How difficult is it for a newbie at pool maintenance to do a pool start up after getting new plaster? We've had the old plaster chipped out this week and are going to have it replastered in January. Before we drained the pool we only cared for it for about 3 months so we are not overly confident of maintaining the right pool levels yet. Just found this site and ordered a Taylor K-2006 test kit. Have found some pool start up instructions and think we can manage this but since we don't know what we don't know, is this a good idea? Or should we have a pool company handle the start up and take over after that?
Do pool start up myself after new plaster??
- Thread starter LisaDLu
- Start date
You need to talk to whoever is installing the plaster and find out what is required to maintain the warranty. Their instructions could differ from what we would suggest.
The best start-up seems to be a "Bi-carb" plaster start-up ... search for Onbalance's threads if you are curious.
The best start-up seems to be a "Bi-carb" plaster start-up ... search for Onbalance's threads if you are curious.
It's January and we are getting ready to replaster next week. The plasterer usually works with a PB who does the pool start up but I showed him the NPC start up procedures and he thought they were fine. So, my question is is this something I can do (see above post for my skill level with pools) or should I hire the PB he works with to start it up first before I take over?
One more thing... the PB is the one who gave me the number for the two plasterers he uses so I could get quotes directly from them. He said if I wasn't adding water features or decking, etc then it was cost effective for me to go direct. He also said he would do the start up for free and if I liked his guys work maintaining the pool I could hire them for ongoing maintenance. I know we are going to do the maintenance ourselves so I feel bad getting his company to do the start up for free. I said I would pay for the start up and he said no, this was his policy. What do you think? Have the pros start up and maybe keep them on for a few months? Or jump in with both feet and do start up myself? THANKS!
I think if you are comfortable testing the water, and understand what the chemical levels should be during start up, and know what adding stuff will do, then there is no reason not to do it yourself, as long as your plaster guy is ok with it.
Are you familiar with pool math yet?
http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html
Are you familiar with pool math yet?
http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html
There's about 60k folks here more than willing to answer any questions you may have and help you out. USE US!
Ok – We are going to try to open this pool ourselves but I have some questions.
*Should I replace my old filter cartridges before we start running the pump or use the old filters until we get all the plaster dust out of the pool? They are pretty old so I think we should switch out for the new filters. I realize we will be cleaning the filters a lot while the plaster dust is being removed.
*Is Natural Chemistry’s Pool Perfect + Phos Free a sequestering agent?
*Can I add a sequestering agent and muriatic acid to the pool on the same day?
*The NPC start up procedures say not to run my SWG or add salt for 28 days, but after 48 hours I can add pre-diluted chlorine. We only maintained our pool for 3 months before it was drained and never added chlorine because of the SWG. What type of chlorine is recommended?
*I’ve never had to use CYA either. Is CYA and chlorine the same thing?
*Ok to use an automatic pool vacuum after 7 days? It has feet not brushes. Or is that too soon with new plaster?
*It looks like the NPC start up procedures are similar to the Traditional start up procedures found on this website. The NPC talks about adjusting the TA or PH on Day 1; Adding chlorine on Day 3; Adusting calcium and cyanuric acid levels on Day 4. While the Traditional only talks about CYA and chlorine on Day 3. Any reason why the Traditional doesn’t talk about TA or PH? I’m still on the fence on which procedure to follow (my plaster ok with either). Any opinions?
These are all my questions so far but I know I’ll have many more. Thank you!!!
*Should I replace my old filter cartridges before we start running the pump or use the old filters until we get all the plaster dust out of the pool? They are pretty old so I think we should switch out for the new filters. I realize we will be cleaning the filters a lot while the plaster dust is being removed.
*Is Natural Chemistry’s Pool Perfect + Phos Free a sequestering agent?
*Can I add a sequestering agent and muriatic acid to the pool on the same day?
*The NPC start up procedures say not to run my SWG or add salt for 28 days, but after 48 hours I can add pre-diluted chlorine. We only maintained our pool for 3 months before it was drained and never added chlorine because of the SWG. What type of chlorine is recommended?
*I’ve never had to use CYA either. Is CYA and chlorine the same thing?
