DIY SWG thread #759

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strategy400

Well-known member
Jun 6, 2013
119
Southern California
Pool Size
40
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hi. I'm considering installing a SWG and my question is:

Is the SWG turned on by applying power to a controller for the SWG?

IE - Can a smart switch like a sonoff be used to turn it on and off as long as it is turning the pump on to a compatible speed?
 
Correction, it's post number 9.

Low Budget DIY Automation

When we built the pool, I decided against full automation for a variety of reasons including cost, the proprietary nature of available devices, and the fear an expensive system would quickly become obsolete and unsupported. I've seen a few forums members using Raspberry PI and Arduino...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
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SWCGs use a couple hundred watts at most; well within the ratings of virtually all WiFi etc outlets. I use a mix of Kasa and Eco-plug outdoor outlets to drive the SWCG (formerly for a Stenner pump), fountain, Dolphin robot, and landscape lights, and a Kasa switch for the pool light. All the automation I need for a lot less.

I wired the SWCG for 120V and connected a cord with a normal plug (a Calimar CMARSHA, but any SWCG should be settable). I just make sure the SWCG time is within what I set the IntelliFlo pump's built in timer to. That part is a bit of a pain after DST changes and power outages (the WiFi switches always get the correct time, the Pentair pump loses it despite supposedly having an internal backup). But I think of the $1000+ I saved for 5 minutes of work 4-5x/year and feel like my time is valued :)
 
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So far I have this creation. The top left 3 relays are for pump speed (12v), The next 5 are for solar/valve actuators (24v). The bottom 4 are for lighting and SWG (120v). There is a space reserved for the temp probe. I plan to use wall warts to power the sonoff devices. Trying to keep the 120 as isolated as possible. Am I going to be able to control the SWG using a single 10 amp relay, and is there an ideal SWG system I should get for that scenario? My pool is pool/spa, spillover, around 30000/35000 gallons.
automation.jpg
 
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You can control the SWG with a single Sonoff switch. The 10 amp rating is plenty. Given the size of your pool, you should select a SWG that's rated for 60,000 gallons. That limits your choice to just a few. My first choice would be the Circupool RJ60+. With the current promotion, you select the RJ45 and upgrade to the RJ60 for $10.
 
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Any electricians, I'm trying to power my automation from an existing GFCI circuit in my pool sub-panel. Does this look like it will give GFCI protection to the automation? I suspect my neutral wiring might be wrong. It could all be wrong. Please excuse my ms-paint skills.wring.jpg
 

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I'm starting to think my neutral wire needs to come from the load side of the GFCI. Can I just stab another wire into the back of the GFCI outlet on the load/neutral to run the neutral to my automation, or wrap around the screw, or is it better to splice it in with a wire nut? Am I missing something the coroner will have to explain later? ☠️

GFCI.jpg
automation2.jpg
 
You definitely need the neutral for all of the protected equipment to come from the load side of the GFCI, otherwise it will (should) trip as designed, so your second diagram is correct.

You can use both backstab holes, but you have some other issues there -- my understanding is that most backstab connections are not rated for stranded wire like are in there already. That loose strand sticking out is one reason. And I suspect the way that dual switch sits in the slot intended for a decora switch leaving a gap isn't right either.

One option would be to attach a short pigtail length wire to the outlet (solid to either screw or backstab, stranded to screw), and then a wire nut at the other end to splice to the multiple wires. I am not an electriician -- verify this against other sources or consider hiring one to do the connections.
 
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Yes, and the "pros" that built the pool wired the panel. So the stranded wire and suspect switch is their doing. I also noticed they wrapped a wire counterclockwise around a terminal screw. I haven't died yet.

I stabbed a solid wire in next to the stranded for neutral. They both feel firmly anchored in the terminal. I may do the pigtail later. My load is coming off the switch. I also ran a ground from the panel ground bar to the ground in my automation, which is just a din mounted outlet. None of the components in the automation box even use a ground. If I go silent on the forum please donate to TFP in lieu of flowers.
 

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