I’m new. Fiberglass pool was installed in October 2020 and was just open long enough to get the deck installed; then we closed it and covered it with a loop loc. My final test results before closing for winter are below, but I am not sure I’m great at testing. I’ve always been a little confused about the CYA test though. The instructions say to watch for the dot to disappear. Does that mean that it’s impossible to see at all from the top? Or does that mean it’s kinda hazy? Does it disappear altogether? Or just for a brief second until things settle then it comes back kinda hazy? The dot didn’t disappear at all today, though it did get hazy momentarily. Does that mean my CYA is below 30 (the lowest line on my test kit)?
CYA - Define “disappear” please
- Thread starter JessM
- Start date
- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,918
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Try this - back to the sun 
Tube waist high
Fill to 1st line - glance
If still u see the dot - go to the next line, glance & so on.
You can pour it back in the squeeze bottle & re do the pouring as many times as u need. I usually do an average of 3.
The dot should disappear when u glance.
Don’t stare
You could add 10ppm of cya (sock method) listed here under cya
www.troublefreepool.com
so u don’t over shoot incase u have 20 -30 ppm or so already.
And retest in a few days.
Tube waist high
Fill to 1st line - glance
If still u see the dot - go to the next line, glance & so on.
You can pour it back in the squeeze bottle & re do the pouring as many times as u need. I usually do an average of 3.
The dot should disappear when u glance.
Don’t stare
You could add 10ppm of cya (sock method) listed here under cya
Recommended Pool Chemicals
Which should I buy? TFP's recommended pool chemicals are cheap, easy, and won't unbalance your pool water.
www.troublefreepool.com
And retest in a few days.
Last edited:
Thank you, Mdragger. I did read several other posts with folks having the same dot problems I have. Several people say “room temp water.” So do I leave the pool water sample in my house for a bit to warm up? It’s still chilly here in OK. The pool water is about 60 degrees. Is that too cold to get accurate results?
This is from Taylor Technologies.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,918
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Room temp or higher is best - i cheat & sit the bottle in my spa for a bit If its cold (any excuse to use the hot tub)
Since it did cloud some you definitely have some cya just not measurable.
All the other tests are unaffected by temp. & should be performed soon after gathering the sample.
This is why i buy the big bottle of cya regeant- I don’t wanna worry about running out if I need to test frequently at the beginning of the season.
Thanks HermanTX. I’ve never had the dot disappear, but apparently I didn’t do the dance right (stand up outside in the sun, back to sun, tube at waist level, don’t stare - just glance, don’t shake - just swirl, let it rest before looking, etc.). It’s almost funny to read all the little tips, except I feel getting CYA right is vital so right now I’m just drowning in tips. Later when I get all the extra steps down I’m definitely going to laugh about the hokey-pokey moves a person has to do to test CYA.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,918
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
- Mar 5, 2020
- 3,093
- Pool Size
- 66000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Astral Viron V35
Is your chlorine holding? If you add chlorine to bring it to target FC according to PoolMath, and you test after 30 mins with the pump running - does FC show more or less the expected level? Or does it drop back to zero?
Hi, MGTFP. To be real honest we JUST removed the cover and started vacuuming. I started testing with CYA because in my understanding if CYA isn’t right the chlorine won’t last, so my plan is to attack CYA, then PH, and then add bleach. Except I’m nervous about trusting this CYA test. And so I’m stuck in ignorance due to inexperience, hoping someone on TFP will tell me what to do next. 
Should I go ahead and add the bleach?
Should I go ahead and add the bleach?
- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,918
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
List all your results-
Fc
Cc
Ph
Ta
Ch
Cya
You need 5ppm of fc lest things will grow as your pool is now un covered & the water temp is rising.
Get the 10ppm stabilizer going in the sock- run the pump overnight so you can test cya again tomorrow.
the rest depends on results
Fc
Cc
Ph
Ta
Ch
Cya
You need 5ppm of fc lest things will grow as your pool is now un covered & the water temp is rising.
Get the 10ppm stabilizer going in the sock- run the pump overnight so you can test cya again tomorrow.
the rest depends on results
I think once you actually have CYA then it becomes easier to do the right dance. Be fortunate you are on the low end of the spectrum as many first timers say they cannot see the dot after putting in 1 squirt.Thanks HermanTX. I’ve never had the dot disappear, but apparently I didn’t do the dance right (stand up outside in the sun, back to sun, tube at waist level, don’t stare - just glance, don’t shake - just swirl, let it rest before looking, etc.). It’s almost funny to read all the little tips, except I feel getting CYA right is vital so right now I’m just drowning in tips. Later when I get all the extra steps down I’m definitely going to laugh about the hokey-pokey moves a person has to do to test CYA.
- Mar 5, 2020
- 3,093
- Pool Size
- 66000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Astral Viron V35
I was asking if your chlorine was holding, because both your FC and CYA are zero. Something that sometimes happens over winter when FC is allowed to drop to zero is, that certain soil bacteria feast on CYA and turn it into ammonia, leaving no CYA behind. If that happens, every bit of chlorine that gets added will instantly oxidize the ammonia. The signature for that is adding bleach that vanishes again pretty much immediately. In this case, you first have to add a lot of chlorine to neutralize the ammonia. You don't want to add more CYA before that.
