Closing my Pool, Need help in treating the water....

[ajdevp]

Hello,

I live in north eastern New Jersey, and it's time to close my pool.

This was the first swimming season whereby I converted to the BBB method of maintaining water chemistry, and it worked great, thanks for that!

All those years prior, I used to shock my pool weekly with expensive Lithium, but this year, I didn't have to shock at all, other than opening the pool up this past spring.

So I need some consultation on how to close my pool.

I know the basics, like draining the water level, cleaning my DE filter, putting equipment away, putting the safety cover on, blowing the lines, adding pool anti-freeze, etc. That I know.

What I don't know is how to treat the water before closing?

I read your basic "How to Close an In-Ground Pool" aritcle, and it mentioned shock chlorine levels and Polyquat (algeacide).

I don't know what my shock level is? Nor do I know what type of Algae preventor and how much of it to use.

Please give me step by step list of how to treat my water for closing, please be as specific as possible.

Thank you,

Appreciate it.

Adrian

 

[CJadamec]

When you are ready to close the pool before shutting down the pump system bring your chlorine level up to SLAM level for 1-2days prior to shutting the water system down. Your SLAM level is based on this CHART and you need to know what your current CYA levels are to use it.

The polyquat is optional you don't need it especially up in the north where your pool will stay plenty cold during the winter to inhibit algae growth. The trick to opening your pool to clear water is to keep leaves and debris out of the pool and to open the pool early before the water temps get up above 60 degrees. Getting your pump running early to mid may in our neck of the woods is what you should plan for.

 

[ajdevp]

Thank you for the advice. If it doesn't cause any harm, I would like to use Polyquat option. How much of it should I use, and when/how do I pour it in?

Can I drain the water first, then add it in non-circulating water?

Or should I add it in while pump is still running for a few days before draining and shutting pump off for the winter?

Thanks again.

Adrian

 

[JoeSelf]

You want to use PolyQuat 60. Nothing with any other ingredients. You will want to add at least 2 days before closing and pump running to mix well. After you have raised to SLAM level based on your CYA leave some time for the FC level to come down on its own before adding the PolyQuat. Dosage will be on the bottle in ozs per 10,000 gallons.

 

[Catanzaro]

Allow your levels to come down after the SLAM, at least a few days before adding the PolyQuat. I have found that the algaecide will consume most of the chlorine. Some people add algaecide and only keep pool at SLAM level before they close. I like the idea of PolyQuat. Good luck and keep us posted!

 

[ssummer]

So other than SLAMing and adding Polyquat 60, there are no other chemicals to add when closing, correct? I've read some articles that suggest adding some chlorine floaters during the winter...is that necessary? Or do you just add those in the March-timeframe prior to opening?

 

[Catanzaro]

Your pool should be properly balanced as it has been all summer long. Nothing else is needed. Remember to open up early in the spring. The pump run time could be as little as 3 hours per day and chlorine additions could be every week, so the time involved is minimal. Wake up to a green swamp, and the SLAM could take a long time.

 

[ajdevp]

Thanks for all the good advice as always!

Adrian

 

[Sashka]

Most (but not all) people advice to have normal 7.2-7.4 ph and ~100 TA. Could someone explain why?

My understanding is that the winterizing kit that I throw in water just before closing takes the phosphates out and that all I care about in terms of algae bloom prevention in the spring.

What am I missing? Could high ph and/or low TA lead to stains, for example?