Oh man, I had this whole thing typed out and hit the back button. Frustrating!
Ok. Let's see if I can retype this. Maybe it'll be better. The first version was pretty verbose.
First off, sorry for the delay in reply. When my pool has snow sitting on the mesh I don't come here very often. Tend to hibernate from TFP until May.
Those germans have it all figured out! I believe DIN rail is what Europe uses in their home electrical so they have way more options. Those cases look good. After reading my options below you may be able to reduce the size of your box requirement and can find something more economical here in the US
So here are my thoughts...
Option 1. Don't use a GFCI. The manual specifically doesn't say you need one. Other Pentair manuals I've looked at (SuperFlo, IntelliBrites) specifically state whether you need one or not. But that's a big ASSumption for your safety. Ask your pool guys what the GFCI breaker they'd use for say an Intellicenter would be. If their answer is we don't use one. Then I'd feel better about this option.
You still have a lot of power coming into that box though. Make sure you upscale your wiring over what I used and don't run anything through a terminal block until after it hits a circuit breaker. You'd have to run your feed direct to a capable busbar (commonly found) or capable terminal block (don't know of any in the DIN rail world)
Option 2. Hybrid option. As I stated in Option 1, your feed to the pool would be 100Amps considering pool pump, lights, Ultratemp. You'd need to go from the feed DIRECT into something like the Altech busbar which could handle that. Don't use Dinkles in between like I did. Their largest (DK10N) are only rated for 60Amp so you'd likely melt something. Then from the busbar pull the wires for your ultratemp back off that busbar (Check out part# ULB50) direct to a small subpanel with traditional US parts where GFCI for 50Amp is easy to find and then off to your pump.
Option 3. My favorite. I'll call it "the @MyAZPool model". For all your incoming power needs just use a traditional outdoor sub panel and run power wires down into a 2nd box full of the DIN rail pieces/raspberry Pi, etc for the things you'd want to have on a relay. This 2nd box just contains relays, maybe a contactor for that big honking power hog Ultratemp (altho I'd say just run it directly to the heatpump from 1st box, you'd have a breaker in the 1st box and RS-485 methods of control for this device). And then you could model what I did for my setup in the 2nd box minus the breakers of course. MyAzPool has a great example of this as it's what he did AND his wiring is very pretty to boot!
And sorry caroexx for hijacking your thread.
Merry Christmas!
Ok. Let's see if I can retype this. Maybe it'll be better. The first version was pretty verbose.
First off, sorry for the delay in reply. When my pool has snow sitting on the mesh I don't come here very often. Tend to hibernate from TFP until May.
Those germans have it all figured out! I believe DIN rail is what Europe uses in their home electrical so they have way more options. Those cases look good. After reading my options below you may be able to reduce the size of your box requirement and can find something more economical here in the US
So here are my thoughts...
Option 1. Don't use a GFCI. The manual specifically doesn't say you need one. Other Pentair manuals I've looked at (SuperFlo, IntelliBrites) specifically state whether you need one or not. But that's a big ASSumption for your safety. Ask your pool guys what the GFCI breaker they'd use for say an Intellicenter would be. If their answer is we don't use one. Then I'd feel better about this option.
You still have a lot of power coming into that box though. Make sure you upscale your wiring over what I used and don't run anything through a terminal block until after it hits a circuit breaker. You'd have to run your feed direct to a capable busbar (commonly found) or capable terminal block (don't know of any in the DIN rail world)
Option 2. Hybrid option. As I stated in Option 1, your feed to the pool would be 100Amps considering pool pump, lights, Ultratemp. You'd need to go from the feed DIRECT into something like the Altech busbar which could handle that. Don't use Dinkles in between like I did. Their largest (DK10N) are only rated for 60Amp so you'd likely melt something. Then from the busbar pull the wires for your ultratemp back off that busbar (Check out part# ULB50) direct to a small subpanel with traditional US parts where GFCI for 50Amp is easy to find and then off to your pump.
Option 3. My favorite. I'll call it "the @MyAZPool model". For all your incoming power needs just use a traditional outdoor sub panel and run power wires down into a 2nd box full of the DIN rail pieces/raspberry Pi, etc for the things you'd want to have on a relay. This 2nd box just contains relays, maybe a contactor for that big honking power hog Ultratemp (altho I'd say just run it directly to the heatpump from 1st box, you'd have a breaker in the 1st box and RS-485 methods of control for this device). And then you could model what I did for my setup in the 2nd box minus the breakers of course. MyAzPool has a great example of this as it's what he did AND his wiring is very pretty to boot!
And sorry caroexx for hijacking your thread.
Merry Christmas!