Doing things backwards as always! New salt water AGP, just filled and don't know where to go from here!?

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mikeems911

mikeems911

Gold Supporter
May 12, 2020
56
NY
Lil bit of background
I filled my pool with water today, went to the pool store to get sand for the filter and walked out with 5 bags of 40lbs salt, 12 pack of Shock packs (which i will be returning since i read several threads and pool school), 2x50lbs of sand because i needed 55 lbs of sand for my filter. Got a robot for the pool floor.
The next part will get people frustrated because it got me frustrated. I blindly listened to the pool guy.
-I filled the pool with water (yesterday and today) as it approached the 2 lower filters
-I put the sand in the filter, hooked up all the hoses.
-put in the 5 bags of salt in the pool.
-When the water level was above the 2 lower filters i backwashed till the clear capsule was pretty much free of sand, about 5-10 minutes.
-Switched to rinse and rinsed for a couple of minutes.
-Switched the pump to filter and let it run for 4-5 hours.
-Turned it off for the night.
The water level is now at the correct level
Next is getting a test kit reading, or actually getting water tested at the pool

I have no idea what im doing and realize its irresponsible to just "wing-it" but the father-in-law was involved and well.....

So, I dont know what to do now??
I have gathered i need to "SLAM" the pool to get the FC up to the appropriate level? Then turn on the SW part of the filter???
Chlorine/CYA chart? i bought a test kit. Do i add CYA first then add chlorine to balance?
How long do i run the filter daily?
I dont even know what to ask?
Thank you in advance to who ever gives me some advice.
 
To help get you started:
- Add some liquid chlorine (regular bleach) to increase the FC to about 2-3 ppm for today.
- Add stabilizer (CYA) for a CYA goal of "70" since you have a salt pool. (See below)
- Adjust the pH in the 7s range. If it gets to 8.0 or above, it's time to lower a bit with muriatic acid
- Monitor your FC everyday to avoid algae and compare your FC reading to the FC/CYA Levels. If it ever dips low, you can add some liquid chlorine quickly.
- Read our ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry, those Vital Links below in my signature, and post test results back here at any time if you need help.

Adding CYA:
To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, place the required amount as calculated by the Poolmath calculator into a white sock and place in the poolside skimmer basket. For those concerned about suction flow to the pump, suspending the sock near a return jet or from a floating device will also suffice. Best never to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. Squeeze the sock periodically to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level. CYA test readings should show a rise in 24-48 hours, however some pools may experience a longer delay to fully register. Best to confirm final CYA in about 5-7 days before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.
Click to expand...

www.troublefreepool.com

Determine Pump Run Time

To figure out how many hours you need to run your pump, you need to know how fast your pump works. You can find this here.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

www.troublefreepool.com

Water Balance for SWGs

Saltwater pools are becoming more and more popular. We discuss How salt generators work and water balance tips for SWGs to run them.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
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You should look at the TF-100 or K-2006C for testing rather than the K-2005. Review the details of these kits here: Test Kits compared The K-2005 you mentioned does not have the FAS-DPD chlorine test. You can test chlorine with a K-2005, but not as accurately or at higher levels. Given you have a salt system, you'll likely be running a higher CYA level and thus need to be able to test some higher FC levels accurately at some point.
 
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Yes, definitely keep the FC steady and balanced to your CYA as noted on the FC/CYA Levels until you get a proper test kit. I can't say enough good things about the TF-100, but the Taylor K-2006C will work as well. But you need one of those because they have the powder & drops formula (FAS-DPD) which does separate/very accurate FC and CC testing. MUCH more accurate and reliable than trying to read the color shades in that viewer.
 
Texas Splash said:
Yes, definitely keep the FC steady and balanced to your CYA as noted on the FC/CYA Levels until you get a proper test kit. I can't say enough good things about the TF-100, but the Taylor K-2006C will work as well. But you need one of those because they have the powder & drops formula (FAS-DPD) which does separate/very accurate FC and CC testing. MUCH more accurate and reliable than trying to read the color shades in that viewer.
Click to expand...
TF-100 will be ordered today with my TFP gift cert!
 
