CYA alternate test methods?

[ajw22]

I wish they had a drop test for CYA and PH !


26700 gal, vinyl, SWG, Hayward Goldline controls, T-15 Cell, 20gpm/ft2 sand filter, 1 hp pump , Taylor K-2006 test kit

For PH you can use a PH meter Waterproof Pocket pH Tester with 0.1 Resolution - pHep® - HI98107 - Hanna Instruments or pH Meter . You just need to keep it clean and calibrate it monthly with standard solutions.

 

[kellyfair]

Follow this method to test CYA:

In sunlight, back to the sun, fill tube to first line. Quick glance, don’t stare! Still see dot? Fill to next line, quick glance. Still see dot? Repeat. The first line where you don’t see dot with a QUICK glance is your CYA. Maintain proper FC level accordingly.

If dot never disappears, you have little to no CYA. Use the sock method to add more.

Highly recommend a read through Pool School, link at the top of the page. Start with the ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry.

 

[Trex48]

Kellyfair, I was wondering why no one had mentioned the 'glance test.' I'd done the 'stare test' for two years before you educated me last month!

 

[simonoaks]

Also, I was given some good advice on changing the test tube from the standard Taylor one:

http://tftestkits.net/CYA-View-Tube-p61.html

For me, the big issue is the way the square 'tube' focuses light into the middle and thus blocks the black dot with reflection. Seriously the worst design I have ever seen for something that requires VIEWING the bottom. It is like someone thought ' what would be the worst possible shape to use , to make it impossible to see the black dot at the bottom' lol

 

[cantplay]

Also, I was given some good advice on changing the test tube from the standard Taylor one:

http://tftestkits.net/CYA-View-Tube-p61.html

For me, the big issue is the way the square 'tube' focuses light into the middle and thus blocks the black dot with reflection. Seriously the worst design I have ever seen for something that requires VIEWING the bottom. It is like someone thought ' what would be the worst possible shape to use , to make it impossible to see the black dot at the bottom' lol

Right. Is that a reflection of my head or black dot? ugh I will try glance method.

 

[PoolGate]

Right. Is that a reflection of my head or black dot? ugh I will try glance method.

Most people that get the standard 50ppm solution still see the black dot. Knowing what 50ppm is however, helps immensely though. Here is a pic that I did with the 50ppm standard solution. I did the test twice, looked indoors and out and this is what I see every time. So this is now what I look for when testing my own water. Based on chlorine loss in my pool, I am reading my tests accurately while the dot is still visible.

 

[Scout101]

Yep, this is the test I hate the most out of all of them. So much guessing and interpretation, and negative consequences if you guess wrong! I always pour it back in the bottle, swirl it around, and retest like 3-4 times to make sure I'm getting an average that matched my first guess (or not). Even then, it's flaky. Per the pic, I'd have guessed "almost, but needs another squirt or two" before it was gone. Gotta stick with the split second glance and not over think it, I guess.

 

[ajw22]

Kowning your CYA +/- 10 is good enough. There is nothing in pool chemistry that needs to be very precise. Just keep your levels within the middle of the recommended ranges.

 

[PoolGate]

Yep, this is the test I hate the most out of all of them. So much guessing and interpretation, and negative consequences if you guess wrong! I always pour it back in the bottle, swirl it around, and retest like 3-4 times to make sure I'm getting an average that matched my first guess (or not). Even then, it's flaky. Per the pic, I'd have guessed "almost, but needs another squirt or two" before it was gone. Gotta stick with the split second glance and not over think it, I guess.

Apparently if you stand on one foot, do 3 back-flips, go to the exact GPS coordinates in your yard (like geo-caching), make sure you look during the vernal equinox at the correct declination of the setting sun, and sprinkle unicorn dust on the ground you will see the dot disappear on the 50 part standard solution. Or you can just accept that you will see the dot.

 

[Rossterman]

As mentioned, consider your cya is low now and begin bumping it up in 20ppm increments while checking with your test kit. Use the sock method in the skimmer and give it a few days before testing so that material has enough time to dissolve (verify by checking sock to be sure). Best not to overshoot as draining water isnt fun. As to pool stores, there is no universal rule that they aren’t trustworthy. Case in point my nearby mom and pop shop is excellent. Leslie’s most commonly gets bad reviews. I think it is a combination of high empolyee turnover, low wages, and corporate selling tactics that most often result in a bad experience. That being said, the one nearest me is OK but my experience varies by who’s behind the counter each time. Sometimes they are knowledgable and other times I’m explaining thier own products to them...

 

[shanebo]

Per the pic, I'd have guessed "almost, but needs another squirt or two" before it was gone. Gotta stick with the split second glance and not over think it, I guess.

Was thinking the same thing, lol ... Gonna have to retest my CYA tonight based on this new info!

 

[calstar]

Follow this method to test CYA:

In sunlight, back to the sun, fill tube to first line. Quick glance, don’t stare! Still see dot? Fill to next line, quick glance. Still see dot? Repeat. The first line where you don’t see dot with a QUICK glance is your CYA. Maintain proper FC level accordingly.

If dot never disappears, you have little to no CYA. Use the sock method to add more.

Highly recommend a read through Pool School, link at the top of the page. Start with the ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry.

Didn't know that the glance is how it's done, thanks. Brian

 

[LeighHop]

PoolGate - Thank you for that pic, very helpful for me!

 

[kellyfair]

I learned about glancing from Kimkats! I wish the official instructions were more clear about that.

I do not stress over the CYA test. I do it quick, make decision based on a glance, and move on!

 

[Dodger]

Also, I was given some good advice on changing the test tube from the standard Taylor one:

http://tftestkits.net/CYA-View-Tube-p61.html

For me, the big issue is the way the square 'tube' focuses light into the middle and thus blocks the black dot with reflection. Seriously the worst design I have ever seen for something that requires VIEWING the bottom. It is like someone thought ' what would be the worst possible shape to use , to make it impossible to see the black dot at the bottom' lol

I use this round one AND the square one in the 9056 Taylor comparator. I re-pour the solution into each of the tubes 2-3 times and take an "average" using the glance method. I find the round one and the 9056 can read about 10ppm different from each other. So comparing between these 2 tubes helps me settle on the value.

 

[dschribs]

This might help. It should what a "completed" test looks like.

Why Monitor Cyanuric Acid?

 

[Dodger]

Most people that get the standard 50ppm solution still see the black dot. Knowing what 50ppm is however, helps immensely though. Here is a pic that I did with the 50ppm standard solution. I did the test twice, looked indoors and out and this is what I see every time. So this is now what I look for when testing my own water. Based on chlorine loss in my pool, I am reading my tests accurately while the dot is still visible.

I have to say that my standard solution from TF Testkits does not show the dot this well at 50ppm. But I agree with everyone that having the std solution to build your CYA test reading skill is really helpful. Doing them side by side in your lighting and your testing tube is the best way to calibrate your process.