Daily nuisance tripping of 230V GFCI breakers!

makingbirdie

In The Industry
Dec 8, 2022
6
Melissa, Texas
Pool Size
12000
Surface
Plaster
I have read many articles on this forum (thank you!) about GFCI breakers tripping on VS pumps. I have a Mechanical Engineering and Energy Engineering background and many years of construction experience including electrical. I am by no means an Electrical Engineer and not even a licensed electrician but safe to say I could wire an entire home. Maybe no enough to be dangerous. So here is my story:

Pool ALMOST completed and filled two months ago. This has been a long battle around contract commitments and a pool builder that would cut a corner to save a dime. I did win many battles with the plumbing and pumping being the biggest accomplishment. It is not rocket science and there is plenty of quality information online to get the piping sized and installed correctly and with energy efficiency in mind. Thank goodness for variable speed pumps so that we can offset this absurdity by oversizing the pumps. Anyway my pumps are oversized but I have automation so all is great. Now to my problem. 240V 20A GFCI Eaton breakers tripping almost daily. These breakers are shared with other items such as heater, 2 blowers and oversized ozone generator (battle for another day). Electrician wired with 40 amp breaker in main panel to subpanel located by pool equipment. Subpanel has two 240V 20A breakers and one 120V 15 amp. Here is the detail:
(a) 240V 20A Breaker A - Jandy 2.7HP Epump + 2-1HP Silencer Blowers = 15.7A full load. This is dedicated to the 12 jets in the 2800 gallon spool. Pump set at max speed 3000 RPM since it will slide off the end of the curve thanks to the 3" piping.
(b) 240V 20A Breaker B - Jandy 1.65 HP VS FloPro + Heater + Ozonator = approx 15A full load. This serves filtration, heating and sanitization.
(c) 120V 15A Breaker C - Aqualink RS8 + all actuators, 4-12W Hydrocool and 15A outlet.

Originally electrician had wires doubled on the 3HP relays in the Aqualink some on line side and some on load side. The power runs through the relays to all devices. I have since added additional relays to put each piece of equipment on its own relay but circuit power is still shared as described above. I have been moving things around trying to troubleshoot during the journey.

The key problem is breakers GFCI's only tripping almost daily. The one to the 2.7HP trips more often but it had not actually tripped with everything running. I have read that power should be dedicated to pumps, direct to pumps, on Siemens only breakers, grounding conversations and lots of it must be wired wrong thoughts. At first it seemed like the spa jet pump was always tripped when I tried to use it in the evenings. I started to establish a pattern that they tripped in the heat of the day and when reset in the evening they would run with no issue until the next afternoon. This subpanel is located on the brick wall on the West side of my house in North Texas. As it got hotter, GFCI breakers tripped daily. I even chased down whether humidity was the factor. I spoke with multiple electricians and a licensed PE who did not think that temperature should be the issue. Weather has stabilized enough that I could rule out most everything else so I thought I would try just putting a blanket over the subpanel to provide shade and to minimize the radiant heating. The breakers have not tripped in the last 36 hours. This is the longest they have gone since it started getting hot.

What am I missing? Seems like this would be a very common issue for a subpanel to be mounted on a West facing exterior brick wall. I found no information that referenced this specific issue. I am looking for all perspectives because it is really difficult to enjoy and maintain water chemistry (also another issue I am battling for another day) when my pumps keep tripping the breaker. Any insight or opinion would be welcomed and I appreciate your responses. Thank You!
 
Our pool was installed in 2012. For a couple of years all the equipment ran fine. Then our EcoStar 3400VSP started tripping its circuit breaker. I called Hayward who sent a repairman from a local Hayward dealer. He uninstalled the pump and took it back to the shop to see if he could find a problem.

I continued doing research online and I called Hayward again and spoke to a different tech support person. When I explained the problem, the first question he asked was what specific circuit breaker we were using. I had no idea so I went out to the pool and told him. I forget what brand it was, but he told me that the circuit breaker we had was not on Hayward's list of approved models. I asked him why it had worked for a couple of years with no problems. He said it was probably aging a bit and starting to trip too easily. I had to search to find one of Hayward's approved breakers. I did locate one and had it shipped to me.

Meanwhile the pool guy brought our pump back and reinstalled it and said they could not find a problem. I told him what Hayward told me. After receiving the new circuit breaker, I installed it.

