Eager for a sparkling oasis, but...

Hi John, I've been in your exact same situation last April. I was sure there was a deer carcas in mine, but it turned out to just be a leaf net pole (ironic) and my double drains.

If you're going to try clarifier, I found super floc to actually do something. One treatment and 24 hrs with the pump off after it's circulated. But while it makes the particles heavier for "capture" it will not necessarily touch leaves and you may still have more than you know. After removing 16 wheelbarrows full, shocking and filtering, I still found another pile of leaves ;) (if you search foreclosed swamp and errant pool service you can see the pics.)

I wouldn't vacuum blind -- you don't really know what you'll be sucking up that could clog you lines or get through to our pump impeller, and little stones or pine needles can jam or wreck it.

Instead, what worked for me was to shock at mustard shock levels or higher, and then to overshoot enough to make sure the chlorine read NEVER drops lwer than the min shock level until your next dose. That speeds things up.

One thing I found helpful was a cheapo leaf eater (about $25) that attaches to a hose, creating a
Venturi style force that draws leaves into the attached net. I used it after I "thought" I'd gotten
everything, and low and behold, came up with another wheelbarrow of leaves.

Note that even if you start to get clear, you will stir up the sediment each time you net stuff, so
you might feel like you're going backwards. Sometimes floc proponents say to just let everything
drop, don't disturb anything, and vacuum to waste. However, IMHO, that's not a great plan with a
foreclosure when you don't know what's been dropped in there -- eg I found a cell battery, stuff
like that. So the flc is more of a test to see what's down there, and if it looks good, then vacuum.
Eg. I also, ironically, found a full bottle of floc down there ;)

When you vacuum to waste, you will only be able to do so until you "run out of water" eg water
level gets too low for suction, so you will have to do so a good few times, refilling, letting it settle
out a bit, then doing it again. I suspect you will also have to stop the process several times to
clean out both the skimmer basket and the pump basket. Be sure to prime the pump after you've
cleaned out the basket, even if it says it's self-priming. Be sure to clean off and possibly lubricate
the pump seal.

Another thing I did when filtering to help clarity was to only have the floor drain open a little and
have the skimmer line open full -- this made the top/surface filtering more powerful to get to a
place where I could see bottom.

If you're generous with the bleach, filtering 24/7, focus the filtering energy toward the top layers,
etc., I believe in a few days you'll be able to see better. Start (while waiting for a kit) to finish,
mine took 12 days, but the most progress was in the last five once I figured out not to let the
chlorine drop. I also had the advantage of cooler weather, so I had better conditions to stay
ahead of the algae, so take my experience with a grain of salt.

Feel free to ask me any questions -- I know how frustrating it can be, but this group here is worth
it's weight in gold.

And since you're starting clean, once you've completey got the pool clear and water balance, you
may wish to consider adding borates as well - you can read up on it and decide. I think it's a good
move especially for a rehab pool because it gives you a little better protection against algae,
fungicides, and to some degree reduces the bug population -- not to mention the aesthetic benefit
of enjoying a super sparkly, soft silky swim ;)

Keep up the good work!
 
P.S. Don't go super crazy with the floc if in fact you get results with it and that excites you. It creates oily Crud that's meant to be vacuumed to waste entirely. But in a foreclosure situation, it's more important to keep the chlorine and filter going, and you may not be vacuuming it all out right away. I only say this to preemptively explain why "more" does not equal "better" with floc, in my opinion. I suspect this is why floc is not generally embraced here ;)
 
I also had a foreclosure pool similar to what swampwoman describes.
Flock helped in my situation as did lots of diligence. I would typically bring up muck/leafs/palm fronds one day (rendering the entire pool a black mess) waiting a day with circulation off, and repeat. Eventually I found a babies high chair and 8x12 carpet (thankfully no baby).

Have you considered draining and refill? I certainly would have gone that route but water table at the time was too high.

Eg. I also, ironically, found a full bottle of floc down there ;)
I can picture it now. Pool store said to throw a bottle of floc into the pool, so the owner did!
 
Great! Looks like I need to get to work! Here are numbers from this morning:

FC - 15
CC - 1.5
CYA - 20-30
TA - 100

Swampwoman, thanks for the detailed information on the floc. I will try to get some today if possible and give it a shot!

One thing I found helpful was a cheapo leaf eater (about $25) that attaches to a hose, creating a
Venturi style force that draws leaves into the attached net. I used it after I "thought" I'd gotten
everything, and low and behold, came up with another wheelbarrow of leaves.

