Completed New Construction - Start-up over, now what?

Ta- 50
ph- 6.8
ch- 525
Better Mike, but water is still corrosive. But now you can be more precise. It would be best to take the TA up to 70-80 at this point. The pH "should" begin to climb a bit as well. But if it continues to show below 7.2, give the pH some assistance. PH can be raised in three ways: borax, soda ash, and aeration. Borax is usually the best choice. Borax raises the PH and also raises the TA level just a little. Since your TA level is low soda ash (if available) will raise both the PH and TA levels.

So you have options, just use what you have available this evening. If all you have is baking soda, use some to increase the TA and keep your sheer descents on for aeration which should help to increase the pH.

Based on your CH of 525, and using the PoolMath tool, an ideal pH and TA range for you would be 7.4-7.6 (pH) & 70-80 (TA).

Mike, once you have those under control, watch your FC level. It looks a bit low. If you get some good sunlight tomorrow, test your CYA and balance the FC to that CYA as noted on the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] to avoid algae. :wink:
 
Better Mike, but water is still corrosive. But now you can be more precise. It would be best to take the TA up to 70-80 at this point. The pH "should" begin to climb a bit as well. But if it continues to show below 7.2, give the pH some assistance. PH can be raised in three ways: borax, soda ash, and aeration. Borax is usually the best choice. Borax raises the PH and also raises the TA level just a little. Since your TA level is low soda ash (if available) will raise both the PH and TA levels.

So you have options, just use what you have available this evening. If all you have is baking soda, use some to increase the TA and keep your sheer descents on for aeration which should help to increase the pH.

Based on your CH of 525, and using the PoolMath tool, an ideal pH and TA range for you would be 7.4-7.6 (pH) & 70-80 (TA).

Mike, once you have those under control, watch your FC level. It looks a bit low. If you get some good sunlight tomorrow, test your CYA and balance the FC to that CYA as noted on the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] to avoid algae. :wink:

thank you! I will add some more baking soda and turn on descents. Tomorrow I will retest and add borax if needed.

thank you so much for the help! Greatly appreciated
 
I now need to find borax and cya and muiaric acid here in Dallas.
thank you.
Borax can be found in the Dallas area in the laundry aisle of Walmart, along with plain, unscented, nothing added bleach. Granular CYA (stabilizer) available at Walmart too in pool supply aisle. Muriatic acid in the outside garden area of Home Depot.
 
Once again, follow the advice from Texas Splash. You can argue with your pool builder and develop a lot of heartburn but it is FAR more important to have pH and TA within the guidelines suggested at TFP.

It appears you are doing just that (adjusting pH and TA correctly......borax and baking soda) so once your pH is in the mid 7's and TA around 60-80, then you should work on your chlorine........what does your water look like?

Please read "The "ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School.
 
Once again, follow the advice from Texas Splash. You can argue with your pool builder and develop a lot of heartburn but it is FAR more important to have pH and TA within the guidelines suggested at TFP.

It appears you are doing just that (adjusting pH and TA correctly......borax and baking soda) so once your pH is in the mid 7's and TA around 60-80, then you should work on your chlorine........what does your water look like?

Please read "The "ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School.

This morning:
TA = 90
Ph = 7.2
FC = 2
Added 4lbs Borax & 1 qt chlorine
water looks like this
15107E53-722A-4C4E-96E1-D947D1339B47.jpg
 
Much better Mike! :goodjob: Water looks great. Now your water isn't as corrosive. Without getting into a complicated subject, your CSI (Calcite Saturation Index) as noted on the PoolMath tool looks much better. I wouldn't do anything else to adjust TA or pH at the moment. I don't want you to over-shoot anything then end-up having to knock it back down. Let it all settle and run without any chemical changes to see how the pH and TA stabilize on their own. If you keep the pH between 7.4-7.6 and TA in that 70-90 range you will be in great shape.

Now is time to step back and enjoy your investment. I would check the CYA at some point to ensure you are keeping the FC balanced as noted on the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]. That's important to keep the water clear and avoid algae. Looking good!
 
Much better Mike! :goodjob: Water looks great. Now your water isn't as corrosive. Without getting into a complicated subject, your CSI (Calcite Saturation Index) as noted on the PoolMath tool looks much better. I wouldn't do anything else to adjust TA or pH at the moment. I don't want you to over-shoot anything then end-up having to knock it back down. Let it all settle and run without any chemical changes to see how the pH and TA stabilize on their own.

Now is time to step back and enjoy your investment. I would check the CYA at some point to ensure you are keeping the FC balanced as noted on the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]. That's important to keep the water clear and avoid algae. Looking good!

thanks for all your help! I really value it and appreciate it. I used poolmath at my NJ pool and all my friends asked how I get my pool so clean. They think I spend a fortune and still don’t believe that I do it myself.
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.