Combined Chlorine

[P2Pool]

This is the second year we've had an inground SWG (nature2 fusion) pool and just opened it. I'm using a a FAS-DPD Taylor Test kit and the following resulted: Free Chlorine = 2.8, Combined Chlorine =1 ppm, pH = 7.6. In knowing that the recommended for combined chlorine level is <0.5 ppm, wanted to ask if this is safe to swim in or do I need to SLAM the pool. Water is crystal clear with hardly any smell, though do need to clean off filters a tad better with a pressure washer (maybe that could be causing the high CC?). Also, the CC was higher at 1.4 though I replaced the mineral cartridge and it's lowered over the past 6 hrs surprisingly (know most say not to use them within TFP, though thought I add). Appreciate any help in advance, thanks

 

[HermanTX]

This is the second year we've had an inground SWG (nature2 fusion) pool and just opened it. I'm using a a FAS-DPD Taylor Test kit and the following resulted: Free Chlorine = 2.8, Combined Chlorine =1 ppm, pH = 7.6. In knowing that the recommended for combined chlorine level is <0.5 ppm, wanted to ask if this is safe to swim in or do I need to SLAM the pool. Water is crystal clear with hardly any smell, though do need to clean off filters a tad better with a pressure washer (maybe that could be causing the high CC?). Also, the CC was higher at 1.4 though I replaced the mineral cartridge and it's lowered over the past 6 hrs surprisingly (know most say not to use them within TFP, though thought I add). Appreciate any help in advance, thanks

I think the biggest concern with a fusion system is that it goes against the FC/CYA Levels which is a cornerstone of the TFP methodology. You don’t state your CYA but your FC at 2.8 seems ver low which may be part of your problem in that it is allowing a low level of algae to exist.

 

[proavia]

Log your test results directly into PoolMath and save them there. Makes it easier for you and us to see.
I think your last acid addition logged is incorrect - 18518 oz of MA. That's over 144 GALLONS of 31.45% MA.

Remove the mineral cartridge. It will only lead to issues, staining being one of them.

Follow the FC/CYA Levels - and dose FC based on your CYA.

Fill out your signature with pool, pool equipment (including manufacturers and model numbers) and test kit info.
This assists us in providing help specific to your pool without us needing to ask for the info each time.

https://www.troublefreepool.com/account/signature

 

[P2Pool]

Thank you all for the reply! Didn't realize that you're able to see what I've entered into the app, so thanks for the insight. Still learning on how to use the app accordingly, so will begin to document appropriately and not erroneously haha! Will move to stop using the mineral cartridges and update my signature, though do have pool info below my profile icon (hope that helps). I haven't touched anything since my last post and have a auto cover that covered the pool since Sat afternoon, and now my FC = 5.6, CYA = 10, CC = 0.8, pH = 8, TA: 90, CH: 160, Salt = 3000. Have my aquapure automation set at 25% reading 3.0 gpL of salt. Will keep the pool exposed to sun to reduce FC, add CYA to appropriate levels (~70) and lower pH by using muriatic acid appropriately. Again, truly appreciate all the help/insight

 

[HermanTX]

You are on the right track.
Before your raise CYA above 40, ensure your CC is at 0.5 or 0. If you have to SLAM, then you want your CYA to be no higher than 40.


As you add CYA, do it in batches, raise to 40, then to 60, etc. Don’t try and do it all in one large batch. Also, it may take 36-48 hrs for it all to register on your CYA testing.
Keep your FC in line with your CYA as you do your testing.
Also, with pH try not to make a big change In 1 dose. Target 7.8 then once there, target 7.6 as this will help your TA come down as well.
Once your TA is at 60-70 then your pH may settle out as well. It will try to find a happy place and the lower TA will keep the pH from rising too quickly.

 

[MITBeta]

With a low FC level and a potentially highish CC level, you should run the
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test before raising CYA above 40. This will confirm whether you need to follow the
SLAM Process or not.

 

[P2Pool]

You are on the right track.
Before your raise CYA above 40, ensure your CC is at 0.5 or 0. If you have to SLAM, then you want your CYA to be no higher than 40.


As you add CYA, do it in batches, raise to 40, then to 60, etc. Don’t try and do it all in one large batch. Also, it may take 36-48 hrs for it all to register on your CYA testing.
Keep your FC in line with your CYA as you do your testing.
Also, with pH try not to make a big change In 1 dose. Target 7.8 then once there, target 7.6 as this will help your TA come down as well.
Once your TA is at 60-70 then your pH may settle out as well. It will try to find a happy place and the lower TA will keep the pH from rising too quickly.

Ill most definitely keep that in mind; start low and go slow. Would sun exposure also help remove CC? If I do have to SLAM, my understanding is to use Di-chlor for SWG pools, correct? I left off the cover to expose to sun for the past 12 hrs and now have a FC 1.6, CC 0.4 and pH 7.6 so will not be SLAMming it. Will be adding the Clorox cya later this evening (slowly). Is there anyone brand of cya that’s better than another for fiberglass pools? Truly appreciate everyone’s input

 

[proavia]

Use liquid chlorine - whether you have a SWG or not.

 

[HermanTX]

Would sun exposure also help remove CC? If I do have to SLAM, my understanding is to use Di-chlor for SWG pools, correct? I left off the cover to expose to sun for the past 12 hrs and now have a FC 1.6, CC 0.4 and pH 7.6 so will not be SLAMming it.

UV eats active chlorine - FC. A SLAM always should use liquid chlorine as it is much faster to raise FC levels.
You have not stated your CYA, but suggest you raise your FC or algae could possibly form. Having a FC of 1.6 does not even meet minimum and since your cover was open, the UV consumed a lot of your FC. Top it up immediately by using LC or you may need to SLAM if algae starts.

 

[P2Pool]

UV eats active chlorine - FC. A SLAM always should use liquid chlorine as it is much faster to raise FC levels.
You have not stated your CYA, but suggest you raise your FC or algae could possibly form. Having a FC of 1.6 does not even meet minimum and since your cover was open, the UV consumed a lot of your FC. Top it up immediately by using LC or you may need to SLAM if algae starts.

Got it. My CYA 10 same as previously mentioned. Will place the cover back on and increase my SWG output in the interim. You all are amazing, can’t thank everyone enough

 

[HermanTX]

Will be adding the Clorox cya later this evening (slowly). Is there anyone brand of cya that’s better than another for fiberglass pools?

Just ensure that it is near 100% stabilizer. I do not like Clorox proeducts in general but use what you can get at a decent price.

 

[MITBeta]

Also, as previously suggested, conduct an
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to confirm that there's nothing in your water to be concerned about.

 

[dfwnoob]

Just ensure that it is near 100% stabilizer. I do not like Clorox proeducts in general but use what you can get at a decent price.

The CYA is the only good product they sell. Nothing I've tried dissolves as easily or quickly as theirs does.

 

[P2Pool]

Added CYA (which took a long while to dissolve in the bucket then pool style) CYA is now 40, pH 7.6, FC 5 & CC 0.2. I have my pool covered to retain heat and avoid chlorine loss so wanted to ask if need to add more to bring it up to 70ppm. Also, how often does one have to clean the salt cell (currently have no issues with it, asking for basic maintenance). You all are amazing, truly appreciate all the help