We have had no circuit breaker problems since then (about 8 years).

Our panel is under a pergola. But it is at the south end so it gets a lot of direct sunlight and does get very hot. One of this year's projects is to install something to keep the panel out of the direct sunlight.
 
I have read many articles on this forum (thank you!) about GFCI breakers tripping on VS pumps. I have a Mechanical Engineering and Energy Engineering background and many years of construction experience including electrical. I am by no means an Electrical Engineer and not even a licensed electrician but safe to say I could wire an entire home. Maybe no enough to be dangerous. So here is my story:

Pool ALMOST completed and filled two months ago. This has been a long battle around contract commitments and a pool builder that would cut a corner to save a dime. I did win many battles with the plumbing and pumping being the biggest accomplishment. It is not rocket science and there is plenty of quality information online to get the piping sized and installed correctly and with energy efficiency in mind. Thank goodness for variable speed pumps so that we can offset this absurdity by oversizing the pumps. Anyway my pumps are oversized but I have automation so all is great. Now to my problem. 240V 20A GFCI Eaton breakers tripping almost daily. These breakers are shared with other items such as heater, 2 blowers and oversized ozone generator (battle for another day). Electrician wired with 40 amp breaker in main panel to subpanel located by pool equipment. Subpanel has two 240V 20A breakers and one 120V 15 amp. Here is the detail:
(a) 240V 20A Breaker A - Jandy 2.7HP Epump + 2-1HP Silencer Blowers = 15.7A full load. This is dedicated to the 12 jets in the 2800 gallon spool. Pump set at max speed 3000 RPM since it will slide off the end of the curve thanks to the 3" piping.
(b) 240V 20A Breaker B - Jandy 1.65 HP VS FloPro + Heater + Ozonator = approx 15A full load. This serves filtration, heating and sanitization.
(c) 120V 15A Breaker C - Aqualink RS8 + all actuators, 4-12W Hydrocool and 15A outlet.

Originally electrician had wires doubled on the 3HP relays in the Aqualink some on line side and some on load side. The power runs through the relays to all devices. I have since added additional relays to put each piece of equipment on its own relay but circuit power is still shared as described above. I have been moving things around trying to troubleshoot during the journey.

The key problem is breakers GFCI's only tripping almost daily. The one to the 2.7HP trips more often but it had not actually tripped with everything running. I have read that power should be dedicated to pumps, direct to pumps, on Siemens only breakers, grounding conversations and lots of it must be wired wrong thoughts. At first it seemed like the spa jet pump was always tripped when I tried to use it in the evenings. I started to establish a pattern that they tripped in the heat of the day and when reset in the evening they would run with no issue until the next afternoon. This subpanel is located on the brick wall on the West side of my house in North Texas. As it got hotter, GFCI breakers tripped daily. I even chased down whether humidity was the factor. I spoke with multiple electricians and a licensed PE who did not think that temperature should be the issue. Weather has stabilized enough that I could rule out most everything else so I thought I would try just putting a blanket over the subpanel to provide shade and to minimize the radiant heating. The breakers have not tripped in the last 36 hours. This is the longest they have gone since it started getting hot.

What am I missing? Seems like this would be a very common issue for a subpanel to be mounted on a West facing exterior brick wall. I found no information that referenced this specific issue. I am looking for all perspectives because it is really difficult to enjoy and maintain water chemistry (also another issue I am battling for another day) when my pumps keep tripping the breaker. Any insight or opinion would be welcomed and I appreciate your responses. Thank You!
Replace the Eatons with Siemans, QPF2 20A GFCB. Far less nuisance tripping.
 
Thanks everyone for responses. I will say that my theory has proven to not be entirely correct. While my filtration pump has run for 48 hours without tripping, the jet pump did trip again without even trying to run. Siemens breakers on order and I will let you know the results.
 
Thanks everyone for responses. I will say that my theory has proven to not be entirely correct. While my filtration pump has run for 48 hours without tripping, the jet pump did trip again without even trying to run. Siemens breakers on order and I will let you know the results.
Is the heater or ozone system set to run on 120V? You can't tap off of one leg of a 240V dual-pole GFCB and not have it trip.
 
