I live in Phoenix, AZ. We bought my house 4 months ago, new pool owner. I have been taking care of my pool myself. My chemistry is spot on. I have the Taylor test kit. I rarely use tablets, just keep adding liquid chlorine daily. i keep my FC above 4 most days and my pH is right round 7.6. My CYA is between 50 and 60 most weeks. My problem is a steady dirt residue at the bottom and my pool has turned a grreenish tint. Its frustrating. I manually clean it and I have THE POOL CLEANER, but there's still dirt and a greenish tint(or so I think)) over the past 4 months, it wasnt always that way. I have been very diligent in the pool chemistry. I know what I am doing there but the color is annoyiing. It doesn't look right TO ME.
dirt and a greenish tint
- Thread starter Markjohns
- Start date
LoneWolfArcher
Bronze Supporter
According to the CYA chlorine chart you should be above 5FC @60 CYA. With a target of 7-9. I'd do a SLAM, be and then stay@ 7FC or above and that should clear up the green.
Likely the "dirt" it's dead algae. Is it super fine? As in lightly disturbing the water near it stirs it up?
Likely the "dirt" it's dead algae. Is it super fine? As in lightly disturbing the water near it stirs it up?
Welcome to the forum 
+1 what Lone Wolf Said. If you see ANYTHING on your pool floor, you should brush it up into the chlorinated water and continue to do so until it is gone. That's advice for the future.
Now, I think you need to SLAM the pool. There is an article in pool school to tell you exactly how to SLAM but first read "The "ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School
+1 what Lone Wolf Said. If you see ANYTHING on your pool floor, you should brush it up into the chlorinated water and continue to do so until it is gone. That's advice for the future.
Now, I think you need to SLAM the pool. There is an article in pool school to tell you exactly how to SLAM but first read "The "ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School
ok, I did the test today via my test kit and I got these results
FC-between 2.5 and 3 which doesn't make sense b/c I am adding 3-4 cups of chlorine nightly
TA-110
CYA-between 50- and 60. its hard for me to read that thing.
PH-7.5
I took a water sample to Band L pools here in Glendale yesterday at 3 pm and the guy said I had 7.5 at that time. Now I doubt the chlorine level went down to more than half within that time and this morning at 7 am. Either he is wrong or my testing is wrong. I stopped the pucks as I can see the end result of continuing adding them willonly hurt things. I really didn't use the pucks that much at all. Maybe 2-3 every 2-3 weeks. Noting crazy but my CYA has gone up 2 times in the last 2 months.
Today my pool looks good but still there is dirt, I know its not algae(or so I think). Its just a thin layer that comes off the bottom and the walls when I brush it. its like dust. there is alot of dust here where I live.
should I still SLAM my pool to get the FC up. Someone mentioned there is a article about how to slam but I cannot find it. Its just a paragraph in pool schoo.. Yes I have read pool chemistry.
FC-between 2.5 and 3 which doesn't make sense b/c I am adding 3-4 cups of chlorine nightly
TA-110
CYA-between 50- and 60. its hard for me to read that thing.
PH-7.5
I took a water sample to Band L pools here in Glendale yesterday at 3 pm and the guy said I had 7.5 at that time. Now I doubt the chlorine level went down to more than half within that time and this morning at 7 am. Either he is wrong or my testing is wrong. I stopped the pucks as I can see the end result of continuing adding them willonly hurt things. I really didn't use the pucks that much at all. Maybe 2-3 every 2-3 weeks. Noting crazy but my CYA has gone up 2 times in the last 2 months.
Today my pool looks good but still there is dirt, I know its not algae(or so I think). Its just a thin layer that comes off the bottom and the walls when I brush it. its like dust. there is alot of dust here where I live.
should I still SLAM my pool to get the FC up. Someone mentioned there is a article about how to slam but I cannot find it. Its just a paragraph in pool schoo.. Yes I have read pool chemistry.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,551
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
SLAM Process
If you are adding 4 cups of 10% liquid chlorine each day, that equates to 1.2 ppm FC added.