It's probably not what happened, but it might be a good idea to add 10ppm of chlorine and test after 30min. If most of that chlorine shows after 30min, then all is good.
Chlorine should always be you first priority, before you worry about pH or CYA.
It's probably not what happened, but it might be a good idea to add 10ppm of chlorine and test after 30min. If most of that chlorine shows after 30min, then all is good.
Chlorine should always be you first priority, before you worry about pH or CYA.
Last edited:
- Mar 5, 2020
- 3,093
- Pool Size
- 66000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Astral Viron V35
Another thing to consider: Did you let your pump run for a good while before you tested your water? There might be a good layer of rain water and/or melted snow in the top layers of your water. You want to make sure that that's well mixed in before running any tests.
Mgtfp- I had NOT let the pump for a lot of hours before that first test. That is a great point through. Today when I tested I HAD let the pump run for about 7 hours first.
My chlorine seems to be holding somewhat. It’s been cloudy here though. I don’t live in town; I’m about 35 minutes from a store (pool or otherwise), and this weekend I had TWO family graduation parties to set up. I didn’t make it to town to pick up materials. Pool is clear and clean, but I know I’m skating on thin ice here.
Tomorrow I’ll be back in town for work and will pick up CYA and use the sock method to add 10 ppm as you all suggested. I’ll also pick up Borax because Pool Math told me too. You will see I added cal hypo instead of bleach. My pool builder is the pool manufacturer. He is one of two in my state who makes *and* installs fiberglass pools. He swears cal hypo is the way to go and says he has used it for more than a decade in his fiberglass pool (that he made and installed). But every single other person I’ve talked to about cal hypo says don’t use it. However, I had already bought it, so even though I hoped to go to just straight bleach this summer, I’ll go through this tub of cal hypo first. Should I get my FC to five?
My chlorine seems to be holding somewhat. It’s been cloudy here though. I don’t live in town; I’m about 35 minutes from a store (pool or otherwise), and this weekend I had TWO family graduation parties to set up. I didn’t make it to town to pick up materials. Pool is clear and clean, but I know I’m skating on thin ice here.
Tomorrow I’ll be back in town for work and will pick up CYA and use the sock method to add 10 ppm as you all suggested. I’ll also pick up Borax because Pool Math told me too. You will see I added cal hypo instead of bleach. My pool builder is the pool manufacturer. He is one of two in my state who makes *and* installs fiberglass pools. He swears cal hypo is the way to go and says he has used it for more than a decade in his fiberglass pool (that he made and installed). But every single other person I’ve talked to about cal hypo says don’t use it. However, I had already bought it, so even though I hoped to go to just straight bleach this summer, I’ll go through this tub of cal hypo first. Should I get my FC to five?
Attachments
- Mar 5, 2020
- 3,093
- Pool Size
- 66000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Astral Viron V35
OK, sounds like your're on the right track. Some chlorine is holding, which means you don't have ammonia, and after letting the pump run, it looks like you have some CYA left. Add CYA in 10ppm increments until you are at 30ppm and have a clear reading. Then you can go to your target level from there.
And yes, I would bump FC up to 5ppm.
You should test the CH of your pool and your fill water. If it is low, then a little cal-hypo from time to time won't hurt. But I wouldn't use it as your standard way of chlorination, that should be liquid chlorine (or a salt water chlorine generator). If your CH is high and/or your fill water is also high in CH, then you don't want to add any extra calcium
If your calcium is very low, then you could use up the cal-hypo that you already have until you reach the acceptable range for an FG pool.
Your pH is fine, no need to add Borax. As long as your pH is in the 7s, it.s OK. Usually it will creep up on its own, anyway.
And yes, I would bump FC up to 5ppm.
You should test the CH of your pool and your fill water. If it is low, then a little cal-hypo from time to time won't hurt. But I wouldn't use it as your standard way of chlorination, that should be liquid chlorine (or a salt water chlorine generator). If your CH is high and/or your fill water is also high in CH, then you don't want to add any extra calcium
If your calcium is very low, then you could use up the cal-hypo that you already have until you reach the acceptable range for an FG pool.
Your pH is fine, no need to add Borax. As long as your pH is in the 7s, it.s OK. Usually it will creep up on its own, anyway.
Either I’m a horrible tester (likely) or my pool water is wonky (also likely). I added the calcium hardness test (because mgftp told me to get on it ), but got 90, which seems low. In fact Pool Math wants me to add 93 pounds of calcium chloride. Can that be right?
And today my chlorine was toast! Gone! We are getting a full sun afternoon whereas the last two days (when chlorine held) we were mostly cloudy. Getting on that sock method tonight for CYA.
Did I do the CH test right? Are the pics below “red” and then “blue” like they are supposed to be or am I not judging color correctly. I’m at standing with my back to the sun in pics.
You guys are amazingly helpful. One of you want to come to OK to get my pool opened properly?
