You are still using cal-hypo for the shocking process? I would stop using that for now, your water clarity (and the junk building up in your filter) may be partially due to using that. We would recommend bleach/liquid chlorine for now.
Well, the cloudiness is gone, but that may be because i didn't move the water around. I thought 12ppm is the shock level, then wait for it to go down to 2ppm, and repeat. And no, i don't have a CH reading yet.jblizzle said:Right 1 lbs of cal-hypo (48%) will raise the FC by 12ppm, but the idea is to keep the FC there ... not wait for it to drop and then add another lb.
You should be testing the FC every few hours and then adding the amount of FC required to get back the 12ppm until it stays there.
Have you managed to get a CH reading yet? Last time you posted you stopped around 23 drops, but that may not be right. The cal-hypo could certainly still be contributing to the cloudiness.
Well, i guess i will, but then i would need to go shopping, and I wont be until next week.linen said:You are still using cal-hypo for the shocking process? I would stop using that for now, your water clarity (and the junk building up in your filter) may be partially due to using that. We would recommend bleach/liquid chlorine for now.
You can keep using cal-hypo to do the shocking process, but since your CH test was inconclusive/strange we do not know what your CH level is. Everything else you have posted suggests it is high.The Pool Nerd said:Well, i guess i will, but then i would need to go shopping, and I wont be until next week.
12 ppm is the shock level. You want to stay up at this level as much as possible during the shocking process. When you let it drop as low as 2 ppm, then algae growth rate has a chance to outpace the chlorine kill rate.The Pool Nerd said:I thought 12ppm is the shock level, then wait for it to go down to 2ppm, and repeat. And no, i don't have a CH reading yet.
12 ppm is the shock level. You want to stay up at this level as much as possible during the shocking process. When you let it drop as low as 2 ppm, then algae growth rate has a chance to outpace the chlorine kill rate.[/quote:vdyga45n]linen said:You can keep using cal-hypo to do the shocking process, but since your CH test was inconclusive/strange we do not know what your CH level is. Everything else you have posted suggests it is high.The Pool Nerd said:Well, i guess i will, but then i would need to go shopping, and I wont be until next week.
Have you been using copper based algaecides in the past?
Getting a good CH test kit will help...the HTH version is known to have issues.
[quote="The Pool Nerd":vdyga45n]I thought 12ppm is the shock level, then wait for it to go down to 2ppm, and repeat. And no, i don't have a CH reading yet.
But, it no longer seems that there is algae in the pool, but a bunch of calcium. so i don't see a huge reason of keeping it high. So, when my pool will be normal again, how would the shock process be done? wait for it to go down to 2ppm, or always keep it high?linen said:While dealing with water issues the process is to keep the chlorine level high...we call this the "shock process" or "shocking process". The idea is to keep the chlorine (FC level to be exact) high until the reason to do the shocking process has been eliminated. See this pool school article if you haven't already (I think we assumed you had since we had since the link was posted in the first response to your first post in this threadhttp://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/shocking_your_pool
When a pool is properly chlorinated then a regular superchlorination schedule is not needed. For a cya of 25 ppm, you normal FC levels should be 2-6 ppm, but never below 2 ppm. This sounds good, but with that low of a cya level (25 ppm), the sun is going to use up a lot of your chlorine. We would recommend you raise your cya level closer to 50 ppm. Then less of you chlorine will be used up by the sun, though your normal FC level at 50 ppm should be 4-8 ppm (never below 4 ppm).The Pool Nerd said:So, when my pool will be normal again, how would the shock process be done? wait for it to go down to 2ppm, or always keep it high?
Ok, when i added stabilizer, i had to add twice as much as i should have, according to the pool calculator. And that got it up to 25ppmlinen said:When a pool is properly chlorinated then a regular superchlorination schedule is not needed. For a cya of 25 ppm, you normal FC levels should be 2-6 ppm, but never below 2 ppm. This sounds good, but with that low of a cya level (25 ppm), the sun is going to use up a lot of your chlorine. We would recommend you raise your cya level closer to 50 ppm. Then less of you chlorine will be used up by the sun, though your normal FC level at 50 ppm should be 4-8 ppm (never below 4 ppm).
The Pool Nerd said:By nuke, i mean shock.... And i add one pound of shock to my pool.... it raises it to about that level.jblizzle said:"Nuking your pool" (not sure exactly what that means) is dangerous to your pool. You do not want to raise your FC above mustard shock level which is FC of 19ppm for you CYA of 30ppm. If you due you are likely to start bleaching out your liner.
The FC shock level you should be targeting and maintaining is 12ppm.
Yes i did read some stuff from pool school, and yes, i have learned some things i did wrong, and it seems you've never heard the term of "nuke". a nuke kills everything, except roaches. Now, when you "shock" a pool, you kill everything in it. Thus, the slang for it, "nuke"frogabog said:The Pool Nerd said:By nuke, i mean shock.... And i add one pound of shock to my pool.... it raises it to about that level.jblizzle said:"Nuking your pool" (not sure exactly what that means) is dangerous to your pool. You do not want to raise your FC above mustard shock level which is FC of 19ppm for you CYA of 30ppm. If you due you are likely to start bleaching out your liner.
The FC shock level you should be targeting and maintaining is 12ppm.
Shocking is not a one time event, nor is it a product. So, by adding a pound of shock product and walking away, with "about" a level (which level? 30ppm?) you're not actually shocking.
When we shock, we maintain a certain shock level associated with a known CYA level. Maintaining it requires a test kit because falling below shock level at any point in the shocking process causes setbacks.
The "throw a pound of shock product in and walk away" approach often doesn't work. Which is why people come here and ask for help. You came and asked for help and we've pointed out some of the things that cause your particular issue. Throwing shock product in, at "about" a level that is unknown and expecting miracles is well known to cause the difficulties you're experiencing.
Without a test that goes over 5ppm, you can't possibly know what level the shock product has taken your water to. This means you can't maintain said unknown shock level as well.
Bottom line, you're not shocking you pool. It's not going to get better with your "nuking". Sorry.
Read anything in Pool School yet?