Constant issues with Free Chlorine levels

[liquid1988]

Good afternoon all! Ive been stalking this forum for a week or so now, doing research to learn a bit about maintaining a pool (i'm a first time pool owner). I have caught myself up on the ABC's to an extent and I'm attempting to balance my pools chemistry without the help of the robber barons known as Pool companies. Although I used a pool company to open my pool since I am new to the game, I have pretty much been maintaining the pool on my own (to a certain extent). I have taken my water for the past 3 weeks for testing at my local pool supply store but I am getting the feeling either they don't know what they are talking about or they are taking advantage of me (seems the most plausible). They keep trying to get my to purchase Potassium Monopersulfate to free up the Chlorine but I cannot find any good information on this product. I have a 23,000 Gallon pool with a DE filter and a vinyl liner (I suspect the vinyl liner will have to be replaced next season). I am currently having issues with getting my FC to stay within a reasonable range. From reading a few posts on this forum I am narrowing down the issue to being too much organic material getting into the pool and eating up the chlorine? We have had very little sun the past week or so here and judging by my TC levels, that is not the issue. I appreciate any advice I can get from you great folks on here! I have learned a lot lurking the past few weeks and hope to continue my learning experience as the summer goes on!

My current numbers are as follows according to the pool guys... (I do have a 5 way test kit at home and the numbers do seem to be inline with what they provided me)

FC-.19 (Cannot get this to move,even after shocking and cleaning the pool weekly)
TC-2.13
CC-1.93
PH-7.6
HARDNESS-26
Alkalinity-121
CYA-86 (Pool clowns told me the general range of this should be 80-150 ppm but from what ive read on this forum 40-60 if the best range)
Phosphates-4900 (Not sure if this number is good or bad)

For sanitizer I am using 3 inch Trichlor Tabs in a floater. Anywho, thank you all for the great information you guys and gals share on here and look forward to listening to suggestions.

 

[Texas Splash]

Hello and welcome to TFP! Yep, we hear this quite often - "The pool store told me". Best thing you can do right now:
- Remove the chlorine tabs ASAP. They are increasing your CYA and it may already be too high; replace FC additions with regular bleach
- Order either a TF-100 (XL Option) or Taylor K-2006C test kit - link below. You MUST test your own water. Post a full set of your own results and we can help guide you. It's not difficult, but pool stores make it seem like you need a B.S. in Chemistry. You do not. The right test kit will resolve most of your problems and save you money down the road.

Nice to have you with us.

 

[waskydiver]

What are you using to shock the pool?

The Trichlor you are using is causing you more harm than good at this point, adding to your already too high CYA levels.

You would need about 11 gallons of 6% bleach to reach your shock level. You need to get your FC up over 30. You are no where close to that. (Assuming the numbers you have been given are accurate).

Before doing anything else, I would invest in a good test kit. This is the recomended kit: TFTestkits.net

 

[liquid1988]

Thanks for the welcome! So I should get some LIQUID (I assume) 6% Bleach and remove the tablets, run filter for 24 hours and retest?

 

[Texas Splash]

You have a good sized pool with some questionable FC levels. Until you obtain your own (proper) test it, we can't assume to much. But if your water is hazy or shows any signs of algae, you'll want to add just one gallon of regular bleach a day until the kit arrives. We have 8.25% in my area, but get what you can. Generic is fine, just make sure it's regular and NOT splashless or scented. Yes, remove the tabs and you can let them dry and save them for later. Just post test results from your own kit once it arrives.

- - - Updated - - -

Don't forget to update your signature!

 

[waskydiver]

I'd say FIRST retest with a good test kit. Then determine what you will need to do.

Chunking in 11 gallons of bleach based on questionable numbers might not be good advice.

 

[liquid1988]

I do have my own home test kit (liquid, not the useless strips) and it has read almost the exact number the pools guys gave me so I do believe the FC number is correct. My question for you then is, can I use any bleach IE. Clorox, non scented type? Is there any benefit to using liquid over granular?

 

[waskydiver]

Most (all?) granular sanitizer contains stuff you don't want in your pool in excess that can only be removed through water drains (calcium or CYA).

Is there a specific product that you have that you are considering using?

I'm not so much concerned about your FC levels as I am about your CYA levels.

If it's higher than you think then you won't reach your shock level, and you are probably better off draining much of your water and refilling. (Should probably consider that regardless).

If it's lower than you think then, it's not really going to hurt anything for the SLAM process, but you need to make sure it's right before you start putting people in the pool.

 

[liquid1988]

I was going to just get some standard Clorox bleach and use the Pool Calculator to get the right amount necessary. I too was a bit concerned with the CYA level being at 80+ but the pool clowns insisted that 80-150 is the best range which is counter intuitive to everything Ive read on this forum. So maybe I should drain the pool a few inches,refill, retest the CYA and adjust the chlorine levels from there? Seems that this most logical (and cost efficient) thing to do so I don't just keep throwing Chlorine in the pool and continue to add to the CYA/FC issue?

 

[Texas Splash]

Best to not do anything too crazy until your kit arrives. Your CYA may be okay, or it may be twice as high as you think. The little bit of bleach each day is just to keep a potential algae bloom from exploding on you. So if you don't mind adding a little regular bleach each day (1/2 - 1 gallon), that alone should be okay and not too much $. Look around for the best bleach bargains in your area. It doesn't have to be a brand name. Just plain with a decent % strength.

 

[Razorhog]

I do have my own home test kit (liquid, not the useless strips) and it has read almost the exact number the pools guys gave me so I do believe the FC number is correct. My question for you then is, can I use any bleach IE. Clorox, non scented type? Is there any benefit to using liquid over granular?

What kind of test kit do you have? Results like .19 and 2.13 aren't typical.
The advantage of using bleach is that it really doesn't add anything else to the water. There are no pucks or granular forms that don't add something else. Take some time and do some reading on pool school.

 

[liquid1988]

I am using a HDX 5 way test kit (Guess its the generic Home Depot brand). It was 14 bucks so I figured I couldn't go wrong. Looks like Ill be buying the one everyone is recommending on here ASAP. Good to know that any old liquid bleach will suffice for now. Thanks!

 

[DeanP66]

I used that kit at first too, and it was ok. Since then, I got the Taylor K-2006C and when I ran comparable tests from each kit at the same time, I noticed that the HDX pH test is a little off compared to the Taylor pH test. The TA test is pretty comparable. However, the chlorine test is useless, especially for a SLAM because it only goes up to 5 PPM. You need a FAS-DPD chlorine test for accuracy and that test is only available in the TF-100 and the Taylor K-2006C kits. Unfortunately, the HDX kit doesn't have a CYA or CH test, which are pretty important, especially if either level is really high, cause it usually requires at least a partial drain and refill.

Walmart's Great Value bleach is very good. It's 8.25% strength and under $3/gallon, and best of all, it's usually very fresh stock with the constant turnover on the shelves. Same stuff as the concentrated Clorox for $1 less a gallon.