*Ok to use an automatic pool vacuum after 7 days? It has feet not brushes. Or is that too soon with new plaster?
*It looks like the NPC start up procedures are similar to the Traditional start up procedures found on this website. The NPC talks about adjusting the TA or PH on Day 1; Adding chlorine on Day 3; Adusting calcium and cyanuric acid levels on Day 4. While the Traditional only talks about CYA and chlorine on Day 3. Any reason why the Traditional doesn’t talk about TA or PH? I’m still on the fence on which procedure to follow (my plaster ok with either). Any opinions?
These are all my questions so far but I know I’ll have many more. Thank you!!!
Unless your current cartridges are actually broken, I would stick with them for the first three weeks and then switch to the new cartridges.
Pool Perfect and Phos Free are two products often sold together, neither of which has anything to do with sequestrant and neither of which you need. Pool Perfect is an enzyme treatment that breaks down oils, and phosfree removes phosphates.
Yes, sequestrant and muariatic acid can be added on the same day.
Yes, you can add some chlorine starting on day three. I recommend using trichlor tablets for the first four weeks. They add chlorine and CYA (both slowly) and help lower the PH.
CYA is also called stabilizer, not the same thing as chlorine, though some forms of chlorine also include CYA.
I would wait longer for the vacuum.
TA and PH typically meet the NPC standard on their own, so you don't usually need to add anything. But that varies. In either case TA and PH will be going up and you will need to lower them at some point, so it seems silly to raise them, though there might in theory be some minor advantages for the plaster if you do.
Pool Perfect and Phos Free are two products often sold together, neither of which has anything to do with sequestrant and neither of which you need. Pool Perfect is an enzyme treatment that breaks down oils, and phosfree removes phosphates.
Yes, sequestrant and muariatic acid can be added on the same day.
Yes, you can add some chlorine starting on day three. I recommend using trichlor tablets for the first four weeks. They add chlorine and CYA (both slowly) and help lower the PH.
CYA is also called stabilizer, not the same thing as chlorine, though some forms of chlorine also include CYA.
I would wait longer for the vacuum.
TA and PH typically meet the NPC standard on their own, so you don't usually need to add anything. But that varies. In either case TA and PH will be going up and you will need to lower them at some point, so it seems silly to raise them, though there might in theory be some minor advantages for the plaster if you do.
JasonLion - Thanks for the information! Just to clarify the TA and PH will usually start to raise at some point after a replaster so the step that NPC says to lower them beginning day 1 is a mute point? That seems to be the biggest difference between the two procedures (NPC and Traditional). I'll verify with my plasterer what he thinks but I might as well just go with the Traditional since it seems to cut out a step that isn't really needed.
So basically for my start up I am adding sequestrant as soon as pool is filled; Running pump continuously for the first week; keeping SWG off for first 28-30 days; testing water each day; brushing entire pool twice a day: cleaning filters as soon as gauge rises to 20% above starting pressure; beginning on day 3 adding trichlor tablets (which contain both chlorine and CYA); After 28-30 days adding salt to pool and turning SWG back on.
The Traditional method doesn't say when to start lowering the TA or PH but I'm assuming it is as soon as they go above the recommended levels. How many days can it typically take for the TA or PH to rise, and if they do not rise but stay low on what day would it be appropriate to start raising them?
The water tests during start up should be FC; PH; TA; Calcium Hardness; CYA - but with Traditional start up it sounds like I should only concentrate on them after the 3rd day after I've added the trichlor tablets? Anything I should be looking out to do chemical wise before the 3rd day?
Sorry for all the "newbie" questions. Thanks!
So basically for my start up I am adding sequestrant as soon as pool is filled; Running pump continuously for the first week; keeping SWG off for first 28-30 days; testing water each day; brushing entire pool twice a day: cleaning filters as soon as gauge rises to 20% above starting pressure; beginning on day 3 adding trichlor tablets (which contain both chlorine and CYA); After 28-30 days adding salt to pool and turning SWG back on.
The Traditional method doesn't say when to start lowering the TA or PH but I'm assuming it is as soon as they go above the recommended levels. How many days can it typically take for the TA or PH to rise, and if they do not rise but stay low on what day would it be appropriate to start raising them?
