Cloudy Cloudy Water

Basketsjbj

Member
Jun 20, 2020
16
South
We have an inground pool with approximately 33,000 gals. Our CYA level was high at 113. We emptied half the water out of the pool and refilled. New CYA level is now 40. We have been testing and adding chemicals based on our test kit. Any recommendations besides adding additional Liquid Chlorine to bring the FC number between 3 - 7. We've added Polyquat 50 and Clarifier. Water still just as cloudy as ever! We know we have to bring the chlorine level up to around 3-7. But any suggestions in removing the cloudiness. We can't see the bottom drains in the deep end!

Our numbers are:
FC = .61
PH = 7.1
TA = 71
CH = 93
CYA = 40

33K gallon pool, LaMotte 2056 ColorQ Test Kit, Hayward 425 sq ft Cartridge Filter C4025
 
We have an in-ground pool with approximately 33,000 gals. Our CYA level was high at 113. We emptied half the water out of the pool and refilled. New CYA level is now 40. We have been testing and adding chemicals based on our test kit. Any recommendations besides adding additional Liquid Chlorine to bring the FC number between 3 - 7. We've added Polyquat 50 and Clarifier. Water still just as cloudy as ever

Our morning's test numbers are:
FC = 2.53
PH = 7.3
TA = 83
CH = 104
CYA = 34

In ground Pool Information: 33K gal, IG vinyl, 1/2 HP Hayward 425 sq ft Cartridge Filter/C4025 Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot, LaMotte 2056 ColorQ Test Kit.
 
Welcome to the forum!
Cloudy water typically means algae. To clear the pool, you need to follow the SLAM Process
To do that, you need a FAS-DPD test kit. Your existing test kit falls short of being sufficient to follow the TFP protocols.
Get a FAS-DPD test kit. Do not add any more algaecide or clarifier, neither will resolve your issue. You need chlorine.
While waiting on your test kit, add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine each day to the pool with the pump running.
Be sure to clean your filter well as the clarifier will plug it up quickly.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
 
We are the 3rd day in of the Slam process. We have put in over 12 G of Liquid Chlorine to date. This morning we needed an additional 4 G And 2 qts of liquid chlorine to Slam Based on test results. We added the 4 G of liquid Chlorine and added 3 lbs of granular calcium hydrochlorite (Because we ran out of liquid) and the pool turned green? Why did the pool turn green? And do we continue with the Slam process until the water is Completely clear? We do have staining in the pool again. Is that why the pool turned green from the metals that are present?
 
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Yes keep slamming. An expert will chime in soon, but I think high chlorine effects metals in the water. Not sure if iron or copper? Have you tested for metals? Maybe post a full set of test results for the experts.
 
I don’t have a test for metals. In the past, we have thrown in Absorbic Acid and the green would be gone.
Test results this morning:

FC - 1.31
PH - 7.3
TA- 75
CH - 86
CYA- 38
 

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Are you following the SLAM Process? That is testing, with a FAS-DPD test kit, the FC every few hours and raising the FC back to SLAM level.

You most likely have iron in your water. High FC will oxidize it. You need to deal with the algae first. You can put polyfill in the skimmer basket and that will filter out some of the iron.
 
Yes, we are following the SLAM process. But, we think there is a possibility the liquid chlorine could be old. After we added the 4 plus gallons this morning, we waited an hour or so, re-tested and the results of the FC came back with a reading of 1.31 ppm. We would've expected a FC level close to the Slam rate of close to 15 correct? And if my assumption is correct, then the liquid chlorine must be old correct?

We are also nervous pouring so much chlorine into the water. Is it not corrosive? Will it harm our vinyl liner in our effort to get the water clear?

What is polyfill? Appreciate the answers!
 
Are you testing with a FAS-DPD test kit? I suspect a high FC could alter your ColorQ testing which is for low FC levels.
 
We do not have the new test kit yet you recommended. So, are you saying the FC level from our ColorQ test is not really testing for the FC levels?

Is this your recommendation?
TAYLOR TECHNOLOGIES INC K-2006 TEST KIT COMP CHLORINE FAS-DPD
by Taylor
 

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I suggest you order a TF-100 test kit from Test Kits
Or a K2006C - the 'C' is important as it has larger reagent bottle than the K2006 testkit.

The TF-100 is the better deal as it has more of the reagents we use most often. Also suggest you order a Speedstir as it makes testing easier and more consistent.
 
Another question: Using the Slam process, do we test every 2-3 hours to see what the FC level is? And after each test, on the Pool Math app, we log the test results and then hit the SLAM button to indicate our SLAM Target FC level?

For example, after we added 4 plus gallons of liquid chlorine this morning with a test result of 1.31, the SLAM target said 15. So does that mean when we test the FC Chlorine again, we want the test result to return somewhere around 15 ppm?
 
Each time you test you enter that result, every 2-3 hours. Then based on your CYA result (round up to the nearest full number, yours is 40 according to the ColorQ), you toggle the SLAM button. It will give you a target of 16 ppm FC. Add that amount of chlorine.
Let 2-3 hours go by (pump is running 24/7), do it all again.
Read SLAM Process
 
Our pool water went green again. Here are the test results:

FC = .5
PH = 7.0
TA = 62
CH = 209
CYA = 29

We received the FAS-DPD test kit and tested the FC. Results above. We had added Absorbic Acid 4 days ago to get rid of the metal staining, which it did quite nicely. However, we were waiting for the Metals Out product to arrive. Yesterday Metals Out arrived and we added the appropriate amount based on our pool volume. Last night we added more Chlorine based on the test results & the Slam process and this morning we wake up to a green pool and it appears the staining is back as well!

Any suggestions?
 
Finish your SLAM first. Only after that is done can you think about the metals. The ascorbic acid is eating up your chlorine, which is then letting the algae grow exponentially. After you lift the metal stains, you have to slowly return your chemistry to normal, or the metals just redeposit and stain again. You can't do both processes at once, because they are fighting each other.

The SLAM is urgent. Metal staining can wait until after the SLAM is done.
 
We are also nervous pouring so much chlorine into the water. Is it not corrosive? Will it harm our vinyl liner in our effort to get the water clear?

If you follow the CYA FC chart, as long as your keep your FC at or below the FC SLAM level for your pools CYA, then there will be no damage to your liner (obviously dont pour the bleach right onto the liner, pour it into the pool water and let it get diluted out). Not only this, but you can also swim at correct SLAM levels.

FOr what its worth, I pour my bleach in my pool in the deep end, right in front of a return. This forces the bleach to quickly dissipate and dilute into the rest of the water.

If you were using Calhypo, or dichlor (which I dont recommend either for this process), if you let the granules sit on the liner on teh bottom, that can cause some issues.
 
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Yes, we are following the SLAM process. But, we think there is a possibility the liquid chlorine could be old.

There will be a date code on teh botle in this format. So today is July 23, 2020. This is the 205th day of 2020. So the date code would start with something like this

20205...

Try to get as fresh as possible. I wont buy anything older than 30 days. Also, things should be stored in climate control if possible. I do not like to buy bottles that have been stored outside in teh sun.
 
Finish your SLAM first. Only after that is done can you think about the metals. The ascorbic acid is eating up your chlorine, which is then letting the algae grow exponentially. After you lift the metal stains, you have to slowly return your chemistry to normal, or the metals just redeposit and stain again. You can't do both processes at once, because they are fighting each other.

The SLAM is urgent. Metal staining can wait until after the SLAM is done.
Is the pool green because of the metals or the algae?
 

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