Considering SWG Generator but I have concerns

[ZanyAnticsE]

+3 to those 2 above ^^^^^^

I used Pentair as an example. I personally prefer it but it's more expensive and not the best deal out there. I've had one for 10 years and it's such a beast, I don't care what else is out there.


For the last season or two, a bird in the hand was worth 2 in the bush. The prices went up a few days later more often than it went down, if it was even available.

If you decide on a unit, and for Texas I would (personally) only look at 60k units on 25k gallons, I can run the #s for that unit and it's price.

It really doesn't even matter what you pay for it, or which one you get at $9 a gallon of bleach. ($2.34 per FC). My $5, $6, and $7 comparisons listed above are assuming you search around for the best deal and do better than HD's current outrageous price. Several members have seen it at Walmart in the $5 range recently.

okay I think best option would be the RJ-60 Plus since Hayward doesn't make a bigger capacity SWG according to @proavia


Running the numbers would be great for information to have for information's sake - I am going to pull the trigger regardless though!

 

[Newdude]

RJ 60+ is 3.1 lbs output which translates to 14.3 FC per 24 hours 'on' (in 26k gallons)

5963 lifetime FC @ $1464= $0.245 per FC

*disclaimer: the production chart we use is Circupools own. No kidding they rate themselves head and shoulders above everyone else. Several members have reported production #s closer to everyone else. Which is fine, because that's *still* great and there was no need to lie. But. It's likely that the output will be lower than they say, increasing the cost per FC making it about $0.38 per.

Ooooooo. Here's a fun one. With the conservative estimate of 3863 lifetime FC from the RJ60+ (2 lbs a day), it would equal 1006 gallons of 10%.

Using the conservative price of $5 a gallon, that's $5030 you'd spend on bleach to match the RJ60+. When we subtract the $1464 we have a savings of $3566. Now. That $3566 would also be taxed at 8.25% in Dallas at $294.20. You will be saving $294.20 in sales tax alone by going SWG.



*save even more with bleach over $5 a gallon.

*save even more more if the unit produces like they claim.

*sales tax on first $1464 is a wash paying it both ways.

 

[ZanyAnticsE]

Alright folks, I already got my RJ60+ and I'm planning out the installation. I thought it would be pretty easy since I have a good length of pipe between my pump and filter, but after reading the installation instructions I've learned that the cell should be the last piece of equipment before water returns to the pool. Here are my questions:

1. Is it okay to disregard the instructions and install the cell between the pump and filter?
2. If not, how do you suggest I add pipe to get the necessary length needed after my filter (see the attached photo)



Let me know if I should post this in a new thread.
Thanks!
E

 

[ajw22]

1. Is it okay to disregard the instructions and install the cell between the pump and filter?

No.

2. If not, how do you suggest I add pipe to get the necessary length needed after my filter (see the attached photo)

Go vertical with a loop on the pipe circled in red.

Vertical Installation Kit for CircuPool® Saltwater Chlorinator Systems

www.circupool.com

View attachment 475940

Let me know if I should post this in a new thread.
Thanks!
E

 

[ZanyAnticsE]

Update: My RJ60+ is installed and running!

A few follow up questions:

1. As far as I could tell from the installation instructions, it doesn’t matter the orientation of the cell itself. Is this correct? Right now since I did a vertical installation I have the cell oriented so that the lettering is upside down since I wanted to avoid bending in the cord that would come from gravity. Is this all gravy, or should I flip it?

2. The instructions told me to run the cell at 75% for the first few days to get a feel for how much chlorine it is producing. Outside of that nugget, there isn’t much else in terms of strategy and fine tuning. Can anyone provide their favorite “getting started” post that includes those kinds of intricate details such as hours to run and at what power, etc?

Thanks so much to all who have contributed to this thread and guided me throughout the process! Y’all are dope!

 

[Newdude]

As far as I could tell from the installation instructions, it doesn’t matter the orientation of the cell itself. Is this correct?

The models that matter have internal flow switches. If it did matter 'flow -->' would be stamped/labeled on the cell.

terms of strategy and fine tuning

So using a conservative 2 lbs per 24 hours produced, poolmath says it should make 9.2 ppm FC in 26k gallons. This early in the season you may be losing 1 or 2 ppm and will need to replace it the same as you would with bleach. If Circupool didn't overstate their production, it will make 14.3 ppm per 24 hours 'on'. For now, go conservative and be pleasantly surprised with anything more.

So to start, try some variation of 25% to produce 1/4 of the max cell output. (Conservative 2.3 ppm FC) That can be 100% pump runtime and 25% SWG, or 6 hours pump with 100% SWG, or any maths equivalent.

Pay close attention in case 2.3 isn't enough, and be ready to add bleach for an instant spike. You'll likely make too much FC and you can lower the runtime until you have a good match for the daily loss.

As the season winds up, you'll add runtime every couple of weeks (as needed / per testing) until the midpoint of the season. Then for the back half, it's lowering the runtime every couple of weeks.

Think of the daily loss throughout the season as a bell curve. You'll go up, up, up, up, down, down, down, down. Or 3 ups and 5 downs. Etc etc etc. No 2 seasons are the same.

 

[ZanyAnticsE]

So to start, try some variation of 25% to produce 1/4 of the max cell output. (Conservative 2.3 ppm FC) That can be 100% pump runtime and 25% SWG, or 6 hours pump with 100% SWG, or any maths equivalent.

So does the speed my pump is running change the output of the generator, or does it produce the same amount of Cl regardless of whether I’m running at 2300rpm vs 1000rpm?

