Critique new plumbing before I glue it up please

May 14, 2017
9
PA
#1
I had to replace a 10 year old pump and multiport valve and seek your opinion on the layout before I glue it up.

NewPlumbing.jpg

I am considering replacing my chlorinator with a SWG on the horizontal 32" return line after the heater. Any advice on the SWG in the 32" line?

I am going to insert the check valve on the pump outlet in that 16" horizontal.

Pump inlet is a 25" run.

I might push the filter/pump back towards the house a bit because the backwash outlet is conflicting with the vertical return line coming out of the heater.

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Forgot two items...

For the potential SWG v Chlorinator... I bought both and will return one.

If I go SWG, I got a sacrificial anode since it was comparatively cheap. Where do you suggest I put that?

What do you think of tight 90* vs long 90* fittings? You can see I have a long 90 penciled in for outlet of the pump and outlet of the multi-port. Original installer used regular 90s.
 

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duraleigh

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Apr 1, 2007
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Sebring, Florida
#2
Welcome to the forum:wave:

What nice, descriptive graphics!! Easy to follow.

1. Sweep 90's - most of those are DWV and not schedule 40. Most pro's do not use the sweeps in a pressure setting. I think they look cool but the difference in resistance is negligible, if any, so most will suggest you use the sched 40 90's

2. What made you decide to do a check valve. Would you consider putting it on the 25" intake to the pump? Might make it easier to "hold prime".

3. Most everyone here will suggest the SWG over the inline chlorinator. SWG's are very convenient if a little pricey up front.

4. I have no opinion on the placement or necessity of a sacrificial anode.
 
May 14, 2017
9
PA
#5
Thanks duraleigh.

1. Sweep 90's - most of those are DWV and not schedule 40. Most pro's do not use the sweeps in a pressure setting. I think they look cool but the difference in resistance is negligible, if any, so most will suggest you use the sched 40 90's
Hmm, I just assumed they were sched 40 but maybe not. I'll check again.

2. What made you decide to do a check valve. Would you consider putting it on the 25" intake to the pump? Might make it easier to "hold prime".
I did the check because that was what was there from the original install. That is the only reason so if it isn't adding value, I'll skip it.

3. Most everyone here will suggest the SWG over the inline chlorinator. SWG's are very convenient if a little pricey up front.
My kids heard I got one and are pushing me to keep it :) I had trouble with the original chlorinator because of problems with a little thing called fluid dynamics and the lack of differential pressure.

4. I have no opinion on the placement or necessity of a sacrificial anode.
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Isn't the SWG supposed to be plumbed inline BEFORE the heater?
I believe the SWG needs to be after the heater.....minimum of 12in.
I vaguely recall that the SWG goes after the heater and needs a nice straight run prior but forget the specifics. I think maybe the anode goes before? I need to look this up in more detail.
 

Jimrahbe

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Jul 7, 2014
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Bedford, TX
#6
Henry,

I'm puzzled by the gate valve just after your Intake valve.. between the Jandy valve and the IntelliFlo..

If your goal is to introduce air into the pump it should work well. :cool:

If the goal is to be able to drain the pool, then you have it on the wrong side of the pump...

Jim R.
 

gullzway

Well-known member
Nov 12, 2009
104
Tulsa,OK
#7
I just installed a heat pump on my pool last week. From everything I researched, the check valve should be after the heater, before the SWG to prevent flow back through the heater. That is how I plumbed mine.

Edit: This is from my heat pump manual
"WARNING: Install a check valve and/or a Hartford loop AFTER the heat pump pool heater and BEFORE any chlorinating devices. Install any automatic chemical feeders AFTER the heat pump pool heater."

Looks like the check valve AND SWG need to be on your horizontal 32" line. The check valve will not work on the 15" line after the heater because it is flowing Down.
 
May 14, 2017
9
PA
#8
I'm puzzled by the gate valve just after your Intake valve.. between the Jandy valve and the IntelliFlo..
That has a hose bib on it. Maybe they put it in for air compressor or something for winterization. I always open the pool myself but pay to close it. I'm in freeze zone so a mistake closing could have me jack-hammering the concrete deck up.
 

pooldv

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#9
Yes, the SWG should be installed after the heater. Actually, to be more correct the SWG should be the last thing installed before going back to the pool. A check valve is not required with an SWG, it is only needed with a puck chlorinator. I would put the SWG in the 32" line.
 
May 14, 2017
9
PA
#10
I just installed a heat pump on my pool last week. From everything I researched, the check valve should be after the heater, before the SWG to prevent flow back through the heater. That is how I plumbed mine.
...
Looks like the check valve AND SWG need to be on your horizontal 32" line. The check valve will not work on the 15" line after the heater because it is flowing Down.
There is still the original check valve on the outlet of the heater. I'll check/rebuild the flapper. Not enough exposed piping to cut it out and replace.
 

gullzway

Well-known member
Nov 12, 2009
104
Tulsa,OK
#12
There is still the original check valve on the outlet of the heater. I'll check/rebuild the flapper. Not enough exposed piping to cut it out and replace.
OK, in that case I would install the SWG in the 32" line and call it good. As someone else mentioned, maybe install the check valve on the pump suction to prevent prime loss, but not really necessary.

Out of curiosity, what is that Black thing on top of a PVC line next to the heater that looks like power is ran to it? I have seen a few in pictures and have no clue what it is.