The water tests during start up should be FC; PH; TA; Calcium Hardness; CYA - but with Traditional start up it sounds like I should only concentrate on them after the 3rd day after I've added the trichlor tablets? Anything I should be looking out to do chemical wise before the 3rd day?
Sorry for all the "newbie" questions. Thanks!
The main focus for the first few weeks is to keep the PH at 8.0 or lower. Depending on the particular pool that often means adding acid daily. In any case, you can focus on PH and TA will almost always take care of it's self. Or to put that another way, acid lowers both PH and TA in just about the same proportions that curing plaster raises them, so if you are adding the right amount of acid to take care of the PH, you are almost always adding the right amount to take care of the TA.
Ok - slight change of plan. We were going to start up the pool but the pool guy my plasterer usually works with did it. The pool has been filled with water for a week now. The first day (last Thurs) the pool guy tested water and added acid. He came back Saturday and added a gallon of acid. Said he would be back on Wed (yesterday). I tested water on Monday and PH seemed slightly high, I called him and he said not to worry BUT he did not show up yesterday. He has not shown up today (Thurs) or returned my calls. Anyway, my PH is higher than an 8 so I tested and am going to add 2 quarts of acid (amount per the Taylor water testing guide). I am taking over now since this guy seems to have gone flakey. My question is there is still some dust (I'm brushing twice a day and cleaning filters as needed) so I'm assuming I do not start adding the trichlor tablets until I see no dust when I brush? Or should I start trichlor tablets regardless? OK to add acid on the same say as trichlor tablets? I am still running the pump 24 hours a day. Since there is still some dust do I need to leave on continuously or go to a regular daytime schedule? Also, no sequesterant was added. I do not believe we have heavy metals like copper in the water but we do have hard water (the calcium level has been fine in the pool when I'm testing so far). Should I add some now or since it's been a week forget about it unless problems arise. That's all my questions for now. I'll have more, especially when it comes to adding salt in a month. THANK YOU!!
You want to add one trichlor tablet to the skimmer for each 10,000 gallons and replace as needed starting on the third day after plaster is applied.
Continue to brush at least daily and vacuum up dust as needed.
Continue to brush at least daily and vacuum up dust as needed.
Thanks Jason! I have some additional questions:
** It's been 9 days. Do I still need to run the pump continuously or go to a daytime only schedule? Still a little dust but does not look like much, filter pressure going to 20 every 2nd or 3rd day though.
** I don't believe any sequesterant was added on the first day. Should I go ahead and add some now?
** It's been 9 days. Do I still need to run the pump continuously or go to a daytime only schedule? Still a little dust but does not look like much, filter pressure going to 20 every 2nd or 3rd day though.
** I don't believe any sequesterant was added on the first day. Should I go ahead and add some now?
The sequestrant is just a precaution, one that is only effective in the first day or two. There is no point in adding any now. Metal stains in the first day or two can become embedded in the plaster and impossible to remove. That makes sequestrant right at the start worthwhile insurance. But after that there is no need for sequestrant unless you know you have metal issues.
The pump doesn't need to be run 24/7 after you stop having obvious plaster dust. The pump should be run 24/7 for at least four days any case. However if the filter is finding that much stuff to filter out, there are advantages to continuing to run the pump a lot. You do want to filter out what there is to filter out of the water one way or another, so you might want to continue running the pump until the filter can go longer between cleanings.
One thing to keep in mind is that trichlor should only be placed in the skimmer while the pump is running 24/7. If you reduce the pump schedule switch to trichlor in a tablet feeder or a floater.
The pump doesn't need to be run 24/7 after you stop having obvious plaster dust. The pump should be run 24/7 for at least four days any case. However if the filter is finding that much stuff to filter out, there are advantages to continuing to run the pump a lot. You do want to filter out what there is to filter out of the water one way or another, so you might want to continue running the pump until the filter can go longer between cleanings.
One thing to keep in mind is that trichlor should only be placed in the skimmer while the pump is running 24/7. If you reduce the pump schedule switch to trichlor in a tablet feeder or a floater.