 

[proavia]

The flow switch should be in horizontal pipe or a vertical pipe where water flows up. Yours is installed in a pipe where water flows down. If the flow switch were to fail, there would be no flow switch protection to turn the cell off.

Is the SWG controller wired thru a separate timer?
it is important to have the SWG controller on a timer to run within the pump run timrs. The flow switch is a secondary safety device.

For the RJ series, it shouldn't make a difference which end of the cell is the input.

See the third pic here - the one with the pump and filter.

Vertical Installation Kit for CircuPool® Saltwater Chlorinator Systems

www.discountsaltpool.com

 

[woodyp]

Think I'll start buying stock in SWCG companies this year.

 

[Newdude]

So does the speed my pump is running change the output of the generator, or does it produce the same amount of Cl regardless of whether I’m running at 2300rpm vs 1000rpm?

The cell is either on, or off per the flow switch. RPM doesn't matter further than that.

The flow switch should be in horizontal pipe or a vertical pipe where water flows up. Yours is installed in a pipe where water flows down. If the flow switch were to fail, there would be no flow switch protection to turn the cell off.

+1 and GREAT catch Gene !!! I was reading left to right for whatever reason and it was correct that way.

Gravity may activate that switch one day, with no flow.

 

[ajw22]

The flow switch should be in horizontal pipe or a vertical pipe where water flows up. Yours is installed in a pipe where water flows down. If the flow switch were to fail, there would be no flow switch protection to turn the cell off.

If you are talking about this pic the water flows UP on this cell.

 

[Newdude]

If you are talking about this pic the water flows UP on this cell.

Correct. But we're talking about the downward flow of the flow switch being a problem.

 

[ajw22]

Correct. But we're talking about the downward flow of the flow switch being a problem.

Ah, I see that now.

 

[ZanyAnticsE]

The flow switch should be in horizontal pipe or a vertical pipe where water flows up. Yours is installed in a pipe where water flows down. If the flow switch were to fail, there would be no flow switch protection to turn the cell off.

Well this is not what I wanted to hear……….. I used the circupool link which didn’t have the third picture in the product description. I could have looked at the instructions but didn’t and now I am screwed.

Is the SWG controller wired thru a separate timer?
it is important to have the SWG controller on a timer to run within the pump run timrs. The flow switch is a secondary safety device.

Everything is running into a timer that is basically always on. I supposed I could have the pump bypass the timer and keep the swg on the timer to take advantage of that failsafe.

Do you think it’s worth it to redo the pipes for the flow switch issue if I also go through the trouble of rewiring the pump to bypass the timer?

 

[proavia]

Do you think it’s worth it to redo the pipes for the flow switch issue if I also go through the trouble of rewiring the pump to bypass the timer?

In a word - YES

You aren't necessarily screwed..... you could use a pvc 'pipe reamer' or 'socket saver'.
I have no experience with the lower cost socket saver product, but have used higher priced pipe reamer (only because my neighbor loaned me one) with great success.

As for the timer wiring....
Hook the pump up to the 'LINE' side and the SWG up to the 'LOAD' side. This will provide constant power to your VS pump and timed power to the SWG. Just set the time to run within the pump run times and check the time sync monthly and after any power outage.

 

[ZanyAnticsE]

In a word - YES

You aren't necessarily screwed..... you could use a pvc 'pipe reamer' or 'socket saver'.
I have no experience with the lower cost socket saver product, but have used higher priced pipe reamer (only because my neighbor loaned me one) with great success.

As for the timer wiring....
Hook the pump up to the 'LINE' side and the SWG up to the 'LOAD' side. This will provide constant power to your VS pump and timed power to the SWG. Just set the time to run within the pump run times and check the time sync monthly and after any power outage.

I got the pipe reamer and I want to run my plan by y’all before doing it. My plan is to take the flow switch and add it above the cell, then replace the outside down-flowing pipe with a solid long piece. The instructions say that the cell counts as the 6-12 inches of straight pipe needed for the flow switch - any other thoughts or suggestions welcome

 

[Newdude]

any other thoughts or suggestions welcome

You have to do it how you'd like and there are a couple ways to skin this cat. But you also have to look at your handiwork forever so don't go too Franken-PVC on it. Lol.

I'd just start over with new unions and build my own vertical kit. (Much cheaper) The vert kit is really for first timers anyway, and this is your second time so you fully understand how it works and what parts to buy.

The flow switch could move to the up side and the SWG on the down side.

 

[ZanyAnticsE]

You have to do it how you'd like and there are a couple ways to skin this cat. But you also have to look at your handiwork forever so don't go too Franken-PVC on it. Lol.

I'd just start over with new unions and build my own vertical kit. (Much cheaper) The vert kit is really for first timers anyway, and this is your second time so you fully understand how it works and what parts to buy.

The flow switch could move to the up side and the SWG on the down side.

Yeah, i originally thought I would switch the two, but it would just mean more pipe reaming which is a PIA, IMO.

The worst part is I built that vertical kit, just put the flow switch on the wrong side out of ignorance!!! Not again!!

 

[proavia]

Also, be sure to use schedule 40 rated fittings.
Several of the 90* elbows appear to be DWV fittings - not pressure rated sched 40. DWV shouldn't be used here.

Reaming the fittings is actually pretty easy. And you will get better at it the more you do in one sitting.

 

[ZanyAnticsE]

Also, be sure to use schedule 40 rated fittings.
Several of the 90* elbows appear to be DWV fittings - not pressure rated sched 40. DWV shouldn't be used here.

Reaming the fittings is actually pretty easy. And you will get better at it the more you do in one sitting.

Now I am extremely confused. Is this 90* okay? The title says it’s DWV but also specifies schedule 40