Couple of Questions on Algae and Clarifiers

[Seadweller]

I just tested my water, and the balance is dead on, so I'm not going to post the gory details. I'm still getting some algae appearing in spots, and I don't know why. Perhaps I'm not getting enough turns of the water, but chemically, the water is perfect. I still need to work on tackling this, but I do have a couple of questions:

1. Is there a chlorine level over which a maintenance algaecide will not work? My chlorine level is at 8.
2. I seem to constantly have a "dust" on the pool floor. Don't know if it's dead algae, airborne stuff, or what, but every time I brush the pool, I see a "dust" disperse in the water. I only run my pool cleaner a few times a week. Do water clarifiers work, or is that another voodoo product?

Thanks!

 

[PoolStored]

Hey! Welcome back. The likelihood is that you have algae.

Water "turns" really don't matter. Algaecide will not kill algae.

I suggest you do an OCLT tonight. Read here-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test If you lose more than 1ppm, that is a clear indicator you have algae.

If you lose more than one, the fix is to SLAM your pool. Read here--> SLAM Process

 

[jeffchap]

The root cause of algae is a lack of chlorine. Unlike pools stores, here at TFP we recognize the relationship between FC and CYA (stabilizer). So it's impossible to say whether FC at 8 is enough without knowing the CYA. Since you have algae, obviously it's not.

Usually the reason is that you've been using chlorine tabs or powdered shock. These all contain CYA. As the FC is consumed, the CYA remains and the level rises until it becomes impractical to add enough chlorine to keep algae at bay. This is why we only add the desired amount of CYA then only use liquid forms of chlorine, which do not add CYA.

In order for us to help you, you'll need to obtain one of two approved test kits that can supply all the values we need. We don't not rely upon pool store testing as it is often wildly inaccurate. Test Kits Compared

While you're waiting for your test kit to arrive, add 5 ppm of chlorine in the form of liquid pool shock or plain laundry bleach. You can use our Pool Math app or webpage to determine how much bleach to use. PoolMath

This will keep things from getting any worse. Don't add anything else for now - no clarifiers, algaecides, etc. These can cause other problems. Just chlorine is the answer to your problems.

Read up on the TFP method in Pool School to fully understand what we do and why it works. Pool School

Post the results for the following tests once your kit arrives and we'll make further suggestions then.

FC
CC
CYA
pH
TA

 

[Seadweller]

Post the results for the following tests once your kit arrives and we'll make further suggestions then.

FC
CC
CYA
pH
TA

If you insist...

FC = 10
CC = 0
CYA = 60
pH = 7.6
TA = 80

Please note that I do have a full test kit and haven't used the pool store for testing in years. This is a salt pool, and when necessary, I only add shock without CYA. I have this problem every summer, where algae appears despite what I consider an ideal chemical balance, unless perhaps the FC needs to be higher to accommodate the higher CYA called for in a salt pool. I'd really like to end this struggle.

 

[ajw22]

Post pics of your pool.

Do you have any water bowls around your pool that splash into the pool?

 

[tim5055]

If you insist...

FC = 10
CC = 0
CYA = 60
pH = 7.6
TA = 80

Please note that I do have a full test kit and haven't used the pool store for testing in years. This is a salt pool, and when necessary, I only add shock without CYA. I have this problem every summer, where algae appears despite what I consider an ideal chemical balance, unless perhaps the FC needs to be higher to accommodate the higher CYA called for in a salt pool. I'd really like to end this struggle.

It's simple, you said you see algae. You need to SLAM the pool.

Turns of water have noting to do with it. It's maintaining the correct level of chlorine for your CYA level. For a 60 CYA in a salt pool your target FC is 4. You are well above that at 10. But, the SLAM level is 24. So, you are killing algae, but your FC is just not high enough to kill it all. You seem to be in that sweet spot of the algae reproducing at about the same rate it's being killed so you are in a never ending cycle.

Turn off the SWCG and use liquid chlorine only.

SLAM the pool and continue until all three things happen:

• CC is 0.5 or lower;
• You pass an OCLT (ie overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less);
• The water is clear. (including no visible algae)

When all three are true, you are done SLAMing and can allow the FC to drift down to normal levels and turn the SWCG back on.

SLAM - Shock Level and Maintain

We’ve all had to deal with a green pool. Clear algae from your pool with a SLAM! Read here to use shock level and maintain to clear your pool.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[jeffchap]

I had to perform a SLAM earlier this year when my SWG quit. Even with FC at 32 (CYA @ 80) I had algae on the walls that just wouldn't go away until I brushed it. I've never needed to brush before, but this stuff was persistent. Have you tried brushing?

 

[Seadweller]

Thanks everyone! Just to be clear, should I still SLAM the pool with CC's at 0? The FC has never dropped below 6, which is why I'm puzzled that algae is appearing. I actually stayed ahead of the curve as the water warmed, so that's why I'm perplexed.

Oh, and yes, I do brush the pool, but certainly not religiously.

 

[jeffchap]

If you have algae, yes, you need to SLAM.

 

[tim5055]

CC is a symptom of algae that may or may not be there.

You said you saw algae, time to SLAM