I have separate plumbing for my pool and spa, each with its own heater and its own SWG. I recently had my pools and spa resurfaced with fresh Diamond Brite, and the contractor did an extremely low pH acid wash which he wanted me to leave for three days. Ignoring the pros and cons of my situation, in a pinch I re-spliced my plumbing to exclude the heaters and SWGs while the water was very acidic. But next week I will want to repair my system. After and before photos below.
Having said that, when I do the repair, I figure I might as well create a manual bypass for the future in case its needed again. But I have a few questions:
1) Do I want to bypass both the heaters and SWG, or should I only bypass the heater? The former is certainly easier using my existing piping, but it might be more useful to have the heater bypassed with the SWG still inline. If I have another high acid situation, I could swap in PVC pipe for the SWG and not have to worry about the asset while I bypass the heater.
2) I assume I create the bypass with a 3-way valve and a check valve to prevent back flow to the heater if bypassed. Correct? This seems to be the valve I need: https://www.amazon.com/Zodiac-4717-...andy+3+way+valve+2+inch&qid=1652413741&sr=8-5
3) What is the best way to do this with my existing piping? Right now I have check valves in place on the outflow form my heaters, so if I am not bypassing the SWG, I should be able to just add the 3-way valves. Its more complicated if I am bypassing the SWG too, because the check valves would need to be relocated. The difficult connections are the PVC joints/unions with the SWG and the inflow/outflow from the heaters, as well as my Jandy Valve and actuator that controls my waterfall. I believe buying replacements for these unions may be expensive and more difficult than simply buying PVC and elbows.
Having said that, when I do the repair, I figure I might as well create a manual bypass for the future in case its needed again. But I have a few questions:
1) Do I want to bypass both the heaters and SWG, or should I only bypass the heater? The former is certainly easier using my existing piping, but it might be more useful to have the heater bypassed with the SWG still inline. If I have another high acid situation, I could swap in PVC pipe for the SWG and not have to worry about the asset while I bypass the heater.
2) I assume I create the bypass with a 3-way valve and a check valve to prevent back flow to the heater if bypassed. Correct? This seems to be the valve I need: https://www.amazon.com/Zodiac-4717-...andy+3+way+valve+2+inch&qid=1652413741&sr=8-5
3) What is the best way to do this with my existing piping? Right now I have check valves in place on the outflow form my heaters, so if I am not bypassing the SWG, I should be able to just add the 3-way valves. Its more complicated if I am bypassing the SWG too, because the check valves would need to be relocated. The difficult connections are the PVC joints/unions with the SWG and the inflow/outflow from the heaters, as well as my Jandy Valve and actuator that controls my waterfall. I believe buying replacements for these unions may be expensive and more difficult than simply buying PVC and elbows.
