Electric Heat Pump Brand Reccomendations

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davids94

Member
Mar 15, 2019
23
Florida
I would like to install an electric heat pump and looking for a Brand recommendations. Reviewing the forums I see Raypak mentioned for gas but not much in terms of electric?

I'm in N. FL, 12500 Gallon in ground, approximately 425 sq feet, screened enclosure. From my research I'm looking in the 100,000 BTU range. Any other guidance is greatly appreciated, I'm a pool newb.

Thanks!
 
Pentair UltraTemp line gets a lot of mentions. I have a natural gas MasterTemp by Pentair and it’s been reliable so far.
 
I have a Raypak heat pump, an 80,000 BTU model, that was installed a few months ago (December 2018). My brother-in-law has the same unit at his house and it's about 4-5 years old now and going strong. They're constructed very well and do the job, not much else to say about it! My folks have a Pentair UltraTemp 110 on their pool, and it's maybe 7-8 years old - it came with the house they bought. I personally like the construction of the Raypak unit better.

I doubt you could go wrong with either option.
 
kairus00 said:
I have a Raypak heat pump, an 80,000 BTU model, that was installed a few months ago (December 2018). My brother-in-law has the same unit at his house and it's about 4-5 years old now and going strong. They're constructed very well and do the job, not much else to say about it! My folks have a Pentair UltraTemp 110 on their pool, and it's maybe 7-8 years old - it came with the house they bought. I personally like the construction of the Raypak unit better.

I doubt you could go wrong with either option.
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Great, thanks! Out of curiosity, how do these 'talk' to the pump so they only run when the pump is on and achieve the desired temperature? I have a INTELLIPRO VS+SVRS.
 
davids94 said:
Great, thanks! Out of curiosity, how do these 'talk' to the pump so they only run when the pump is on and achieve the desired temperature? I have a INTELLIPRO VS+SVRS.
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Heater has a pressure switch to only operate when pump is on and water is flowing.

Temperature is set on the heater control panel or the automation it is connected to.

Pump has to be on for a heat pump to work effectively. It generates small amounts of BTU's over long time periods. Using a solar pool cover helps reduce water heat loss and lets the HP work more efficiently.
 
davids94 said:
Great, thanks! Out of curiosity, how do these 'talk' to the pump so they only run when the pump is on and achieve the desired temperature? I have a INTELLIPRO VS+SVRS.
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I have the desired temperature set on my heat pump and when the pump turns on the flow switch triggers the unit to turn on as long as the water temp is below the setpoint.

My folks have a Jandy automation system and have their heater connected so they can switch the heat pump from pool settings to spa settings (and vice versa) and they can turn it on/off as well.
 

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davids94 said:
Interesting update, I was looking at the installation manual for one of the Raypak units and see that the Max recommended FC is 3 PPM. This seems unreasonably low. Reasonable CYA in the 40 range corresponds to FC of 5-7. What's the deal?!

View attachment 95192
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The deal is equipment companies follow federal guidelines that are way out of date.
 
davids94 said:
So this is the federal guideline but the equipment is designed to handle more realistic levels?
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Yes. FC and CYA levels make no difference in heater life.

Low pH can kill a heater quickly. You must never let your pool water get below 7. Install a heater bypass valve so that if your water pH is questionable you can bypass the heater and not flow water through the heat exchanger.

You don't have a signature with detail of your pool so I don't know what type of pool you have. CH and CSI levels may be more important for your pool then your heater.
 
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ajw22 said:
Yes. FC and CYA levels make no difference in heater life.

Low pH can kill a heater quickly. You must never let your pool water get below 7. Install a heater bypass valve so that if your water pH is questionable you can bypass the heater and not flow water through the heat exchanger.

You don't have a signature with detail of your pool so I don't know what type of pool you have. CH and CSI levels may be more important for your pool then your heater.
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Thanks! This is very helpful. I have a pebble tec in ground, liquid chlorine / not salt, i keep CH in the 300 range. Candidly, not familiar with CSI. Can you provide some details on why it's important for the heater and how to calculate it?
 
davids94 said:
Thanks! This is very helpful. I have a pebble tec in ground, liquid chlorine / not salt, i keep CH in the 300 range. Candidly, not familiar with CSI. Can you provide some details on why it's important for the heater and how to calculate it?
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CSI calculates how aggressive or corrosive your water chemistry is. Read Calcium Saturation Index

You calculate CSI using PoolMath

You might want to review ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry for TFPC methods.
 
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