Yes a permanent ladder and light under the diving board. Other than that just 3 steps in the shallow end. Simple rectangle.
Cloudy & Green
- Thread starter Tracy Bev
- Start date
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,797
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Hahah that is a funny question. The light worked before they came in and blasted it and painted. Now when we try to turn on the light it just kicks the breaker. Assuming water got in there after the power washing maybe broke a seal??? And now it does not work. Do you think there is “bad” water in it causing the algae/growth??
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,797
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
The light is questionable so I would pull it no matter what. Algae or not, you don't want a bad electrical component in the water. If this is a traditional large light fixture, the niche behind the light is designed to be wet to keep the bulb cool, but of course the bulb itself should not get wet. So I would pull the light and place it on the decking. At that time, you can inspect the niche for algae and just let the chlorinated water penetrate that area. While on the decking, inspect the light for water damage and perhaps order any replacement parts (gasket, bulb, etc) as needed before replacing.
Very well could be. And there could also be a few gallons of old nasty water in the ladder rails. Until they are proved otherwise they are suspect.
However. Once you go milky/cloudy you have killed most/all of the algae and then it turns from a chemistry fight to a filtering it all out fight. Your FC holding overnight helps point to this. (But give the ladder and light a good once over just in case they are hurting you also).
The good news is that the FC is holding which makes this part of the battle much easier.
The bad news is this is the stage that tests even the most patient of folks while waiting for the filter to do its thing. It can drag on for a week or more, but hey !! At least you won’t be blowing through gallons of bleach
Watch the filter and clean/backwash it anytime it rises 25% in PSI. You got this. Stay the course.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,797
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Even though the breaker has been tripping, be sure it's OFF to be safe.
Okay that makes sense. The ladder was out of the pool for close to 2 weeks with the work we had done and we placed 2 new bottom bumpers in each leg so if any water in it, it should not be bad. We should have pulled the light when it was empty but did not. Like many things in this old house we question how easy it will be to get it out and wonder if it was messed with at one point and not put back correctly, it only has one screw and not sure the seal is very good??Very well could be. And there could also be a few gallons of old nasty water in the ladder rails. Until they are proved otherwise they are suspect.
However. Once you go milky/cloudy you have killed most/all of the algae and then it turns from a chemistry fight to a filtering it all out fight. Your FC holding overnight helps point to this. (But give the ladder and light a good once over just in case they are hurting you also).
The good news is that the FC is holding which makes this part of the battle much easier.
The bad news is this is the stage that tests even the most patient of folks while waiting for the filter to do its thing. It can drag on for a week or more, but hey !! At least you won’t be blowing through gallons of bleach
Watch the filter and clean/backwash it anytime it rises 25% in PSI. You got this. Stay the course.
If the FC only dropped 1ppm last night should I keep the chlorine at 16ppm? Or let it start to drop? There are still no tabs in my chlorinator. We did get in it yesterday and my skin was a bit itchy, assuming due to the high chlorine level? Is it okay to be in it?
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,797
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
I you lost no more than 1 ppm FC, your water is crystal, and CC no more than 0.5 technically the SLAM is complete. But if you have any doubts about those criteria, I would maintain the FC level. It's safe as long as your CYA is still 40.
Okay so here are the numbers:
PH 7.5 (up a bit)
CA 425
TA 110
CYA 45
FC 15.5
CC 0
You keep the FC up until you have stupid clear water. The FC demand or maybe just a little of it may return in the meantime. You keep it up to ensure you don’t lose any ground until the filter finishes the battle. So now it’s more a precautionary thing, but still a needed one. And if it stays like it’s been, it will be very easy to do.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,383
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Just want everyone to remember this is a painted pool. Though recently painted, we do know paint is not known for longevity and the first sign of failure is it creating cloudy water.
This might be 40 years of gooooooo! Light out, going to clean well, replace seals, and bulb! May let it set and clean out niche before we put it back in. Water inside the casing with the bulb. Such a mess! Don’t mind the dork in the background 
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,797
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
But !!!!!
We have an answer. Maybe even the only source of algae. The light is the ‘hard’ one to check. Should only be a few minutes to scour the rest of the pool (ladder/skimmer etc) for any others.
We have an answer. Maybe even the only source of algae. The light is the ‘hard’ one to check. Should only be a few minutes to scour the rest of the pool (ladder/skimmer etc) for any others.
TexEdmond
Gold Supporter
- Jun 16, 2021
- 661
- Pool Size
- 25500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
