Convert to Salt Water

[DUCK01]

Moved from here

Timely topic. I've been on the fence about switching from liquid chlorine to a SWG. I currently have a 15 gallon holding tank with a Stenner pump that is plumbed into a cap where the in-line chlorinator used to reside (never used and didn't want, but the pool builder put one in, anyway). While the 15 gallon tank makes chlorination convenient, I'm getting tired of battling the salt buildup that occurs inside the plumbing at the injection site. It seems like I'm always having to take things apart to clean out the small diameter tubing, replace the duckbill valve inside the injection port, replace the injection port, etc. All of that has led to slow leaks that drive me crazy. Plus, I get tired of chasing liquid chlorine every month - our Walmart is iffy at best and the nearest Pinchapenny is 40 miles away.

I'm pretty anal about chemical levels and keep everything right in the middle of the "ideal" ranges, though after reading one of the threads on the second page of this forum, I'm going to let TA fall from 70 to 50-60 and see if that helps keep me from adding so much muriatic acid. Other than bumping up CYA and keeping CSI around -0.3, it doesn't seem like there's much else to it from a chemistry standpoint.

My pool is a plaster 13,500 gallon pebble finish, so the IC40 would be sufficient. My pump is Hayward single speed and I typically run my pump 4 hours a day in the off season and 6-8 hours in season because we're always in it and like to keep the water features on. I have the basic Intermatic dual timer setup and zero automation/connectivity on our pad. From what I've been reading, it looks like I just need to make sure that the IC40 is wired into the timer for the main pump so it's only powered while the pump is running. There is ample space in my pad and plumbing to install the SWCG, especially if I add in a loop and mount it vertically. I live in the Houston area, so my pool never closes and the only time the water temp would drop below 52F would be during very infrequent cold spells, at which point I'd just have to supplement with liquid chlorine.

Is there anything I'm missing? Jim's link above has the system priced a hair cheaper than Marina. Is there benefit of going with an IC60 for longevity, or would the "overkill" cause issues?

 

[Jaimslaw]

Many SWG owners go for the overkill (higher rated cells, me included) to theoretically prolong the useful life of the cell - this purportedly achieved by dialing back the time the cell is in the on position to as low as 50%, along with some other life prolonging efforts, e.g. timely cleaning of the cell, not overdoing the acid to water ratio in that cleaning process, and lowering or even zeroing out the percentage of time it’s on during colder months (and then occasionally adding liquid chlorine as needed during that time). Keeping CYA levels at between 70 and 80 during this reduced SWG “on” time has also probably contributed to getting my cell to the 8 year mark (and keeping all chem levels in optimal ranges). Is a SWG worth it? I would guesstimate that the positive vs negative ratio is around 85/15, perhaps higher. The 15% is largely made up of those who were unlucky enough to have suffered a premature failure of the SWG (within 2-3 years) due either to bad luck (ending up with the few bad units that come off any assembly line) and/or poor water and cell maintenance.

Another benefit you’d achieve: allowing use of your existing chlorine dispensing set up to take care of your pool’s acid demands. I believe the ability of my acid dispenser to keep ph levels spot on has contributed greatly to the longevity of my salt cells.

 

[wireform]

You're on the right path and at the right forum for your question. Yes, the ic40 will be plenty and a great decision on your part. I'll take this a step further and advise you to change to a VSP pump for many reasons and it'll save you lots in electricity too.

 

[Newdude]

Is there benefit of going with an IC60 for longevity, or would the "overkill" cause issues?

Its a calculated risk if a power surge on year 2 kills 5 remaining years of expensive cell plates. (Well, kills the electronics which makes you throw out good plates).

Other than that, a 4X cell will live 4X longer, with a crazy high ROI because it's probably not even double the cost and may only be 1/2 more cost to go big.

4X would be overkill in NY but your seasons are 2-3 times longer than mine and you will use proportionately more FC of any kind for that longer season. I would strongly consider the IC60 in your shoes, but i can't swear to where i would be financially that day whether I decided with big (IC40) or gigunda huge (IC60).

Purely from a financial perspective, the IC60 makes 1000 gallons of 10% LC worth of FC. That's $6100+ out the door at Walmart. As long as it doesn't take an unexpected failure, it doesn't really matter what they charge you to install it, you will make serious bank in the long run.

 

[DUCK01]

Its a calculated risk if a power surge on year 2 kills 5 remaining years of expensive cell plates. (Well, kills the electronics which makes you throw out good plates).

Other than that, a 4X cell will live 4X longer, with a crazy high ROI because it's probably not even double the cost and may only be 1/2 more cost to go big.

4X would be overkill in NY but your seasons are 2-3 times longer than mine and you will use proportionately more FC of any kind for that longer season. I would strongly consider the IC60 in your shoes, but i can't swear to where i would be financially that day whether I decided with big (IC40) or gigunda huge (IC60).

Purely from a financial perspective, the IC60 makes 1000 gallons of 10% LC worth of FC. That's $6100+ out the door at Walmart. As long as it doesn't take an unexpected failure, it doesn't really matter what they charge you to install it, you will make serious bank in the long run.

Jim posted a link on the other swap thread and, from that source, there's only a $240 difference between an IC40 system and an IC60 system. I was sold on the IC40, but roughly 15% more spend is nothing for the upgrade.

Pentair IntelliChlor

I average about 12 gallons of liquid chlorine a month, so a 60 would theoretically last almost 7 years. If my cell get killed by a power surge it's only a $240 gamble, which is nothing in "pool" dollars.

 

[Newdude]

there's only a $240 difference

Not too shabby for 50% more lifespan, barring any whoopsies. Lol.

 

[sande005]

Since we are spending your money, seriously consider switching to a variable speed pump at the same time. You will be slashing your energy costs by being able to run it on low speed 24/7, as opposed to the current 4 hr single speed run time. AND getting amazing consistency in consistent chlorination, as well as skimming and filtering.