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6/16/20 OK, so I added 28oz of 7.5% bleach for a target of 3ppm @ 10:30. Went to Leslies' pool supply with some water at 17:00.
20200616_221638.jpg
Added another 50oz of 7.5% bleach and ran the filter over night.
06/17/20 Tested this morning FC is 3ppm.
Pump was borderline green to yellow on pressure. I will backwash once I get back home with a hose.
Do I add CYA to keep the FC up, or do I address the pH issue first?
Also, I haven't turned on the chlorinator yet, when do I do that?
 
mikeems911 said:
6/16/20 OK, so I added 28oz of 7.5% bleach for a target of 3ppm @ 10:30. Went to Leslies' pool supply with some water at 17:00.
Added another 50oz of 7.5% bleach and ran the filter over night.
06/17/20 Tested this morning FC is 3ppm.
Click to expand...
#1 ~ If you haven't added any stabilizer/conditioner/CYA, your FC will be gone once the sun is on the pool. (see #3)

mikeems911 said:
Pump was borderline green to yellow on pressure. I will backwash once I get back home with a hose.
Click to expand...
#2 ~ Backwash should be done at 25% over clean pressure. Also, be sure to turn off the pump anytime you switch filter settings: from filter (turn pump off) --> turn to backwash (run till sight glass clear) (turn pump off) --> turn to rinse (run till sight glass clear) (turn pump off) --> turn back to filter.

mikeems911 said:
Do I add CYA to keep the FC up, or do I address the pH issue first?
Also, I haven't turned on the chlorinator yet, when do I do that?
Click to expand...
#3 ~ Have you added any stabilizer, conditioner or CYA? If not, you can target CYA/30 to start (using Poolmath)
Are you at the salt level recommended by the manufacturer? My feeling is you need a little more salt... I just located the manual on intex website, you need at least 3000ppm salt, so use poolmath to go from 2700 to target 3000 Salt)
 
splashpad said:
#1 ~ If you haven't added any stabilizer/conditioner/CYA, your FC will be gone once the sun is on the pool. (see #3)


#2 ~ Backwash should be done at 25% over clean pressure. Also, be sure to turn off the pump anytime you switch filter settings: from filter (turn pump off) --> turn to backwash (run till sight glass clear) (turn pump off) --> turn to rinse (run till sight glass clear) (turn pump off) --> turn back to filter.


#3 ~ Have you added any stabilizer, conditioner or CYA? If not, you can target CYA/30 to start (using Poolmath)
Are you at the salt level recommended by the manufacturer? My feeling is you need a little more salt... I just located the manual on intex website, you need at least 3000ppm salt, so use poolmath to go from 2700 to target 3000 Salt)
Click to expand...
 
Just added dry acid, will wait and test, how long to wait?
Salt level is 2800.
No CYA yet, will add after 4 hrs of adding dry acid? I'm assuming the FC will dip by then? I will study the CYA/FC chart again, then I will turn the chlorinator on later today?!
Thank you for all the guidance.
Its much appreciated, my family has been stressed lately with the pandemic and me working. Due to you peeps, they will get some needed relief soon!
 
mikeems911 said:
Just added dry acid, will wait and test, how long to wait?
Click to expand...
You shouldn't use dry acid with SWG, the sulfates do not react well with the cell. Did you verify your PH level and target of PH/7.4 with Poolmath? Muriatic acid is preferred when lowering PH.

mikeems911 said:
Salt level is 2800.
Click to expand...
Is the level showing on the unit? It needs to be at least 3000 but not over 4000 according to the Intex manual online...

mikeems911 said:
No CYA yet, will add after 4 hrs of adding dry acid? I'm assuming the FC will dip by then? I will study the CYA/FC chart again, then I will turn the chlorinator on later today?!
Click to expand...
The CYA (conditioner/stabilizer) should be put in a sock and suspended in the water, preferably in front of a return (pump should be running for any/all chemical additions)
Yes the chlorine in the water is deteriorated by any UV light (sunlight)

Do you have the tests for accurate CYA and chlorine levels? (FAS-DPD chlorine test and Cyanuric Acid test)
 

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