Hello everyone, for a couple of swimming seasons now, my pool plaster has been very sharp and rough. It's 15 yeas old (Diamond Brite), and it's can rip your skin right off. Every Pool Plastering company out there wants to resurface my entire pool of course for $15K. I open, close, and do my own water chemistry monitoring via a Taylor K-2006 FAS-DPD complete kit. I am vigilant when it comes to my water chemistry numbers. I use the TFP's pool math app as well.
I'm wondering if there's a less expensive alternative solution to smoothing out my existing plaster and getting a few more years out of it (hopefully?) rather than spending the small fortune of re-plastering the entire pool. Any advice is welcome. I live in northeast New Jersey, so any recommendations of trustworthy contractors is also welcome.
One other question regarding Calcium Hardness. When I test for CH, the Taylor Kit instructs me to stop counting drops (reagent R-0012) when the water turns from red to blue. But... my water turns lavendar/purple first, then if you add more drops it'll finally turn blue, but it takes a substantial more amount of drops to go from lavendar to blue. This color situation makes me doubt (a little) whether I'm tracking CH accurately. Does Taylor consider lavendar same as blue? Are they color blind? When do I stop adding R-0012 drops exactly? I ask this because I know that the sharpness in the plaster is a result of a CH problem, and I'd hate to think I've been recording the CH numbers wrong after all these years.
I do need to call a contractor and remedy my sharp pool plaster situation.
Thank you everyone and stay safe.
Adrian
I'm wondering if there's a less expensive alternative solution to smoothing out my existing plaster and getting a few more years out of it (hopefully?) rather than spending the small fortune of re-plastering the entire pool. Any advice is welcome. I live in northeast New Jersey, so any recommendations of trustworthy contractors is also welcome.
One other question regarding Calcium Hardness. When I test for CH, the Taylor Kit instructs me to stop counting drops (reagent R-0012) when the water turns from red to blue. But... my water turns lavendar/purple first, then if you add more drops it'll finally turn blue, but it takes a substantial more amount of drops to go from lavendar to blue. This color situation makes me doubt (a little) whether I'm tracking CH accurately. Does Taylor consider lavendar same as blue? Are they color blind? When do I stop adding R-0012 drops exactly? I ask this because I know that the sharpness in the plaster is a result of a CH problem, and I'd hate to think I've been recording the CH numbers wrong after all these years.
I do need to call a contractor and remedy my sharp pool plaster situation.
Thank you everyone and stay safe.
Adrian