Do phosphates matter?

I had a similar thing happen to our pool, maintaining the correct FC level for my CYA yet got an algae bloom which I got on top of very quickly and was able to eradicate in a few days. Following the SLAM I performed the OCLT for 4 nights and as it passed every night I was confident it was gone.

Like you, I was following TFP recommendations and did not understand how it was possible for algae to get a hold in our pool.

Prior to our algae bloom we had had no bathers using the pool but we had been experiencing lots of wind that was depositing large amounts of leaves and plant matter into the pool. I was emptying the skimmer basket daily each morning.

After putting some thought into it I found the answer.

I was testing our pool first thing of a morning. Like you we have a SWG, but due to the cost of electricity being more expensive during the peak times i.e. throughout the day, we were not replenishing the pool with chlorine until the early hours of the morning between midnight and 6am unless we had had any bathers using the pool.

So each morning when I tested the pool the chlorine level was always where it needed to be.

However, due to various reasons, which in our case was a very high leaf load and sunny days our FC level must have been dropping below the minimum for our CYA PRIOR to being replenished in the early hours of the following day. So it was a timing issue of when we were running the SWG.

From that experience I now test at the end of the day and I split the run time of my SWG into 3 time periods so as to replenish chlorine on a more consistent basis during a 24 hour period. I also run a higher FC level of 8 with CYA of 80 just to have some wiggle room. Plus during times of high leaf load I empty the skimmer basket at least twice a day.

Could your algae problem be caused by similar circumstances?
 
With a SWCG it is always best to test your water right before your SWCG starts generating for the day. If you are running it 24 hours per day, test just as the sun goes down.
 
For completeness of the discussion, phosphate treatment should be a one time treatment done at the beginning of the season, that is all. If any proposes phosphate treatment as a weekly routine, then they don’t understand the chemistry and are simply trying to make a fast buck. The only time frequent phosphate testing and treatment would be needed is if you are intentionally adding phosphate-containing products to your pool (eg, scale and stain inhibitors) OR your municipal fill water has high phosphate levels. If either of those conditions exist, then treating phosphates is a losing proposition and you should instead focus on limiting the input of phosphates, not trying to remove them after them.
 
For completeness of the discussion, phosphate treatment should be a one time treatment done at the beginning of the season, that is all. If any proposes phosphate treatment as a weekly routine, then they don’t understand the chemistry and are simply trying to make a fast buck. The only time frequent phosphate testing and treatment would be needed is if you are intentionally adding phosphate-containing products to your pool (eg, scale and stain inhibitors) OR your municipal fill water has high phosphate levels. If either of those conditions exist, then treating phosphates is a losing proposition and you should instead focus on limiting the input of phosphates, not trying to remove them after them
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I don't disagree with any of that because I don't know. Likewise, I don't disagree with any of this post by Ben Powell (generally acknowledged as an authority on Pool Chemistry)

Phosphate removal -- done right -- can accomplish as much in some, but not all, cases. And, it has no bad side effects. Downside: you'll have to experiment in a trial with me, since the methods and materials taught/sold by the pool industry generally do NOT work, for a variety of complicated reasons, and I have not 'tuned' my approach to residential pools yet. IF you qualify (no major leaks, no well-water, willing and able to use a K2006 kit, etc. ) then we can talk. First year cost for a pool your size will be around $400. Probably you will have left over phosphate remover, but that's one of the things I've got to test. Money-back guarantee BUT YOU must be conscientious about weekly testing and logging.

My approach is 60% method and 40% material, so if you are hit or miss with your pool, it wouldn't be a good option for either of us.

So these two takes on Phosphate Removal are almost polar opposite for me.......which advice should the novice use? I suggest neither. Lack of adequate chlorine is the issue in 98% or more of our algae cases and I suggest the focus should be on the proper application of chlorine. The phosphate discussion seems completely peripheral to me......especially when there seems to be no consensus as to just how to apply PR into your pool water management.
 
Thank you all for the phosphate comments. I agree with the premise that phosphates are simply food for the algae and not necessarily indicative of an algae problem. However, I can also see the benefit for removing that food if you are having issues keeping an adequate chlorine level which is a cause for potential algae. Temps. are going to be heating up around here in the Keys and I know the heat doesn't help matters any either. So I'm okay with this one time phosphate treatment. I think the salt cell problem is resolved, so hopefully we can get back to a steady Chlorine level and get back on track. It has certainly been a battle with my salt water chlorination system and I am so grateful for the knowlege I have gained on this site. This is a fantastic forum and I thank all of those who have given me advice over the last 5 years. This site is invaluable!! Thank you so much.
 
I have seen on TFP that phosphates don't matter. I have kept my pool at FC-6-7, PH -7.6, CYA-80, TA-60-70, have yet to have any CC's. I have had algae twice in the last 2 months. I have a TF -100 test kit but I took a sample to Leslies today and they say the reason I have gotten algae is because my phosphates was 500. Could this be true? All my other tests lined up with theirs.
Looks like your cya is high which might be rendering your chlorine less affective
 
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