Compressor for Closing Pool

[Mendy48]

So I’ve gotten accustomed to opening my pool by myself for two seasons now. However , I would like to start closing it myself. The pool store charges almost $200 to close my pool and I don’t know if I want to go pay that right now. The pool store uses a cyclone Compressor.

Attached you’ll see my pool equipments. When the pool store comes over to close my pool, they put the compressor plug where the gauge is and blow out my lines.

I just need to figure out what type of compressor is use for my pool. Not sure.

 

[Texas Splash]

I just need to figure out what type of compressor is use for my pool. Not sure.

While some people might get by with a smaller compressor, ShopVac, etc, the Cyclone is without a doubt the preferred method to clear lines due to the volume of air generated. By removing the pressure gauge, they had an adapter(s) to accommodate that fitting, the same way some people chose to use the pump drain plug. In addition, you have several union fitting areas that could be disconnected and used as a connection point as well. You have a clean pad with lots of connection options, but a Cyclone is a great way to go and would pay for itself in a couple seasons.

 

[Newdude]

but a Cyclone is a great way to go and would pay for itself in a couple seasons

+1. In 1.5 seasons it’s free.

Is your post asking if your compressor is big enough, or which compressor to buy ? Because you could also invest the money in a bigger compressor that will serve other functions as well.

I used my commercial backpack leaf blower and also my 16 gal shop vac and they both worked great too. The shop vac didn’t atomize the water like I was used to with the blower so I put the hose back to the suck port and shoved a garden hose down the returns and sucked out the remaining few gallons. Or, most of what was left at least.

 

[Mendy48]

+1. In 1.5 seasons it’s free.

Is your post asking if your compressor is big enough, or which compressor to buy ? Because you could also invest the money in a bigger compressor that will serve other functions as well.

I used my commercial backpack leaf blower and also my 16 gal shop vac and they both worked great too. The shop vac didn’t atomize the water like I was used to with the blower so I put the hose back to the suck port and shoved a garden hose down the returns and sucked out the remaining few gallons. Or, most of what was left at least.

Yes! I'm asking about what type of compressor to get for my pool equipment that would get the job done well. I think I want to close my pool by myself this year. Also, the pool store doesn't drain the pool below the return jets because I was told that water doesn't seep back into the return jet (it is the way my pool was built). So for almost five years, this is how they've always drained my pool...right below the skimmer.

Nevertheless, I thought it best to just close my pool by myself this year and wanted to know the BEST compressor to get for my pool equipment.

 

[Newdude]

Yes! I'm asking about what type of compressor to get for my pool equipment that would get the job done well.

Ok great !! Hang tight for any thoughts of current models. Mine is long discontinued and they don’t make em like they used to. If you want to start looking, they all brag about the PSI but you only need a few. (5-7 ?), so in that regard any compressor would work. But what you really need is a higher CFM and that # can be manipulated to make some models look better. So what you really really want is the highest SCFM (standard cubic feet per minute) which levels the playing field for manufacturers claims. Technically all you need is 1-2 CFM if it’s a true measurement, so maybe look closer towards the 5 CFM models. They get real pricey after that.

Also, the pool store doesn't drain the pool below the return jets because I was told that water doesn't seep back into the return jet (it is the way my pool was built)

Interesting and a first for me. Are the returns above the water once drained ? Maybe they have some sort of check valve built into them ? If not they’d need to be plugged. If they are below the waterline and don’t plug themselves get blow through bungee plugs. They seal up once the compressor air stops.

If they are high and dry once drained get standard screw in ‘winterizing plugs’

 

[Mendy48]

Ok great !! Hang tight for any thoughts of current models. Mine is long discontinued and they don’t make em like they used to. If you want to start looking, they all brag about the PSI but you only need a few. (5-7 ?), so in that regard any compressor would work. But what you really need is a higher CFM and that # can be manipulated to make some models look better. So what you really really want is the highest SCFM (standard cubic feet per minute) which levels the playing field for manufacturers claims. Technically all you need is 1-2 CFM if it’s a true measurement, so maybe look closer towards the 5 CFM models. They get real pricey after that.

Interesting and a first for me. Are the returns above the water once drained ? Maybe they have some sort of check valve built into them ? If not they’d need to be plugged. If they are below the waterline and don’t plug themselves get blow through bungee plugs. They seal up once the compressor air stops.

