CYA problems

hubbell75

Member
Jan 6, 2022
17
Spicewood, TX
Hi All...new guy here, thanks in advance for the patience! I'm pretty sure I know the answers, but would still like opinions. First, here are the numbers (waiting on the Taylor K2006 test kit, should be here Monday).

FC: 2.46
TC: 2.54
CC: .08
pH: 7.5
TA: 75 (I have since added sodium bicarb to bring this up)
Calcium Hardness: 314
CYA: 130 (NEED TO CONFIRM)
Phosphates: 0

I have brushed, vacuumed and cleaned the filters. Pool looks clean, but water is cloudy. Obviously, I have a CYA issue which is going to require higher levels of chlorine. I have stopped the tabs and am using granulated shock now, since I don't want to run the CYA up any further. Pump is running extended hours to help out.

My main question is this: am I wasting time trying to keep it going with that high of CYA? Was hoping to limp it through the summer and drain/refill when water is cheaper in the fall. Part of me doesn't think it's worth it and just need to pull the bandaid off. Or am I close to having clear water?

Going to switch to non-stabilized tabs going forward to avoid in the future.

PS-I am in the CenTex/Austin area. Hot and full sun on the pool. I'll edit my signature to reflect that!


Thanks for the help!
 
am I wasting time trying to keep it going with that high of CYA?
Yes. :) In fact, with tabs and powdered shock products, your CYA is still climbing and may be much higher than you think. Your K-2006C test kit will confirm. For now, don't bother with much except to one gallon of liquid chlorine to the pool each day. That's it. Don't bother going to the pool store or trying any other products. Don't run your pump on high or run it all day, it won't matter. Algae is not a mechanical issue, it's all about chemistry, ad yours obviously got out of whack there. But we'll help you get it back.

Post a full set of results once you get the kit. Welcome to TFP! :wave:

 
Yes. :) In fact, with tabs and powdered shock products, your CYA is still climbing and may be much higher than you think. Your K-2006C test kit will confirm. For now, don't bother with much except to one gallon of liquid chlorine to the pool each day. That's it. Don't bother going to the pool store or trying any other products. Don't run your pump on high or run it all day, it won't matter. Algae is not a mechanical issue, it's all about chemistry, ad yours obviously got out of whack there. But we'll help you get it back.

Post a full set of results once you get the kit. Welcome to TFP! :wave:

Thank you so much! Will confirm once I get the test kit and report back. Probably depends on how high the CYA is, but am I looking at a full drain or will partial suffice? In the meantime, is it safe to swim in? 100 degrees today (May 7th?!) and everyone wants to get in! I really appreciate this site and forums....it is what the internet is supposed to be about!
 
I know - it's HOT. I just got out of ours. :swim: Your pH looks to be okay, your FC is low, so you can easily add a gallon of liquid chlorine now if you haven't already. It's perfectly fine. So as long as you can see the bottom of the pool (safety), go for it. :swim:
 
TA: 75 (I have since added sodium bicarb to bring this up)
No need to add baking soda. High TA leads to undesirable upward movement of pH. Especially since you're stopping tabs and powder, a TA as low as 50 is fine.

I have stopped the tabs and am using granulated shock now
Granulated chlorine also contains CYA or calcium. Add liquid chlorine only. You'll most likely have to perform a diluted CYA test when you get your K-2006C.

I am in the CenTex/Austin area. Hot and full sun on the pool.
You're a great candidate for a SWG.

Going to switch to non-stabilized tabs
Tabs will add either CYA or calcium to your water. Both options are unsustainable. Liquid chlorine or SWG is the way.

15,000 gallon AG, pebbletec pool. In-line chlorine w/ Ultra UV.
You have an inground pool, right? AG=Above Ground. Disable your UV system, it's depleting your FC. You get ample UV from the sun.
 
Update- Been reading a bunch on here and got the Taylor K-2006 test kit tonight. Here are updated numbers and plan. FWIW, pool cleared up yesterday....after looking at numbers, I believe I finally got the FC number up high enough to compensate for elevated CYA and it sorted itself out.

pH: 7.8
FC: 9
CC: .2
TA: 150
CH: 400
CYA: 130
Temp: 85F

Plan to drain/replace roughly 55% of water, which should take care of CYA and CH numbers. Once it's refilled, I'll get the pH and TA in order, then SLAM. Going liquid chlorine going forward, with Cal-Hypo for shock only.

Talked to pool builder and he says even with recent rain, draining 50% won't be an issue with floating the shell.

Open to thoughts and suggestions, thanks in advance!
 
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You have the right idea, although I might try to talk you out of using cal-hypo in the future unless you have really soft local water. In any case, the water exchange will definitely help with the CYA. After the exchange, post a new set of test results and we'll go from there. Good job testing your own water. :goodjob:
 
You have the right idea, although I might try to talk you out of using cal-hypo in the future unless you have really soft local water. In any case, the water exchange will definitely help with the CYA. After the exchange, post a new set of test results and we'll go from there. Good job testing your own water. :goodjob:
Got it, thanks. Was being cheap and just using the cal-hypo until the bucket runs out. Probably penny wise and pound foolish sounds like. Will circle back after the refill.
 
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Cal-Hypo for shock only
If you maintain the proper FC level for your CYA, you never have to routinely shock. If you need to SLAM, you'll use liquid chlorine.

Any thoughts on a SWG? After a 1/3 drain and refill, your CYA would be perfect for one.
 

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If you maintain the proper FC level for your CYA, you never have to routinely shock. If you need to SLAM, you'll use liquid chlorine.

Any thoughts on a SWG? After a 1/3 drain and refill, your CYA would be perfect for one.
Haven’t done enough research, but the little I’ve done…SWG might be smart. Aren’t there considerations for what kind of coping material, stone, etc you have?
 
SWG might be smart.
You would really like it. Once you have a SWG, you will never want to have a pool without one.

Aren’t there considerations for what kind of coping material, stone, etc you have?
No special considerations. Poor quality materials will deteriorate regardless of salinity level. Bad chemistry will also damage materials and equipment. The low salinity required to operate a SWG is practically insignificant. You might have a surprising amount of salt in your water right now.
 
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Update- Been reading a bunch on here and got the Taylor K-2006 test kit tonight. Here are updated numbers and plan. FWIW, pool cleared up yesterday....after looking at numbers, I believe I finally got the FC number up high enough to compensate for elevated CYA and it sorted itself out.

pH: 7.8
FC: 9
CC: .2
TA: 150
CH: 400
CYA: 130
Temp: 85F

Plan to drain/replace roughly 55% of water, which should take care of CYA and CH numbers. Once it's refilled, I'll get the pH and TA in order, then SLAM. Going liquid chlorine going forward, with Cal-Hypo for shock only.

Talked to pool builder and he says even with recent rain, draining 50% won't be an issue with floating the shell.

Open to thoughts and suggestions, thanks in advance!
Ok, things are looking up!
Drained/replaced a little over half of the water, circulated for a few hours and re-tested.

pH: 7.8
FC: .5
CC: 0
TA:170
CH:350
CYA:60
Temp: 86F

Added acid to drop the pH, will aerate to drop TA. Liquid chlorine to bring the FC up. I think I am in workable territory now. Water looks beautiful.
 
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