Cloudy Water - Despite being OCD

[rcamp014]

New Pool Owner and despite being OCD I cant get rid of this cloudy water, Id love some pointers from you guys.

Having been on the forums and reading a bunch I did pick up a TAYLOR K-2006 Test Kit. Here are my current levels

Ph: 7.2
FC: 4.6
CC: 0.2 (I never had this be 0…..should it?)
CYA: 55
TA: 80
CH: 280
Salt: 3800

I run pump 24 hrs a day
Pentair IC40 set at 80%

Pool gets sun from sunrise till about 6pm.

I also recently bought a dolphin premiere and ran her for about 5 hours so there is no sand/dirt kn the bottom. I check skimmers routinely and the pressure on our sand filter is normal, backwashed last week. I have NOT used flocculants/clarifiers…etc.

I run the pump 24 hours a day.

Any thoughts? I read on some other “cloudy posts” that its the signs of algea beginning.

Appreciate any input! I

 

[mknauss]

You are adding 5 ppm FC per day with your IC set at 80% 24 hours per day. That seems a bit excessive but your CYA may be on the low side.
From now on, when you do your FC testing, use a 10 ml sample of water, one heaping scoop of R0870, and each drop of 0871 to clear is 0.5ppm
CC of less than 1 ppm is non consequential.

I would suggest you do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test tonight. Be sure the SWCG is OFF during the test.

 

[gingrbredman]

I would suggest you do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test tonight

I second that motion. As you have read, cloudy water could be the beginning of an algae situation, and you will know after you perform this test. As chlorine is burned off by either the sun, or something organic in your water, performing this test will rule out the sun and tell you if its organic that needs to be attacked by a SLAM.

Also, following the test procedures as @mknauss pointed out above will make it easier on the testing if you do need to move forward with a SLAM.

Pictures of the water will help a lot. A lot of experienced people here can see things in test results and pictures one would think impossible, but I've seen it happen over and over.

 

[rcamp014]

Thanks! I lowered my Chlorinator to 60% and I will raise my CYA (targeting 70 ppm) based on the CYA/FC chart for SWG.

Ill also do the chlorine loss test tonight (ill be sure to shut of my chlorinator), will results tomorrow.

Ill get some pics and post of the water clarity soon.

 

[rcamp014]

 

[mknauss]

Up to you, but I would wait to do either thing you listed until you pass an OCLT.

 

[rcamp014]

Up to you, but I would wait to do either thing you listed until you pass an OCLT.

Ahhh, that makes sense. Ill put it back to original settings for chlorinator

I wont raise my CYA until I know whats going on.

 

[gingrbredman]

I wont raise my CYA until I know whats going on

That is a good plan. If you need to SLAM, it will be easier at say 60 (55 rounded up) then 80. Your SLAM chlorine target is based on your CYA results, so keeping it where it is now is solid advice.

 

[rcamp014]

Up to you, but I would wait to do either thing you listed until you pass an OCLT.

Thanks for you help. Quick question, I saw the video for the OCLT, and it said that I need to get my levels to my Target FC/CYA levels first….and once there that is my baseline FC level.

Can I instead just measure my FC level at sunset….turn off my chlorinator, then that is my baseline…. Then before sunrise I check the FC level again (ill leave the pump running all night)?

And If I lose more than 1 ppm of FC….then I need to SLAM?

Did I capture this correctly? Thanks again!

 

[PoolStored]

Thanks for you help. Quick question, I saw the video for the OCLT, and it said that I need to get my levels to my Target FC/CYA levels first….and once there that is my baseline FC level.

Can I instead just measure my FC level at sunset….turn off my chlorinator, then that is my baseline…. Then before sunrise I check the FC level again (ill leave the pump running all night)?

Turn off the chlorinator, not the pump, 30 minutes before your test. Test AFTER sunset. FC should be greater than 3 when you start. Yes, leave the pump running.

And If I lose more than 1 ppm of FC….then I need to SLAM?

Yep!

Did I capture this correctly? Thanks again!

Close enough and you asked the right questions!!!

 

[rcamp014]

Turn off the chlorinator, not the pump, 30 minutes before your test. Test AFTER sunset. FC should be greater than 3 when you start. Yes, leave the pump running.

Yep!

Close enough and you asked the right questions!!!

Thanks for clearing this portion up! And for the quick response. Thanks!

