Closing Procedure

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JPMorgan

JPMorgan

Gold Supporter
May 22, 2018
847
Elmhurst, IL
Pool Size
60000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
First, I just want to say THANK YOU to TFP. I discovered this site after a very frustrating opening this spring (after 25 years as a pool owner) and have never had a better summer with my pool. I followed the TFP method and never really even had to shock my pool this year after the initial SLAM. My pool has been crystal clear, for the most part, all summer long. So, again, THANK YOU for all the great information, advice and guidance provided on this site.

I am starting to think about closing my pool this year, which I usually do in late September or early October, depending on the weather. I have read the Pool Closing information in Pool School and just have a few questions.


  1. In the past I have purchased a "closing kit", but from the information I read in Pool School it doesn't appear that this is necessary. The kit typically contains a "winterizer" (algaecide), "stain away", several bags of cal hypo, a non-chlorine floater (MPS?) and a "winter sorb" sponge. More expensive kits contain two Natural Chemistry products (Pool Magic Spring and Fall and Metal Free). The TFP Pool Closing instructions indicate that all I need to do is shock the pool several days before closing, then add Polyqat on the day of closing before I start draining. Are all of these other items in the closing kit completely unnecessary?
  2. Is there a particular type of PolyQuat that I should be using? I notice there are several types (Polyquat 50, Polyquat 60, etc.) Is there any particular brand or type of Polyquat that TFP recommends? I can purchase a "Winter Algaecide" from In The Swim for about $18 (vs. about $45 for closing kit). Is that all I need or should I be using a different type of algaecide? Here is the description of the Winter Algaecide on their website:

In The Swim has been selling this special formula of Winter Algaecide since 1984. It works so well, and is so popular with our customers, that they come back again and again – even when they tried switching to an off-brand.
For unparalleled winter protection, add our winter pool algaecide to your pool after you have cleaned the pool, balanced the chemistry and lowered the pool water. Just pour it into the pool; the active polymers distribute themselves through the pool in a few hours, without the need for circulation.
Our best pool algaecide for winter will not disappoint. You can count on our quality formulation to keep your pool water fresh all through the fall and winter, so that your spring pool opening is less work. Many of our customers who don't use a winter chemical kit use winter algaecide along with a floating chlorinator to maintain their water quality through the long winter.

Finally, I live just outside of Chicago, so I always blow/vacuum out my lines and add anti-freeze. I am using a shop vac to get water out of the lines and I probably don't get every drop of water out. Am I okay as long as I am filling the lines with an RV type anti-freeze. I always fill the lines until I get overflow from the point where I am adding the anti-freeze.

Thanks.
 
The kit does have some extra stuff in it for sure! I will tell you that if is not listed as needed in the TFP link for closing then you do not need it.

The Polyquat 60 is the one you want as it has the most active ingredient in it.

Good luck!
 
In my experience there is no reason to use an algecide in a Northern location. I’m in Southern Illinois and for 28 years all I have done is raise the chlorine level prior to closing and my pool is clear when I open the following spring.

I use liquid chlorine to raise the level to SLAM level and circulate for a couple of hours, then blow the lines, fill with RV antifreeze, and cover the pool. I don’t lower the level in my pool, I use an aquadoor on my skimmer and a combination of plugs and a Gigit check valve to winterize the lines.
 
Thanks to both of you for the additional info.

Two more questions: The closing info in Pool School says the following: "Two or three days before closing, bring the pool up to shock level and hold it there until FC holds overnight... Then let the chlorine level fall about half way back to normal levels, typically another day and a half." robhdrider..... you said you raise the FC to SLAM level and cover the pool after a couple hours. Is there any possible issue with covering the pool with FC at SLAM level? Is there any reason to let it drift back down over a day or two or is that just wasting time?

Also, I like the idea of an aquadoor so I don't have to lower the water level. Is this an easy DIY project or should I get a pool company to install one. (I'm not that handy, so if it's tricky at all I would want a professional to do it.)

Thanks.
 
The aquadoor requires the replacement of the skimmer faceplate, while I don’t consider that a difficult task you would have to decide for yourself if this is something you would want to tackle or not.

Not my intent to go against anything in Pool School, just describing what I do and my results. With my pool and knowing that there are no water chemistry issues at closing I view the additional chlorine addition as providing an excess to be available from the time I cover the pool until the water is cold. I have to close on a schedule that works for me and this is often before the water is below the recommended temperature to close. Depending on the year and my schedule I close anywhere from the last week of September to the last week of October. In the spring I try to open by mid May.
 
That's about the same schedule that I am on for opening and closing. I believe one year (based on something I read.... not on TFP) I did dump a bunch of Dichlor in my pool right before covering pool and there didn't seem to be any issue. I will not use Dichlor (now that I know that it also contains a lot of CYA), but will likely plan to just cover the pool after bringing to shock level and circulating for a few hours..... unless I get advice from the experts here not to do that. I do plan to add a quart of polyquat 60 to the pool also, just to be on the safe side. Will definitely get pool company to install the aquadoor rather than attempt that myself.

Thanks for the advice and pointers.
 
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