Do I need to SLAM?

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Grendel2000

Member
Jun 9, 2022
15
Maryland, USA
I opened my pool nine days ago (vinyl above ground rectangle - 16 x 32, 15400 gal). I replaced my sand filter & pump before opening the pool and I purchased both a Active 20 robot vacuum and a Betta 2 solar skimmer which have been alternating doing their thing pretty much 24/7 along with constant filtering.

Prior to letting the robots in the pool I had nuked it pretty well with the chlorine and done two or three full pool brushings after getting all leaves, etc. out. It basically looks perfect at the moment. Numbers this morning were as follows:

FC - 0.6
CC - 1.38
PH - 7.9
TA - 66
CH - 127
CYA - 16
Over the course of the day today I added:

- 4 lbs of dry stabilizer to raise the CYA
- 12 oz of Ph down (dry acid) (aiming for 7.5ph)
- 1 gal of 12.5% bleach to get out up to 10+ ppm (I use only liquid chlorine (12.5%) and add stabilizer as needed)

I also got CH up (calcium I guess) but I'll hold off adding that until I'm done sorting out the more important stuff.

Again, the pool looks amazing and isn't presenting any obvious problems. I intend to keep running the robot vacuum once daily and run the Betta as much as possible when the vac is out of the pool. I still need to add my stairs to the pool (I plan to do so tomorrow) and I intend to keep the chlorine level high until they're in for a day or two and then check for any CC I guess to make sure any crud that could be in the internal spaces of the steps is dead (can't brush in there...).

Is my plan sufficient or do I need to go through a proper SLAM even though everything appears to be good?
 
Grendel2000 said:
FC - 0.6
CC - 1.38
PH - 7.9
TA - 66
CH - 127
CYA - 16
Click to expand...
How are you testing? These look like pool store test results (ask me why I am PoolStored). 🤣

Please get one of the TFP recommended test kits and report back. Order one TODAY. Link-->Test Kits Compared

Until you get a good test kit, I would add 3ppm of Liquid Chlorine daily, add nothing else.

Grendel2000 said:
also got CH up (calcium I guess) but I'll hold off adding that until I'm done sorting out the more important stuff.
Click to expand...
Vinyl pools do not need CH.

Grendel2000 said:
12 oz of Ph down (dry acid) (aiming for 7.5ph)
Click to expand...
Dry acid adds sulfates and are not recommended for a pool. 1) you should use muriatic acid to lower pH, and 2) any pH in the 7s is just fine, don't try to micromanage pH.

I would recommend you read through this...Link-->Pool Care Basics
 
PoolStored said:
How are you testing? These look like pool store test results (ask me why I am PoolStored). 🤣

Please get one of the TFP recommended test kits and report back. Order one TODAY. Link-->Test Kits Compared

Until you get a good test kit, I would add 3ppm of Liquid Chlorine daily, add nothing else.


Vinyl pools do not need CH.


Dry acid adds sulfates and are not recommended for a pool. 1) you should use muriatic acid to lower pH, and 2) any pH in the 7s is just fine, don't try to micromanage pH.

I would recommend you read through this...Link-->Pool Care Basics
Click to expand...
I own and ordinarily use a Taylor K-2006 test kit. I hate the CYA reading's subjectiveness so I was lazy today and went to the local pool store (good eye!). Today is literally the first time I've had them test my water in probably five years - I had a ton of issues in the first few years of owning this house/pool until I started reading here at TFP and getting some of the basics down.

Thanks for the info on CH & vinyl pools as well as the dry acid info - I've used muriatic in the past but frankly, I get nervous using it and liked the idea of the dry stuff...

Thanks!
 
Grendel2000 said:
I own and ordinarily use a Taylor K-2006 test kit. I hate the CYA reading's subjectiveness so I was lazy today and went to the local pool store (good eye!). Today is literally the first time I've had them test my water in probably five years - I had a ton of issues in the first few years of owning this house/pool until I started reading here at TFP and getting some of the basics down.

Thanks for the info on CH & vinyl pools as well as the dry acid info - I've used muriatic in the past but frankly, I get nervous using it and liked the idea of the dry stuff...

Thanks!
Click to expand...
Great! First step in finding solutions is admitting the truth. Gold STAR!!!

Use your K-2006. It is the GOLD STANDARD of testing. Do a full round of testing and post results.

Why is this important? If we make any recommendations without good testing, we can do damage to your pool or equipment, or cost you more $$.

Grendel2000 said:
Is my plan sufficient or do I need to go through a proper SLAM even though everything appears to be good?
Click to expand...
The only reliable way to know if you need to do slam is to do this test...Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

Pint it out and read it three times. Follow all the recommendations. You need to get your FC up (see OCLT instructions) before performing the test. You added 4lbs of stabilizer, which should get you to 30-40 CYA. Wait 48 hours AFTER the CYA has dissolved before testing again. Get that CYA in the pool, then perform OCLT.

Read these instructions on CYA testing: CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

Print them, read them three times. Outdoors, bright sunlight at your back, waist level, quick glance.
 
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Do a full set of tests with your K-2006 and enter the results into PoolMath
We need to see results from the K-2006 before offering advice.

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH (this time, even for your vinyl pool)
CYA (pour the solution back into the bottle and do the test three times - then take the average)
Also, fill out your signature with pool, pool equipment (including manufacturers and model numbers) and test kit info.
This assists us in providing help specific to your pool without needing to ask each time.
 
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Grendel2000 said:
I've used muriatic in the past but frankly, I get nervous using it
Click to expand...
Be respectful of MA, do not FEAR MA. Use safety glasses/goggles. Pour slowly (pencil thin pour) over a return. Add acid to water, and add it downwind. If you get any splash, just dip your arm in the water...good to go.
 
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proavia said:
Do a full set of tests with your K-2006 and enter the results into PoolMath
We need to see results from the K-2006 before offering advice.

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH (this time, even for your vinyl pool)
CYA (pour the solution back into the bottle and do the test three times - then take the average)
Also, fill out your signature with pool, pool equipment (including manufacturers and model numbers) and test kit info.
This assists us in providing help specific to your pool without needing to ask each time.
Click to expand...
I'll do that in the morning - thanks!
 
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Grendel2000 said:
Ok, morning test results:

FC - 7.0
CC - 0.5
PH - 7
TA - 60
CYA - 65
Temp - 67 deg
Click to expand...
Those numbers look fine. Go sit back and sip some coffee and admire the pool. 😉

But note that we always round the CYA up to the nearest 10ppm. That way you’re not under chlorinating.
 
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Bperry said:
Those numbers look fine. Go sit back and sip some coffee and admire the pool. 😉

But note that we always round the CYA up to the nearest 10ppm. That way you’re not under chlorinating.
Click to expand...
Is there any reason or advantage to dumping some water to lower the CYA level a bit? I could save on some chlorine I guess. Or should I expect the CYA number to drop over the next week since I only added the stabilizer yesterday? It definitely overshot where I wanted it to be 45 or so)…
 
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