By comparison, my pool currently consumes just over 4 ppm FC per day at this time of year in our environmental conditions.
You need to add a lot more chlorine each day.
Mr Knauss, t hanks for the reply but still I am confused whether to slam or not. I am having company over this weekend to hang out. When I wake up the pool is clear, not blue, but several hours later, there is a thin layer of dirt/dust on the bottom when I brush it , it comes up. I have attached pictures. In the 3rd pic you can see the "dirt: spots". when I brush it, it just dissipates, but then resurfaces despite running the pool cleaner. fy i, it seems I can only add 1 picture. Thanks. ~
Attachments
- May 3, 2014
- 58,551
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I would suggest you follow the SLAM Process. Use your TF100, adjust the pH to 7.2, re test your CYA if necessary, and follow the FC/CYA Levels for SLAM level FC. Test and add chlorine 3-4 times per day. Once you pass the three criteria for a successful SLAM, maintain your FC at target range for your CYA.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,551
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
ok done. my cc's by the way were basically non-existent. i added 3 gallons, 2 quarts just now
LoneWolfArcher
Bronze Supporter
CCs will get burned off by the sun so no CCs do not necessarily mean nothing is using chlorine.
cool thx al for the great recommendations. I actually slammed with just over 4 gallons yesterday and today the pool looks sooo much better. much more blue. whats the next step? do i add more chlorine or just wait. I am having company tomorrow so hopefully the chlorine goes down to a reasonable level.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,551
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Maintain the SLAM Process until you pass the three criteria as shown in the article.
You may safely swim in the pool with FC above minimum and at or below the SLAM level FC.
You may safely swim in the pool with FC above minimum and at or below the SLAM level FC.
by maintain the slam process does that mean I add another 4 gallons of chlorine today? not quite sure what that means sir. the specifications are sort of vague. thanks Mark
- May 3, 2014
- 58,551
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
You Maintain your SLAM level FC by testing the FC every few hours and adding enough chlorine to raise the FC back to SLAM level FC.
Have you read the SLAM Process article?
Have you read the SLAM Process article?
Mark,
Not to sound repetitive, because everyone is trying to help you, but please read the SLAM Process link that mknauss linked above. That tells you everything you need to know. You need to maintain the SLAM process until you pass the overnight chlorine test. The fact that your pool looks so much better with more chlorine says you definitely have an algae problem, which will only get worse.
Not to sound repetitive, because everyone is trying to help you, but please read the SLAM Process link that mknauss linked above. That tells you everything you need to know. You need to maintain the SLAM process until you pass the overnight chlorine test. The fact that your pool looks so much better with more chlorine says you definitely have an algae problem, which will only get worse.
Ok but what does, "maintain the slam process" mean. that doesn't tell me anything. I tested the chlorine just now and its at 21-22. Not to sound stupid or hard to deal with but telling to maintain the slam process doesn't tell me anything specific.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,551
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
SLAM:
- Test the FC level and add enough chlorine to bring FC up to shock level (see here for correct shock level)
Test and adjust chlorine levels as frequently as practical, but not more than once per hour, and not less than twice a day. Chlorine additions should be frequent, especially at the beginning. Algae and other organic debris will consume chlorine very rapidly at first. As things progress, you will lose less chlorine each cycle and can add chlorine less frequently. - Brush and vacuum the entire pool once a day
- Backwash or clean the filter as needed
- Vacuum up debris as needed
Mr. Knauss, I did bring up to shock level yesterday and I tested it just now at 21-22. shock level was 24. I am not sure if I add more to bring BACK UP TO 24 or what? It doesn't state to KEEP the levels at 24, it just states, :" Chlorine additions should be frequent, especially at the beginning. Algae and other organic debris will consume chlorine very rapidly at first. As things progress, you will lose less chlorine each cycle and can add chlorine less frequently". that is very vague TO ME. I appreciate your help.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,551
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Test and adjust chlorine levels as frequently as practical, but not more than once per hour, and not less than twice a day.