I am replacing my motor due to bad bearings, and when I removed the seal plate and mounting plate from the motor, I noticed they were looking like this. Can I just clean these up, and reinstall with the new motor, or do these look like they need to be replaced? Obviously there is a lot of corrosion due to water getting in, so I wasn't sure. Thanks!
Do I need a new seal plate?
- Thread starter cholmes28
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,480
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I went ahead and cleaned them up real good and I think they will be fine. Why is there so much corrosion on motor?
So I just replaced the motor, and turned it on, and all I hear is a faint humming, but it is for sure not spinning or anything. Any suggestions? I have read it could be incorrect voltage, stuck impeller, or bad capacitor. It is a brand new motor. I am running it in 115, and I moved the jumper from 230 to the 115 spot. I ran the black and white electrical wires to the same screws that they were connected to on the old motor. Ideas to look at?
Sure, let me go pull the motor and get a photo. I know the shaft spins freely before I hooked up everything, but I will make sure. Back in a bit.
Here is a pic. I noticed on the old motor, that the jumper was in the 230V position, but I am pretty sure my setup is 115V, so I moved the jumper to the 115V position. As far as the shaft spinning freely, when I pulled the motor from the pump, and tried turning the plastic piece attached to the shaft, it turns, but is does take a little force. I wouldn't say it spins like a top or anything.
Attachments
I think I may have figured it out. The black wire is supposed to be in the first screw, not the one by the jumper. I actually didn't think it mattered which terminal the black and white wires go to, but I just read that it should be the opposite of how I did it, so I am going to swap the wires and see if that does the trick.
Did you measure the supply voltage?
Are you 100% sure that the old motor was wired for 230?
Are you 100% sure that the old motor was wired for 230?
Do you have a voltmeter to check the actual voltage? Maybe a picture of the wiring in the timer would be good.
I did not touch the jumper on the old motor and it appears to be in the 230V position. If my wiring was 230, then wouldn't I have black, red, and green wires, instead of black, white, and green? Here is my timer wiring. I will go test the voltage, but I am 99% sure it is 115V.
Attachments
People don't always use the correct color wire.
That's why I always test the voltage instead of assuming what it is from the wire color.
The below picture looks like the 115 position.
So, you might be correct, but test anyway.
That's from the manual for your timer - looks like 120 wiring to me. But if you can you should measure it.
If you are getting the correct voltage to the motor, then the impeller might be binding.
You are correct, the old one is in the 115V position. So now that we know I have the right voltage, and my wiring is correct, then what? Is it likely I have a bad capacitor on a brand new motor? Anything else to look at?
Maybe the seal is in backwards or the impeller is rubbing.
How easily does the impeller turn by hand?
How easily does the impeller turn by hand?