 

[Ahhsomeguy]

Stop backwashing your sand filter until the water flow returning to the pool slows way down. Your pressure gauge should also rise as the flow diminishes. Sand filters need gunk and dirt on the sand to be more effective. That stuff is actually called a “schmutz deck” and it will filter finer particulates from the water. You don’t let the flow get too low, just enough to allow the water going down through the sand to be slower so a finer filtration takes place. Plus, auto cleaners can stir up fine particulates on the pool floor. You may also be very close to an algae bloom. Do what they are telling you with the chemicals. I have worked with thousands of sand filter owners over my 53 years in this crazy business. Most of the time the filters are backwashed too often. Plus, if you have a 6 way rotary valve, be sure to use the rinse cycle after backwashing for 15 seconds BEFORE you place the valve in the filter cycle. Always shut the pump OFF BEFORE you move the filter valve to any new position. If all else fails I strongly recommend that you use a bio-cleaner and water clarifier called Ahh-Some for POOLS, not hot tubs.
That will solve your issue after a few weeks with the product in the water.

 

[gingrbredman]

I strongly recommend that you use a bio-cleaner and water clarifier called Ahh-Some

Not sure I read anywhere about the SLAM and those chemicals. The first step is to see what the OCLT shows as @PoolStored noted above, and then SLAM if necessary.

One thing I don't think was mentioned here just yet, but when you get your full set of results, if the chorine is above 10, the PH test becomes unreliable. Your SLAM chlorine level will be above 10 for sure, but if you can test the PH before you begin the SLAM, you could adjust that with muriatic acid before you get your chlorine levels up during the SLAM. You will only focus on CYA/Chlorine during the SLAM, but if you have a full set of test results before hand, it will help.

 

[rcamp014]

Confused with results….(despite water looking fairly clear this morning)

Took Water reading as follows.
1) Sunset occured at 815pm - turned off Chlorinator in settings on smart panel
2) Took Reading at 8:50pm: FC at 4.4 ppm
3) Left pump running all night
4) Took morning reading at 5:20am: FC at 4.8 ppm

I did my FC readings twice for evening and morning to ensure I did it right.

Is it possible to have MORE chlorine in the pool than I started with? With the chlorinator off and I also set the chlorinator to 0 in my wifi app prior to turning it off on the panel. Not sure if there is residual chlorine being dumped into the pool despite shutting off the chlorinator 30 minutes PRIOR to testing.

Note I did turn back ON the chlorinator after completing my test.

Thoughts?

 

[PoolStored]

Confused with results….(despite water looking fairly clear this morning)

Took Water reading as follows.
1) Sunset occured at 815pm - turned off Chlorinator in settings on smart panel
2) Took Reading at 8:50pm: FC at 4.4 ppm
3) Left pump running all night
4) Took morning reading at 5:20am: FC at 4.8 ppm

I did my FC readings twice for evening and morning to ensure I did it right.

Is it possible to have MORE chlorine in the pool than I started with? With the chlorinator off and I also set the chlorinator to 0 in my wifi app prior to turning it off on the panel. Not sure if there is residual chlorine being dumped into the pool despite shutting off the chlorinator 30 minutes PRIOR to testing.

Note I did turn back ON the chlorinator after completing my test.

Thoughts?

Yeah, confusing. You are within margin of error for the test your are running.

Here is what I would recommend.

1. Squeeze the bottle super slow. Let the drops form slowly and drop on their own vs. squeezing a little harding and forcing the drops to drop...if that makes sense. This will allow them to get as big as they are supposed to get. Slow the drops down, they should drop, one one thousand, drop, two one thousand.
2. Do you have a smart stir? I would get one. My brother, who owned a pool for 30 years, came over and we did dueling tests. I used my smart stir and he "swirled." Our FC results were 1ppm apart.
3. I would use the 10ml test (.5ppm), not the 25ml (.2ppm). It is close enough and will save reagent.
4. 30 minutes is usually enough time after last addition (pool buffering systems are fairly efficient). You might give it 60 or 90 minutes after you turn it off before you test.

You mentioned the pool is "fairly clear." To finish slam, the Pool must be crystal clear, and no debri, cloudy, algae on the bottom etc. Can you explain "fairly clear?"

You did not mention test for CC. Did you test for this?

I would keep slamming, even if you are going to test OCLT again tonight.

Hope this helps!