Heater and Ozone are set to run on 240V at the moment. I currently have Clear03 Ozonator removed electrically because it was oversized adding too much air into the system and keeping the chlorinator from working properly. I have a bleed kit on they way but after reading all the pool school information on this site; maybe I am looking at this wrong. I was going to do SWG but pool builder had issues with the pool across with the natural stone (lueders) pitting that was associated with using SWG. He did not want to put it on my pool since I have travertine coping. The tablet chlorinator, pump tripping and maybe other issues has caused a yellow algae problem that I in a war trying to remedy. Following advice on this site. I am likely to abandon the ozonator and on a very limited basis use the tablet chlorinator. CYA is too high due to feeder. Long story short...not sure I am even going to use the ozonator. I also still have the two blowers that are connected to the the same circuit as the jet pump but on separate relays.
 
Heater and Ozone are set to run on 240V at the moment. I currently have Clear03 Ozonator removed electrically because it was oversized adding too much air into the system and keeping the chlorinator from working properly. I have a bleed kit on they way but after reading all the pool school information on this site; maybe I am looking at this wrong. I was going to do SWG but pool builder had issues with the pool across with the natural stone (lueders) pitting that was associated with using SWG. He did not want to put it on my pool since I have travertine coping. The tablet chlorinator, pump tripping and maybe other issues has caused a yellow algae problem that I in a war trying to remedy. Following advice on this site. I am likely to abandon the ozonator and on a very limited basis use the tablet chlorinator. CYA is too high due to feeder. Long story short...not sure I am even going to use the ozonator. I also still have the two blowers that are connected to the the same circuit as the jet pump but on separate relays.
If you decide to use tablets, put them in a floating chlorinator not an in-/offline feeder, and NEVER the skimmer. your equipment will thank you.
 
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Update and advice for others:

Followed advice from 1PoolMan1
If you decide to use tablets, put them in a floating chlorinator not an in-/offline feeder, and NEVER the skimmer. your equipment will thank you.
Update: Followed your advice and replaced Eaton breakers with the Siemens breakers recommended. Neither of the breakers have tripped since replacing. I went from at least daily tripping to no trips in 7 days. Pretty obvious what the problem was at this point. Breakers looked used when I took them out and there is a clear difference if you hold the Eaton breaker and Siemens breaker in your hands. Eaton felt like a toy. Siemens was clearly a better manufactured breaker from every element. It is absurd that a 40 year pool builder would install that junk. The cost to fix the algae issue from the breaker tripping was far more than the slight increase in breaker cost.

Now that I have been to "Pool School" and followed the PoolMath directions on my chemicals and tracking, I have a new issue. I have abandoned the tablet feeder since it in a short time had CYA up at 80. I have been using liquid chlorine and 31.45% acid. My pool is consuming 30oz/day of 10% liquid chlorine and 10oz/day of acid to keep the 6ppm free chlorine and 7.6 PH levels. I do have a spillover from 2800 gallon spa/spool into a 9000 gallon pool. I run pump 24/7 varying speeds through different periods of pool only, spillover, sheer descent which is in the spa and therefore is spillover mode also. This is really cheap to operate with great flow at about 70 cents/day. Pool looks great after slamming and water remains very clear. My issue is that I travel often for work and I can't add chlorine and acid everyday and I am stunned at the rate of consumption. That is almost 2 gallons of chlorine/week. So....I am evaluating the switch to SWG for convenience and less worry hoping to stabilize chlorine levels. Sounds like most of the pool advisors on here would recommend the switch but don't really see consistency in product recommendations. Almost everything in my system is Jandy including an Aqualink RS8. Does anyone have a recommended SWG (and/or more advanced setup) product and should I really size at 3 times pool capacity with the 24/7 operation I am running? Thanks again for all the help and I am trying to learn fast!
 
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Sounds like most of the pool advisors on here would recommend the switch but don't really see consistency in product recommendations.
There are too many systems and user preferences out there for us to make a one size fits all decision. I like Pentair for me but for you with Jandy stuff already and a smaller pool, I like Jandy for you. But not the tru clear, get the 1400plc or whatevs they call it.
should I really size at 3 times pool capacity with the 24/7 operation I am running?
I would have gone 3X in NY for the ROI of a larger unit alone. It's heavy in your favor when upgrading. Your TX season is much longer than mine and you'll reach end of life that much sooner all else being equal.
 
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