Converting to salt...part II

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The pool is swimmable now so I would just turn on the SWG at 50% and run the pumps at 12hrs/day and see what happens. If the FC stabilizes or increases slowly, you can shave off pump runtime.

Also, play with your speed settings on the VSP to see when the flow switch cuts off on the SWG. You should not be running the pump at full RPMs, it's a waste.
 
you tell me... I'm the noob here!

For clarification, when the main pump runs it provides water to the spa floor return, which causes the spillway to go into the pool. The pool returns (4x), skimmers (2x), and main floor drains are also active. The boost pump comes on for 90minutes to run the cleaner, and the tanning ledge comes on for an hour during the day to move that water around a bit.

The PB set it at 2200. What would you recommend?
 
Yeah, PBs typically set it just to get everything running but that's not typically optimal.

Spoiler Alert - Your running your spa spillway way too much.

I know PBs tell you that you must keep your spa circulated at all times. It's simply not true and the spillway is causing lots of aeration of your pool water which drives up pH. The excess splashing is also going to form a lot evaporite and scale on the tile face on the outside of the spa. I keep a bubble cover on my spa and I only run the spillway for 1 hr/day. Then again, I also automated my spillway valve which makes scheduling it a lot easier.

If you cut down on your spillway run times, I'll bet you'd be able to dial back your VSP quite a bit. When not running the spillway, my VSP can run at 1600rpm and still generate chlorine. That's a big difference in electrical usage.

Up to you. If you post a picture of the equipment pad with valves labeled, we can help you automate the spillway if you wish.
 
The valve to the spa falls is manual, so I would need to add an actuator in order to automate it. Assuming my controller can accomodate another actuator. Amazon has them for ~100 bucks, so if I can add it, I'd like to.








The "fountain" is the tanning ledge bubbler.
 
Yup. You need to set it up in a similar fashion to your "FOUNTAIN" automation valve. The difference is, you'll need to open up the valve actuator and adjust the cams so that, in the pool only mode, the valve is completely shut off while in the the pool + spillway mode, the valve is only partially open (to whatever degree you need to run your spillway appropriately). My setup is a little different than your where there is a three-way valve that splits the flow between the pool returns and the spa floor return as opposed to your setup where the flows are parallel and independent. As for your controller, I am not familiar with the programming of the iAqualink but you'll definitely need an open valve relay to control the extra valve and then setup the new valve to correspond to a scheduled feature much like how your bubblers are programmed.

Consider this a lower priority project. You can always get to it in the off season when fiddling with the pool doesn't impact swim time. You'll also need to fiddle with the spillway scheduling as 1 hour/day may not be enough for your spa. As I said, I keep my spa covered so the FC loss from UV is a lot lower. If you leave the spa uncovered, you may need more turnovers to keep the spa water FC up.
 
Is it possible to expand that number (Pentair allows for an expansion card)?

If not, then it sounds like your bubblers (FOUNTAIN) is less likely to be used than your spillway so you could swap the actuator over to the spillway valve and just make the bubblers a manual deal.
 

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I'll find out on the expansion card, but if not thats what i was thinking too.

FC is 8.5. So with SWG on at 50% today, we lost one ppm. I can leave it be and ride it out a few days, or adjust down to ~30% for a day (or two) to help bring the FC down.
 
I say leave it be and see where the FC goes. If you drop below 5ppm, then you can start bumping up the SWG and pump run times.
 
300winmag said:
correct. 0.5 FC loss in a little over 14 hours, with no SWG or pumps overnight.

EDIT; It had a few hours of morning sun on it today before I measured FC.
Click to expand...

Excellent!! Looks like you killed whatever was brewing. Your situation is a classic example of the mistakes PBs make with SWGs - they startup the pool, let the FC get too low which then let's algae get a foothold in the water. Then they turn on the SWG and throw the keys to the pool owner saying "see ya! Have fun in the pool." Next thing you know the PO has no idea why their SWG isn't working, why the water is cloudy, etc, etc, and then they go to the pool store where they get further horrible advice (and spend hundreds of dollars on useless chemicals). Nothing works, the PO is angry and everyone blames the SWG. Warranties are called in, silly fixes are proposed and then no one is happy or swimming.

Aren't you glad you found TFP....
 
FC is now 9.
I dialed the SWG down to 40%, and shaved an hour off the pump runtime.

This will be my last FC update, as I think I can take it from here. If I can't get it dialed in for some reason, I'll let ya know.

Thanks for all of your help!
 

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