I also did the cheapo leaf eater thing and it helped tons! Only I think I worked it too hard and it broke :( So may have to get another one, also I got a pretty good leaf rake too.

Have you considered draining and refill? I certainly would have gone that route but water table at the time was too high.

Well, I hadn't originally, because I felt pretty confident with the information on this site. But with all the complications it might be worth it! I thought I read somewhere that draining water too much may cause the liner to come detached... Is that right? If so, that would make me worried...
I am anxious to see what kind of treasure I will find!
 
(if you search foreclosed swamp and errant pool service you can see the pics.)

P.S. Swampwoman, your thread was actually one of the first that I read a couple of months back that encouraged me to tackle the problem myself instead of calling the pool guys, especially after the quote they sent me! :-D
 
Well, hopefully my naive DIY journey has not steered you wrong ;) At the time, I was happy to avoid further bills from the pool guy, but in retrospect, even happier to have developed a comfort level with the various aspects of pool maintenance....once educated, then you're free to determine what parts to hire out and what parts to DIY. So it was a very valuable experience for me.

Re: vinyl liner -- here's how I made the decision (haphazardly) whether to drain or not, and questions worth asking when considering this issue:

A) Do I know what I'm doing? - A= Not really, and I'm not a fan of unintended consequences
B) Do I know how the water table behaves here in spring - A= Not really
C) Is there a chance that the liner will float - A= Yes...God only knows what the condition is under there, whether there's any water behind it already, leaks etc.
D) Is there a chance the 12-year-old walls will cave in - A= Yes, though it may be slight, but again, God only knows the condition under there...
E) Can I afford to have a pool builder fix it all if c) or d) occurs? A= Not likely right now amid the 20k of other home improvements I've undertaken
F) Is there a way to safely drain/refill the water - A= Yes, more or less, by using a plastic sheet to separate old water and new water
G) Will that in any way help me clear the muck off the floor of the pool - A= No, it will just trap the muck under the plastic and possibly clog the drain and pipes
H) Does my well have enough capacity to not run dry attempting to fill 22k gal all at one - A= I have no clue, and no desire to find out ;)

We had also had people suggest we put a trash pump in, and aggressively refill while it collected the Crud at the bottom. We weren't confident in our 40 gpm well head on that one, and thought it best to take the past least likely to affect any infrastructure we weren't interested in repairing ;) In retrospect, THANK GOD I didn't do that, because I wouldn't have realized just how much iron I'd have been pumping into the water at that point...This was before I figured out to pre-filter my fill water and to use a bib that had softened water to reduce the iron load to .5 ppm, which by the way, IS STILL TOO MUCH ;)

So those were my reasons for proceeding with shock and awe, not to mention overall water conservation. It's kind of a site specific/personal preference, but I just wouldn't ever drain a vinyl liner pool to empty unless I were planning to replace the liner and/or have other work done. Now that it's CLEAR, however, I might undertake to change out the water using a big plastic sheet with trucked-in, iron-free water one day...but I would do it in a way to not let the water drop.

At any rate, I'm rooting for ya. Here's hoping you'll see mad progress in short order!
 
Take this with a grain of salt...

I have read that Alum Floc is a pretty old school way to deal with suspended particles in the water. Newer more modern polymer clarifiers are preferred - at least among those who use this approach. Also doing Alum Floc - AS I UNDERSTAND IT - requires very specific conditions (pH) that you may or may not be able to meet.

In any case - there is also nothing wrong with a partial drain - this with or without clarifier may get you enough visibility to get the junk out of the pool so you aren't fighting that also. Generally - AS I understand things - you can get away with draining to within 1' of the bottom in the shallow end without a lot of problems. You do need to check on the water table and you do need more expert opinions than mine.
 
Well, it looks like you're on the right track with shock level and getting every foreign object you can out of there. Your CC level seems to pretty consistently be at 1.5, which is high. You'll be able to see the light at the end of the tunnel when it gets down to 0.5 or lower. Just keep it at shock level at all times even past that point because there are several tests you must pass before you can consider the shock process complete.

It's good that you are adding a little extra to keep that FC level high. It will speed things up if you can manage to never let it fall below shock level (listed as about 12 for your pool) at any time during this process.

Feel free to reach out with more questions! I'm no huge expert, but I've been through this process twice now this summer and the advice on this forum WILL get you the results you want!

Charlie
 

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