I have a 4,240 gallon San Juan Cyberlane with Spillover Spa (W 8’6” – L 23’ – D 4’9”) pool with a main drain leak which is on the outside of the main drain, as shown in the picture. This leak detection was done by a professional leak detection company. It’s nearly impossible to find someone who wants to work on a fiberglass pool and was only even able to get one company to give a quote for the repair, which was $5,500. My wife wants to get rid of the pool regardless and it was a firm “no” on $5,500, but said If I could do the repair then fine, lets keep it.
I obviously need to be able to access the drain dry so thought about two different methods to have access to the drain while not completely draining the pool. I have the benefit of a drainage area just off my property about 20 feet from the pool that tells me even after the heaviest rain the water table is about six inches below the bottom of my pool. The water table drops about another two feet in extended dry weather.
The first idea is somewhat simpler and it is to just get a bunch garbage cans, sink them upright in the pool. From there I would brace the pool using plywood against the walls and 2x4s across the mid sections. Then I would use a sump pump to drain the pool, leaving the garbage cans filled and giving me dry access to the return. Each 32 gallon garbage can full of water will weigh about 265 pounds.
My second thought would be to create a diagonal wall using 2x6 and plywood to create a triangular space by the leaking drain. It would go from about three foot out from the corner to about three foot out to the side of the pool, isolating the area of the drain leaving a triangular access. The wood would be mitered and shaped to perfectly fit the outline of the pool. I would also buy an oversized vinyl liner for an above ground pool. I would sink the liner in the pool, lay it out on the bottom of the pool, then covering up the walls and the temporary plywood wall in corner. From there, suck the water out of the corner of the pool, leaving that corner dry, water being held back by the liner.
The garbage cans seem simpler and is the way I am leaning but would love to hear any thoughts, comments or other feedback on either of the methods or an entirely different way to tackle this.
I will have other questions related to the repair, e.g., what parts to have on hand the day I do the repair, how to properly backfill as well as others, but wanted to first focus on the methodology to getting access to the drain. Thanks
I obviously need to be able to access the drain dry so thought about two different methods to have access to the drain while not completely draining the pool. I have the benefit of a drainage area just off my property about 20 feet from the pool that tells me even after the heaviest rain the water table is about six inches below the bottom of my pool. The water table drops about another two feet in extended dry weather.
The first idea is somewhat simpler and it is to just get a bunch garbage cans, sink them upright in the pool. From there I would brace the pool using plywood against the walls and 2x4s across the mid sections. Then I would use a sump pump to drain the pool, leaving the garbage cans filled and giving me dry access to the return. Each 32 gallon garbage can full of water will weigh about 265 pounds.
My second thought would be to create a diagonal wall using 2x6 and plywood to create a triangular space by the leaking drain. It would go from about three foot out from the corner to about three foot out to the side of the pool, isolating the area of the drain leaving a triangular access. The wood would be mitered and shaped to perfectly fit the outline of the pool. I would also buy an oversized vinyl liner for an above ground pool. I would sink the liner in the pool, lay it out on the bottom of the pool, then covering up the walls and the temporary plywood wall in corner. From there, suck the water out of the corner of the pool, leaving that corner dry, water being held back by the liner.
The garbage cans seem simpler and is the way I am leaning but would love to hear any thoughts, comments or other feedback on either of the methods or an entirely different way to tackle this.
I will have other questions related to the repair, e.g., what parts to have on hand the day I do the repair, how to properly backfill as well as others, but wanted to first focus on the methodology to getting access to the drain. Thanks
Upwards pressure versus the weight from cans pressing downward, and are they adequate enough? That's beyond my skill set honestly. But you do have to address those two situations - upwards pressure and side movement as it's very possible the walls will try to bow inwards. I've seen contractors build braces that span the width of the shell in 3-4 places to prevent the bowing. I'm not sure about the garbage cans having enough counter-pressure against a potentially elevated water table. Of course if the table isn't actively rising, all is good. Places that know for sure the water is pressing upwards will drain a hole or two through the shell bottom to relieve that pressure - like removing a cork. Hopefully you won't have to do that.
