Done with the pool store...onto home testing!

May 23, 2018
15
GA
Hi, new to the forum and hoping for help!
So my husband and I have been trying to get our pool ready for use the beginning of April. Here we are almost June and I feel like we’re close. After realizing how much money we wasted without results from our local pool store, we invested in a Taylor K-1004 kit to do our own testing.
Here are today’s levels:
FC 5
Total Bromine 10
CC 0
pH 7.8
TA 120
My kit does not test for calcium hardiness.

Levels from home test kit on 5/25:
FC 5
TBr 10
CC 0
pH 7.5
TA 120

Levels from pool store on 5/21
TC 5.8
FC 5.8
pH 7.5
TA 100
Calcium Hardiness 225
Stabilizer 50
Salt 3200

The pool looks fairly clear, meaning you can see the bottom, but doesn’t seem crystal clear. We still have some dark algae spots on the walls in the deep end and some chalky deposits on the seats and shallow areas. I scrub the walls with a brush almost daily, but we’ve had a lot of rain so it’s not as much as I’d like. In years past, we’ve had an oak tree dumping thousands of leaves into the pool and we were told that some leaves will stain the pool. Not sure if this is the case or if it’s just some really stubborn algae. We’ve since cut the tree down and noticed much less dark spots on the walls.
Anyhow, just wondering where to go from here to get this pool looking perfect with no dark spots and ready for safe swimming.
I have attached some pics for reference.
Help is much appreciated! Thank you!
 

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Hello and welcome!! I don't see a CYA value in your home test result. Hopefully, this response will bump your thread so that more informed/helpful individuals can assist. Until then, have you gone to Pool School? I would recommend taking a gander and getting your levels close to what's recommended. But bottom line, if you're having an algae issue, a SLAM is in order.
 
Welcome to the forum!

The K1004 is short on some very important tests. You need to be able to test for CYA and also FC above 5 ppm with a FAS-DPD test kit.

You are better off just getting a full kit and using the K1004 as a refill.

I recommend the TF100 as it was designed for residential use and has more of what you will use when testing your residential pool.

The only other real option for a test kit is a Taylor K-2006. Be careful comparing prices because the K-2006 comes in sizes, designated by a letter. The basic K-2006 has .75oz bottles. You need to get the K-2006-C to get the larger bottles that you want. Even then it is a little short on the reagent & powder for the FAS/DPD test.

Once you get your full test kit, run a full set of test results and post them here. We can provide you guidance based on them.

Take care.
 
Thank you. I will look into these test kits and post my results.

- - - Updated - - -

Thank you! I will get pool school schooled. So far my levels, that I can test in the current kit I have, Free Chlorine is the only one coming back high. I SLAM with bleach so doesn’t that increase FC levels even more? Sorry if this isn’t right, this is all new to me and I’m really trying to figure out how our pool works and chemical balances.
 
I think you are at the beginning stages of the pool going green. If so, I'd:

*** Buy 14 gallons of Chlorine
*** Put 2 gallons of chlorine in the pool until the correct testing equipment comes.
*** Run your pump 24/7
*** Brush the bottom and sides 2x daily
*** Read Pool School and SLAM info

when the test kit arrives

*** follow SLAM procedures exactly. It can take 7-10 days to complete.
*** take a picture daily to monitor progress

It's that simple!

Follow the Pool School information and you will never go through this again.
 
Ok, finally got the correct kit in and ran all the tests tonight. For background info, we’ve scrubbed the walls twice a day, added chlorine as recommended and gotten rain showers everyday. We’ve ran the pump almost 24/7, it keeps getting hot and cutting off (possibly a question for another thread?). Anyhow here are the numbers based on the TF100 kit.
6/4
pH 7.5
FC 3.5
CC 0.5
TC 4
CH 350
TA 100
CYA 35
 
Looks like you need a SLAM, but it shouldn’t be too hard of a one.

Bring your pH down to 7.2 and then don’t bother testing it again until the slam Is done.

Add enough liquid chlorine to bring the FC up to 16, based on your CYA level. Use Pool Math. To figure out how much LC you need. Test a couple of hours later and bring the FC back up up to 16. Brush brush brush. Test and dose again. Test and dose right before ,you go to bed and again when you wake up. The more you can test dose, the fast the process will go.

Remember, if you go with bleach, no scented, no easy pour, just plain blue.

SLAM is over when your water passes 3 test
1. Crystal Clear water. No algae visible
2, your CC is 0.5 or lower
3. You can pass the OCLT Pool School - Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT)
 
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