I add the 5 drops to test for FC, as per the instructions. I wait the 2 to 3 seconds and look at the reading. For the CC reading it states that you should just wait another minute or 2 with same water that I just tested the FC with. Oh, now I see that it's states that a desirable FC reading is 2.0. Then it states "a difference of more than 0.2 ppm between free chlorine and combined chlorine level indicates a need for super chlorination." I'm not even sure how I'd be able to tell if there is a 0.2 difference. Do you think they meant 2.0?
Drain and add water at the same time?
- Thread starter Betty99
- Start date
This is why you need the FAS-DPD test, the color matching tests are just not accurate enough.
In my opinion, the PoolMaster kit is not taking CYA into consideration as most kits and pool stores don't. A 2FC is desirable for CYA of near zero but you solar losses would require vigilance to ensure you do not get a zero FC that allows algae growth. FC is the Free Chlorine that kills algae.
You need to know you CYA to make informed decisions about where your chlorine should be. I suggest you test your water with a higher quality kit and you learn the CYA/chlorine relationship. The test kit I recommend it the TF100 and the Pool School here will help with the knowledge.
You need to know you CYA to make informed decisions about where your chlorine should be. I suggest you test your water with a higher quality kit and you learn the CYA/chlorine relationship. The test kit I recommend it the TF100 and the Pool School here will help with the knowledge.
Sounds like you need to drain at least 50% of the water and replace it with fresh water. A 95CYA means the pool is very hard to manage and a SLAM would require more chlorine than you are likely to want to buy. It would require an initial FC of 24 and that's 4 jugs for 8.25% bleach to start.
How good/cheap is your fill water? Are you on a well?
How good/cheap is your fill water? Are you on a well?
Our water isn't terribly expensive. We're not on a well. Is the water unsafe to swim in now? We will likely do the draining thing on Sunday. Would it be dangerous to our AG pool to drain first and then refill?
I have drained 100% of the water out of my AG pool and then refilled with no issues.
What does your water look like? Can you see the floor easily? If so, anytime the FC is below shock level, you are OK to swim.
What does your water look like? Can you see the floor easily? If so, anytime the FC is below shock level, you are OK to swim.
Believe it or not, water is crystal clear. I knew I was having a problem because I needed more and more chlorine to get me to a 2.0 reading, which apparently is a lot less than what it should be considering my CYA reading.
Then you can simply drain the amount needed to fix your CYA and refill... then SLAM. Sounds like you are saving the weekend for swimming then fixing the water during the work week? I would...
You can swim anytime the water is clear and your FC is below your shock level for a given CYA.
You can swim anytime the water is clear and your FC is below your shock level for a given CYA.