Correct chlorine levels during summer

Bass Player

New member
Mar 30, 2020
4
Jupiter Farms, Florida
Hey guys, below are my current numbers:

PH: 7.8
TA: 80
CH: 425
CYA: 40
FC: ????? (suggested 3-7ppm)
Plaster Pool
Exposed pool (no screen)
Location: South Florida

So my main issue is that according to application I need to keep my FC chlorine levels between 3-7. I have noticed that I lose approximately 1-2 ppm of FC per day in summer so let's say I add some more every few days to keep my FC at the higher spectrum of the chart so let's say 7-10 ppm. Winter is not a big deal, everything goes according to plan. My main issue is the Dang COLOR of the water during the summer months when it rains a lot. Let me explain; I have an older plaster pool that needs to be resurfaced. As a result, the color of the water is often turquoise and border line blue. I have been successful getting a nice blue color occasionally (in summer time) but it is often turquoise and I think it is because of the algae. If my pool had a new bluish coating you would not be able to notice that much the difference but this thing is driving me crazy. I have 2 questions:

1. Do you guys shock often during summer months in the South when it rains a lot? Normal suggested FC levels do not seem to cut it.
2. Are people that picky with the water color when you have a nice diamond brite coating? In other words does it mask small algae issues?
 
Following tfp methods does not require regular shocking. I have never shocked my pool in 6 seasons of ownership. Proper testing and chlorine levels will ensure you don't have to shock your pool. Check out pool school.
 
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I've never shocked my pool and no amount of algae would be acceptable to me. With your CYA at 40, you need 5-7ppm of FC (using the chlorine/CYA chart for reference) assuming you're using liquid chlorine. Many people add liquid chlorine daily during the summer to maintain their FC at safe levels.

And yes, I'm picky about having crystal clear water which is why I test my water often and never let my FC drop below recommend levels - even for a day.
 
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The foundation of TFP is a quality test kit and home testing.
Keeping your FC well in the target zone for your CYA FC/CYA Levels keeps algae from getting startrd.
Adding liquid or gas chlorine every day is key to keeping your FC levels in your target zone and not letting it fall below risking algae.
TFP supports eradicating algae and always maintaing proper sanitation levels, never masking algae.

If you have a proper test kit with the FAS-DPD chlorine test then diagnose your water for algae with an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. If you fail then gear up for a SLAM Process.

Here are a few short vids to watch.







 
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You need to get into Pool Maths head. Pool math is assuming you are testing at adding time. And if you are reading minimum (3) and going to add immediately to 7, everything is fine. But if you are starting with 3/4/5 after adding, you will find yourself below minimum at times and headed down the road to Swampville. So PoolMath is right. Finishing at 3-7 is totally fine. Starting is not.

Many like to overshoot target and fall into target range with their daily FC loss. They remain free and clear from minimum FC and have no issues.
 
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