If they are high and dry once drained get standard screw in ‘winterizing plugs’

Yeah l, when I asked him about why the water wasn’t drained below the return jet, he said “plug as it’s blowing….Let it blow big bubbles from the return. Then plug. Then the next will bubble. Plug that. Then the last one will blow” …. So what does this mean?

The returns are below the water when drained, and I’m not sure if they have some kind of check valve built in the though.

This is why I’m so confused.

 

[Newdude]

So what does this mean?

It means they are open under water and as air is shooting out (once the water is cleared form the pipes) they plug them one at a time to seal them. So they need to be plugged but you don’t necessarily need to drain below them to do so.

 

[Newdude]

If you are buying plugs either way, I’d get bungee plugs for just a few $$ more. Install them and blow right through them.

 

[Mendy48]

If you are buying plugs either way, I’d get bungee plugs for just a few $$ more. Install them and blow right through them.

I already have plugs for each return jet. Came with the pool installment. The return jets for my pool are usually plugged during winter.

I just don’t know if I want to leave water above my return jet when closing pool. I live in Michigan and we have harsh winters.

 

[Mendy48]

Ok great !! Hang tight for any thoughts of current models. Mine is long discontinued and they don’t make em like they used to. If you want to start looking, they all brag about the PSI but you only need a few. (5-7 ?), so in that regard any compressor would work. But what you really need is a higher CFM and that # can be manipulated to make some models look better. So what you really really want is the highest SCFM (standard cubic feet per minute) which levels the playing field for manufacturers claims. Technically all you need is 1-2 CFM if it’s a true measurement, so maybe look closer towards the 5 CFM models. They get real pricey after that.

So how do these look then… like this one or this .

You can actually rent one from Home Depot (MI-T-M Air Compressor, 4.3CFM. It will actually give you 4.1CFM at 100psi. Does this sound good?

I honestly believe I can do this on my own here.

I just don't like the fact of not draining my pool below the return jets. I have the plugs to shut them close after I blow out the lines, but I'll rather drain the pool below the return jets. Any suggestions on this as well?

Also, what about the main drain (the pipes that go to the main drain), I have to blow out the pipes to the main drain too right? After-which I push the lever towards the skimmer side (therefore closing the opening to the main drain). Yes?

 

[Newdude]

I already have plugs for each return jet

Sweet. Use the ones that don’t cost extra money

I just don’t know if I want to leave water above my return jet when closing pool

usually that depends on the cover and nobody is wrong. A tarp or solid cover tend to need the support and meshes can use the extra room to accumulate rain passing through them.

So how do these look then… like this one or this

Hang tight and hopefully we get confirmation from somebody using a current model. On paper, both of those will work. But compressor manufacturers tend to make as many bogus claims as any other manufacturer so I don’t trust the posted #s by themselves.

If HF has a generous return policy you could always return it if they didn’t work, but make sure before you buy one. Home Depot for one will take a tool / machine back simply because you are unhappy with it.

 

[Mendy48]

usually that depends on the cover and nobody is wrong. A tarp or solid cover tend to need the support and meshes can use the extra room to accumulate rain passing through them.

So are you saying that with a mesh cover (which I have) it would make more sense to have more room in the pool for winter (water) to seep into the pool. 'cause that's where my head was when I decided it would be best to drain below return jet. However, for over 4 years, the pool store never drained below return jet and my pool never overflowed. It was close, but it never overflowed.

 

[Darin]

Do you already own a compressor for you garage? If so that is the best one. Do you own a shop vac that you can blow with? Use it. Do you own a leaf blower? Use it. Do not buy a compressor solely to close your pool. Buy one for you garage and use it on the pool. I have several compressors but use a leaf blower to clear lines and a shop vac to suck water. Harbor Freight has a nice upright oil lube garage compressor for about $150 on clearance half of the year.

 

[Newdude]

So are you saying that with a mesh cover (which I have) it would make more sense to have more room in the pool for winter (water) to seep into the pool. 'cause that's where my head was when I decided it would be best to drain below return jet.

That is *exactly* what I’m sayin. According to the interwebs you get 32 inches of rain annually. Figure 2/3 of that in the off season and add a few more inches for melted snow. So you can expect about 2 ft added to your pool while it’s closed. (Year to year it could be less/more of course). So if they drained perfectly, the water was just below the edge of the liner at opening. If it was at the liner edge, some leaked out under the patio below the coping.