Draining and bringing down the waterline?

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tsar said:
The SWG has been running for a week or so, there are 3-4 chlorine tabs in the skimmer that the pool guy left. But that's about it. I got the water tested and got what all the pool store mentioned. I'll order the test kit, hopefully comes in a few days.
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All the stuff the pool store suggested.....take it back and get your $ back. Then just listen to the pool guys here because they will have your pool care free in short order. Sorry that kinda sounded jerky. Seriously though you should fire your pool guy, you have bunches here that are way better, and don't put any of the pool store chemicals in your pool until you get your test kit. Also those pucks could end up causing more problems. Read some threads on cloudy water and you'll know why I'm suggesting this.
 
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Did the pool guy leave tabs because he knew the SWG wasn’t working? How does the water look at the moment?
 
@Lake Placid
>Did the pool guy leave tabs because he knew the SWG wasn’t working?

He said get the water tested and put the salt 2 days after he opened. He left the chlorine tabs as a short term solution in the meantime. Unfortunately even though the water did clean up, with the thunderstorm and the vacuum not arriving in time, it's been almost 8-9 days since we opened the pool and I haven't been able to add any chemicals ... The test kits come on Sunday, so I can do a test then and add chemicals then itself.
 
@rcs29

> Also those pucks could end up causing more problems. Read some threads on cloudy water and you'll know why I'm suggesting this.
Should I take them out of the skimmer at this point then? They still don't seem to have disolved, probably more than 50% there. I plan to add chemicals after testing on Sunday.
 
tsar said:
I've ordered the Taylor K-2006C, and Taylor K-1766
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You are on your way. You will be amazed at how empowering it is to test your own water. Unlike so many things we have to rely on someone else for, it's nice to have something you can do yourself and trust. You won't regret it. In the meantime, do the best you can by cleaning the pool and watching the filter pressure just so water keeps moving well. You might want to stay familiar with the SLAM Process that is used to remove algae. A couple other important links are the FC/CYA Levels and using the PoolMath APP. All of these are great tools to help make water management easy and reliable. As with ANY pool question,, whether it be equipment, chemistry, whatever, just post back here and we'll walk you through it. As you can see there are lots of people always watching and ready to help.
 
Never put chemicals in the skimmer. Only dose directly in you pool, over a return. Pucks which are very acidic can speed damage to your equipment when used like that. You‘re going to need to SLAM your pool if it was green, which is going to require liquid chlorine and a good amount of it. I’d suggest getting some liquid, pulling the tabs and manually dosing until you can test and begin a proper SLAM. Add about a gallon of (10% chlorine) a day until to keep things from getting out of hand.

Here‘s some reading to get you up to speed on the SLAM process.

www.troublefreepool.com

SLAM - Shock Level and Maintain

We’ve all had to deal with a green pool. Clear algae from your pool with a SLAM! Read here to use shock level and maintain to clear your pool.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
tsar said:
@rcs29

> Also those pucks could end up causing more problems. Read some threads on cloudy water and you'll know why I'm suggesting this.
Should I take them out of the skimmer at this point then? They still don't seem to have disolved, probably more than 50% there. I plan to add chemicals after testing on Sunday.
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Without knowing where you're at chemistry wise I'd say get liquid chlorine. Once you have that take the pucks out and add enough liquid to get to 5ppm of CL. Do that until Sunday then test your water. I'm sorry is your SWG generating currently or not? The pucks likely contain stabilizer which can make your water get to unmanageable CYA levels (you don't want that) necessitating a water drain/exchange. Once you get the kit people here will help you get where you need to be. Once that happens you won't need anything you can't get at a Lowe's or hardware store and you'll save boatloads of $. I'm going to go on a limb and say 90% of stuff you got at pool store won't be recommended to go in your pool from here and that's assuming you got the salt there.
 
When you receive your K-2006C kit, let us know if you have ANY questions. The link below is a great reference to use along with your test kit.

I know I'm getting ahead of myself on this one, but here is one testing tip for the FC test. Your new Taylor kit will say to fill the sample to 25 ML and use 2 scoops of power. Instead, you can do the following for your FC test:

Fill sample tube to 10 ML and add ONE generous scoop of R-0870 powder. It should turn pink, if it doesn't you have no chlorine. If it is pink, then start mixing and adding the R-0871 drops one at a time until the sample goes clear. Divide that number of drops in half. For example, 12 drops to clear equals an FC of 6.

Also, when you do run your first set of tests, please post them as follows:
FC
CC
CYA
PH
TA
CH

Extended Test Kit Directions Archives

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 

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I just skimmed through the SLAM process, the pool guy did shock the pool I know there were two bags of shock added for sure. I assume that's what cleaned up the pool from green to clear, so yeah there isn't any algae if that was the concern. Apologies for any confusion.

Thanks for all the info folks, I'll update this thread once I have the test kits, and I'll remove the chlorine tabs for now.
 
If you’re going to pull the pucks, have another source of chlorine ready to get into the pool to keep levels up. I’m not so sure you‘re algae free in spite of clear water and you don’t want it to blow up on you. When you get your test kit and run a full panel, that will help identify if you’ve got organics in the pool still or not.
 
tsar said:
I assume that's what cleaned up the pool from green to clear, so yeah there isn't any algae if that was the concern.
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You can have Algae and not "see" it. I would add 5ppm of liquid chlorine until you get your test kit.

If you have a smart phone, download Pool Math. It will help you calculate how much liquid chlorine to add 5ppm per day. PoolMath
 
tsar said:
Should I take them out of the skimmer at this point then? They still don't seem to have disolved, probably more than 50% there. I plan to add chemicals after testing on Sunday.
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Yes, remove them, please never add tabs to the skimmer. Bad for your equipment.
 
ok so here are the chemical results:

For chlorine, the water basically barely turned pink after adding a lot of DPD so should I assume it's near 0 or negligible?
FC (Free Chlorine)
CC (Combined Chlorine)

CYA - 30
PH - 7.2
TA - 90
CH - 110
Salt - 1600

It's a 16000 gallon pool approx - 15x33 (3ft depth to 6 feet depth).
 
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