SWG because the SWG doesn't leech any harmful chemicals once it's powered off (when the flow stops).

If you just replace the feeder with pipe, no check valve is needed for the same reason. That said, if there is a check valve in your plumbing serving some other purpose, then of course it should remain.

You wouldn't get nicked for not having a feeder come inspection time. They are not required equipment. They are not considered safety equipment.

 

[sacredcow]

If there is a check valve between the old tab feeder and your heater (or filter if you don't have a heater), it's there to protect the heater or filter from the chlorine/acid stew that can emanate from the feeder when the pump is off. Once you eliminate the feeder, you eliminate the need for the check valve. You don't need the same protection from an SWG because the SWG doesn't leech any harmful chemicals once it's powered off (when the flow stops).

If you just replace the feeder with pipe, no check valve is needed for the same reason. That said, if there is a check valve in your plumbing serving some other purpose, then of course it should remain.

You wouldn't get nicked for not having a feeder come inspection time. They are not required equipment. They are not considered safety equipment.

That was what I was thinking, re the purpose of the check valve, but just wanted to get a 2nd opinion.

In my experience, inspectors will throw anything at the wall to see if it sticks. I had one once try to insist that I needed to chip out a section of patio so they could "inspect" a brand new drain line I had installed when the original collapsed and caused some flooring damage (it was 50+ years old). I told them to get bent of course, as I would an inspector who said anything about a missing inline chlorinator. But I also like the path of least resistance sometimes.

 

[Dirk]

I hear you. Some here chlorinate with liquid but use their feeder when they leave for a week or two. They then deal with the resulting rise in CYA in various ways. So they're not useless. It's moot. Get rid of the feeder and get the SWG and you'll never look back!

One caveat with the SWG, they don't work in water temps lower than around 50°. A few weeks ago I might have asked you if your pool ever gets that cold where you live. I guess we all know the answer to that question now. I manually dose with liquid about 12 times a year (once a week during the winter). So I don't have or need a feeder. Just making you aware.

If time away in the winter is something for you to think about, there are always the floating feeders (if you remove the one you have). Uh, assuming there is water to float on...

Too soon?

 

[sacredcow]

I hear you. Some here chlorinate with liquid but use their feeder when they leave for a week or two. They then deal with the resulting rise in CYA in various ways. So they're not useless. It's moot. Get rid of the feeder and get the SWG and you'll never look back!

I did the same thing, but always used a floater instead of the inline. Even set at the lowest setting, it always seemed like that inline fed too much.

Going to the pinch a penny this afternoon to see what they say about selling me a SWG setup.