), but got 90, which seems low. In fact Pool Math wants me to add 93 pounds of calcium chloride. Can that be right?And today my chlorine was toast! Gone! We are getting a full sun afternoon whereas the last two days (when chlorine held) we were mostly cloudy. Getting on that sock method tonight for CYA.
Did I do the CH test right? Are the pics below “red” and then “blue” like they are supposed to be or am I not judging color correctly. I’m at standing with my back to the sun in pics.
You guys are amazingly helpful. One of you want to come to OK to get my pool opened properly?
Attachments
- Mar 5, 2020
- 3,093
- Pool Size
- 66000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Astral Viron V35
I think you can trust your test results. And for the same test with the water you use to top up the pool, then we'll know if you keep adding calcium with your water.
Don't add any calcium chloride for now. Low CH is only really critical for plaster pools. CH has some importance for the gel coat of FG pools, but I don't have experience with them. Maybe someone like @Texas Splash will chime in.
I would say there is no rush to increase CH, and that your current level allows you to go through the cal-hypo that you already have. Then switch to liquid chlorine.
Focus for now on increasing FC and getting a bit more CYA in.
Don't add any calcium chloride for now. Low CH is only really critical for plaster pools. CH has some importance for the gel coat of FG pools, but I don't have experience with them. Maybe someone like @Texas Splash will chime in.
I would say there is no rush to increase CH, and that your current level allows you to go through the cal-hypo that you already have. Then switch to liquid chlorine.
Focus for now on increasing FC and getting a bit more CYA in.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,960
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Jess, it looks like you're getting the hang of things there. Definitely keep that FC higher to avoid algae, and continue to tweak the CYA a bit as recommended above. Good advise up there all-around. As for the CH, by all accounts CH shouldn't be a big issue for us FG owners, however there have been a few owners who indicated CH helped to prevent certain stains and perhaps some chalkiness issues. That's why you'll see some general recommendation to have a minimum level of CH. You could use a little more CH, but before doing so, please confirm for us which water sample size you used to get a CH of 90. Just so we know the math was right. 
I typically use the 10 ml sample size method, but for those with a low CH the 25 ML is sometimes used. Now if you did your drops and math correctly to get a CH of 90, you could benefit from a little more calcium. Your second pic of baby blue was the better color at the end-point of the test. But also be sure to test your fill water because if that's hard, your CH will climb this season. You mentioned cal-hypo, so go ahead and use that for a while. Once your CH gets about 150-200 I'd stop using it though.
I typically use the 10 ml sample size method, but for those with a low CH the 25 ML is sometimes used. Now if you did your drops and math correctly to get a CH of 90, you could benefit from a little more calcium. Your second pic of baby blue was the better color at the end-point of the test. But also be sure to test your fill water because if that's hard, your CH will climb this season. You mentioned cal-hypo, so go ahead and use that for a while. Once your CH gets about 150-200 I'd stop using it though.
I see you are using the Taylor 2006 test kit but this video produced by TFT can be very helpful to give you confidence in testing. The pool samples and test process is identical. And as noted by @Texas Splash you can use either a 25ml or a 10ml water sample to test CH. So just ensure you are using the right amount of drops depending on your sample size.
www.youtube.com
Also, testing your tap water can help you gain confidence in your test process because you focus on TA and CH mainly. There is no CYA in tap water and there should be minimum (1ppm or less) FC in tap water. This way, you know what you are putting in your pool due to evaporation or splash out.
You have not mentioned but if you would have a water softener connected to your home then you would need to determine if you are using softened water or standard tap water for your fill water to your pool.
TF100TestKit
The TF-100 sets the standard for excellence in Pool Testing Kits. It contains 7 separate tests to give you accurate readings on each important pool water par...
www.youtube.com
Also, testing your tap water can help you gain confidence in your test process because you focus on TA and CH mainly. There is no CYA in tap water and there should be minimum (1ppm or less) FC in tap water. This way, you know what you are putting in your pool due to evaporation or splash out.
You have not mentioned but if you would have a water softener connected to your home then you would need to determine if you are using softened water or standard tap water for your fill water to your pool.
Hi, @Texas Splash. I used the 25 ml test to test for CH.
@HermanTX - I will test my tap water this evening. I’m on rural water out in the country in Oklahoma. I always thought I had hard water here. I’ll find out for sure tonight! We do not have a water softener.
Thanks for the link. I’ll check it out tonight.
@mgtfp - Thank you again for helping. I’m going to hold off on adding calcium chloride and see how the cal-hypo changes things over the next week or so. I am about to go out to do my evening test. I hope I see a cya difference since my addition.
@HermanTX - I will test my tap water this evening. I’m on rural water out in the country in Oklahoma. I always thought I had hard water here. I’ll find out for sure tonight! We do not have a water softener.
Thanks for the link. I’ll check it out tonight.
@mgtfp - Thank you again for helping. I’m going to hold off on adding calcium chloride and see how the cal-hypo changes things over the next week or so. I am about to go out to do my evening test. I hope I see a cya difference since my addition.