DEWENWILS Outdoor Smart Pool Timer Box Heavy Duty

[JoIII]

Trying to upgrade from my Intermatic timer . Im not sure if i have the wrong model but i can’t seem to get it to work as its suppose too .
I have two 120v Line wires
Pool pump has 4 wires red,black,white ,green
Chlorinator has 3 red,black, green

Dewenwils i have has the following terminals
L—N, com1–no1 ,com2–no2

The one picture is the old setup , and the other is new smart box terminal

 

[setsailsoon]

Trying to upgrade from my Intermatic timer . Im not sure if i have the wrong model but i can’t seem to get it to work as its suppose too .
I have two 120v Line wires
Pool pump has 4 wires red,black,white ,green
Chlorinator has 3 red,black, green

Dewenwils i have has the following terminals
L—N, com1–no1 ,com2–no2

The one picture is the old setup , and the other is new smart box terminal

Please upload a photograph of the wiring in the new control box that is not working. All we can see here it's a photograph the instructions. We need to see your actual wiring for the new box. The instruction sheet appears to show the wiring diagram for a 120 volt application not a 240 volt application.

 

[JoIII]

Please upload a photograph of the wiring in the new control box that is not working. All we can see here it's a photograph the instructions. We need to see your actual wiring for the new box. The instruction sheet appears to show the wiring diagram for a 120 volt application not a 240 volt application.

I have a jumper wire between L and Com 1
Com 1 has 120v Line(Red)
N has two white neutral wires (one from power side and one to pool pump)
NO1 has two wires (one to pump and one to Chlorinator )
Com 2 has 120v Line (Black)
NO2 has two wire (one to pump and one to Chlorinator )

When i power the breaker , everything turns on . I cannot turn off , unless i shut the breaker off.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

You are connecting to 240v, correct? 240V applications don't use a neutral wire. You'll have two wires carrying the load (usually red/blk) and a ground (green).

Trace the wiring to your pump, open the wiring cover, and confirm which wires are carrying the 120v load. Trace the white wire...is should not be in use.

Here's a wiring diagram from the manual (HOWTO1B):

 

[ajw22]

You are connecting to 240v, correct? 240V applications don't use a neutral wire. You'll have two wires carrying the load (usually red/blk) and a ground (green).

Trace the wiring to your pump, open the wiring cover, and confirm which wires are carrying the 120v load. Trace the white wire...is should not be in use.


View attachment 400210

He has neutrals in his old Intermatic timer. Maybe for a 120V clock.

He needs to verify what voltage his pump and SWG are set to. Could be 120V or 240V or some mixed setup.

 

[JoIII]

Both are 220v

 

[JoIII]

Both are 220v

I just winged nut the two neutral wires since im guessing i don’t use them . Both the pump and chlorinator turn on and won’t turn off from the timer

 

[JoIII]

Heres a pic

 

[ajw22]

You have a multimeter?

Use the continuity checking and check that the relays are opem when no power is to the switch. Pull the breaker to the hot wires and check continuity between COM! - NO1 & COM2 - NO2. Both should be open.

If good there then disconnect the wires from NO1 & NO2 and power the hot wires. Check for voltage at NO1 & NO2.

Does the box has a manual ovreride switch to turn the relay on and off? If the box is closing the relay when powered then you have a defective switch that is not defaulting to open..

 

[JoIII]

You have a multimeter?

Use the continuity checking and check that the relays are opem when no power is to the switch. Pull the breaker to the hot wires and check continuity between COM! - NO1 & COM2 - NO2. Both should be open.

If good there then disconnect the wires from NO1 & NO2 and power the hot wires. Check for voltage at NO1 & NO2.

Does the box has a manual ovreride switch to turn the relay on and off? If the box is closing the relay when powered then you have a defective switch that is not defaulting to open..

When i pull the wires and touch NO1 and Com 1 i get a reading , so i guess the switch is bad since its closed by default

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

I have the WiFi version of the box. Here's how it's wired...

• Terminal L: Line in from breaker (120v). Jumper to COM2
• Terminal N: Line in from breaker (120v). Jumper to COM1
• Terminal NO1: Load 1 to component
• Terminal NO2: Load 2 to component

My box also has NC1 and NC2 terminals not is use.

I can't quite trace the wires in your photo.

Here's a photo of my box. Purple/Purple are Line 1 and Line 2 (120+120). Purple/Orange are Load 1 and Load 2 to component. Sorry, I didn't chose the wire colors.

I can't trace the wires in your photo, but @ajw22 should be able to sort it out.

Hope this helps...

 

[JoIII]

Thanks for reply ,

I have a jumper wire(red) between L and Com 1
Com 1 has 120v Line(Red)

NO1 has two wires (one to pump and one to Chlorinator )

Com 2 has 120v Line (Black)
Com 2 has a jumper wire(blue) to N

NO2 has two wire (one to pump and one to Chlorinator )

When i turn the power on from the breaker both the pump and chlorinator turn on and will not shut off. The switch clicks on (load) and off when i press buttons but nothing happens . I have to flip the breaker back off

 

[JoIII]

@Rancho Cost-a-Lotta @ajw22 , Thanks for everything , it was the timer . As soon as i replaced it with a new one everything worked fine .

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Good to hear. Glad you got it sorted out.

 

[Poolowner7000]

@Rancho Cost-a-Lotta @ajw22 , Thanks for everything , it was the timer . As soon as i replaced it with a new one everything worked fine .

I think I’m having the same issue. The wifi only stays on for about 15 seconds or so then shuts off and right back on again. Same thing with manual power button