Does anyone use the Oakton CTS tester to check salt levels?

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BrentATL

BrentATL

Member
Jul 15, 2021
24
Homosassa, FL
Pool Size
10800
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
I have an Oakton CTS tester and am curious if anyone uses one to check their salt levels.
The unit measures in ppt and I get 3.80 ppt....way off. Pool store tested it at 2700 ppm. A bit confused as this is a new calibrated unit.
IMG_5271.jpg
 
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cowboycasey said:
I would not trust both those tests.. get a Taylor K-1766 and see what you actually have.. then you can know if your digital is close..

Amazon.com : TAYLOR TECHNOLOGIES INC K-1766 DROP TEST CHLORIDE SALT WATER : Swimming Pool Liquid Test Kits : Garden & Outdoor

Amazon.com : TAYLOR TECHNOLOGIES INC K-1766 DROP TEST CHLORIDE SALT WATER : Swimming Pool Liquid Test Kits : Garden & Outdoor
smile.amazon.com
Click to expand...
I will do that. The meter is one I carry for work and is calibrated yearly, so it would be nice to use as it's easy. Pool lady comes today, so I will check her results before my kit comes in.
 
Get some calibration solution to verify the reading.

What does the SWG say?

What SWG do you have and how old is it?

I never trust any single test.

I want at least 2 tests that are in close agreement before I trust the reading.

If you have two readings that are significantly far apart, I would want two or three different readings to agree to figure out which one is correct.

You also have to use the chemistry rules to know if the numbers make sense given the circumstances.
 
JamesW said:
Get some calibration solution to verify the reading.

What does the SWG say?

What SWG do you have and how old is it?

I never trust any single test.

I want at least 2 tests that are in close agreement before I trust the reading.

If you have two readings that are significantly far apart, I would want two or three different readings to agree to figure out which one is correct.

You also have to use the chemistry rules to know if the numbers make sense given the circumstances.
Click to expand...
I just ordered the K-1766 Test Kit from TFP. My weekly pool service was yesterday and they told me the salt level was 3000. I used a second Oakton meter which read 3400.

I checked the SWG and it reads 3100. I'm not sure if that is the "setting" or an actual reading. The display reverts back to 60P. ??

The SWG control is a Blue Essence with a Hayward TCELL940. I was told by pool company the salt cell is 3 years old.

I used my TF-100 kit for the first time today and followed the instructions but most all my readings are off.
FC - 6.0
pH - 8.0
TA -60
CH - 325
CYA - 0
 
For AquaRite, move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.

Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.

Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Switching the unit off and then back on makes the unit reverse polarity.

Report all readings.

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

What is the T-cell size?

Is the T-cell size set correctly in settings?

To get the performance percentage of the cell in each polarity, divide the instant salinity reading in each polarity by the actual salinity reading.

For example, if the instant reading is 3,300 ppm and the actual salinity reading is 3,300 ppm, then the salt cell is working at 100%.

However, if the actual salinity was 3,800 ppm, then the performance percentage is 86.8%.

Anything over 75% is acceptable.

At75%, or lower, in either polarity, it's time to consider replacing the cell.

The instant salinity in both polarities should be about the same (+/- about 200 ppm).

You need to be really sure about the actual salinity reading.

You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.

K-1766 Taylor Salt Test

Note that ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus use the Hayward T Cell.

However, the procedure to get the diagnostic readings is different.

Here is the procedure for ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus:

Go to the diagnostic screen, note the readings and then press the + button to reverse the polarity.

When the new numbers appear, see what they are.

Then, press + again and note the new readings.
  • AL-0 is AquaRite.
  • AL-1 NatureSoft.
  • AL-2 MineralSprings.
  • AL-3 SmartPure.
  • AL-4 This changes the default display from average salt to percent output.
  • AL-5 This is used with Jandy automation.
  • AL-6 and AL-7 are used on the AquaTrol, which is an AquaRite with a timer for above ground pools.

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
JamesW said:
For AquaRite, move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.

Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.

Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Switching the unit off and then back on makes the unit reverse polarity.

Report all readings.

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

What is the T-cell size?

Is the T-cell size set correctly in settings?

To get the performance percentage of the cell in each polarity, divide the instant salinity reading in each polarity by the actual salinity reading.

For example, if the instant reading is 3,300 ppm and the actual salinity reading is 3,300 ppm, then the salt cell is working at 100%.

However, if the actual salinity was 3,800 ppm, then the performance percentage is 86.8%.

Anything over 75% is acceptable.

At75%, or lower, in either polarity, it's time to consider replacing the cell.

The instant salinity in both polarities should be about the same (+/- about 200 ppm).

You need to be really sure about the actual salinity reading.

You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.

K-1766 Taylor Salt Test

Note that ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus use the Hayward T Cell.

However, the procedure to get the diagnostic readings is different.

Here is the procedure for ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus:

Go to the diagnostic screen, note the readings and then press the + button to reverse the polarity.

When the new numbers appear, see what they are.

Then, press + again and note the new readings.
  • AL-0 is AquaRite.
  • AL-1 NatureSoft.
  • AL-2 MineralSprings.
  • AL-3 SmartPure.
  • AL-4 This changes the default display from average salt to percent output.
  • AL-5 This is used with Jandy automation.
  • AL-6 and AL-7 are used on the AquaTrol, which is an AquaRite with a timer for above ground pools.

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Click to expand...
First of all, thanks for your help!
I thought everything with my pool service was good until I started checking things myself. Now trying to get back on track, I appreciate and will take all the wisdom I can get!

Here is what I recorded:

"Report all readings".
3100
88
25.9
6.88
60P
-3100
AL-0 (I changed this from AL-4 per your comment)
r1.59
T-15

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
4E20193-201424

What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
Pool store gave me readings of 2100 yesterday and 2200 today on the samples I took in.
....These are all the other numbers they gave me: TC 1.5, Free Chlorine 1.5, CC - 0.0, pH 7.8, TA 75, Calcium hardness 250, Stabilizer 0, Total dissolved solids 3300, Salt 2200.

What is the T-cell size?
TCELL940

Is the T-cell size set correctly in settings?
Yes....T-15

To get the performance percentage of the cell in each polarity, divide the instant salinity reading in each polarity by the actual salinity reading.

For example, if the instant reading is 3,300 ppm and the actual salinity reading is 3,300 ppm, then the salt cell is working at 100%.
2200/3100= 71%. Correct???

Anything over 75% is acceptable.

At75%, or lower, in either polarity, it's time to consider replacing the cell.
I don't know that the pool company ever checked the cell. I asked about the flashing "Check Cell" light and they just reset it. I checked it and it looks very clean on the inside. No buildup of anytype.

You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.
Ordered the K-1766 kit today
 
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It's actually -3%, which is close to zero.

They use this random number generator to generate the readings.

Every once in a while, the number turns out to be correct just by chance.

RANDOM.ORG - True Random Number Service

RANDOM.ORG offers true random numbers to anyone on the Internet. The randomness comes from atmospheric noise, which for many purposes is better than the pseudo-random number algorithms typically used in computer programs.
www.random.org www.random.org
 
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JamesW said:
We have pretty close to zero confidence in pool store readings.
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Received my Taylor K-1766 and have been testing the salt level for a few days now. Test kit shows it at 3000 (not 2200 from pool store). Also received a new Oakton meter which reads anywhere from 0-100 ppm off my test kit. Sticking with test kit. Thank you for your help!
 
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