Cleaning my bro's pool

[bignick]

Hi folks. I've been following the TFP method for the last 11 years since my pool was built. I have the TF-100 test kit and familiar with the different chemical levels. This message is concerning my brother's swamp of a pool. When he was having pool issues a few years ago, I suggested that he stop using tablets and drain part of the pool to get the CYA in check and it was clean for a little while, but is green again. I don't believe the pump has been on for a while. Unfortunately, my brother passed away a few months ago and I offered to clean the pool for my sister-in-law. I went over yesterday to run some tests. I didn't run through the whole gamut, but came away with the following:

CH: 0
CYA: 0
pH: 8.5+
TA: 70

I was expecting the CYA to be through the roof, but after mixing, the sample was not the least bit cloudy. I also found 4 gallons of liquid chlorine in the garage, so evidently, he drained the pool and switched to liquid chlorine, but maybe didn't add any stabilizer. The chlorine was probably burning off so fast, he couldn't keep up with it. In preparation, I have a few questions. I'm going to add CYA to get to about 30; probably use the liquid conditioner for the speed. Also will add acid to get the pH down. The basic pool stats are: 20,000 gal, in-ground, concrete, spa, Jacuzzi VS pump, Hayward DE filter and multivalve, heater, built in approx 1980.

1. First step is to scoop out as much debris as possible. I've never used a pool vacuum. Should I plan on buying one for the small debris and dead algae and vacuuming to waste, or can I get by with just brushing and let the filter catch it all? If I do vacuum, I was going to try to use a skimmer plate so the basket will catch some of the larger debris.

2. This will be my first experience with a DE filter (I have a cartridge on my pool), but I've read a few tutorials on how the multivalve operates and how to backwash. Is all DE material the same or are there different types?

3. Since the pump needs to be on 24/7 while the algae is being killed, does it have to be at full speed or can I dial it back to half speed?

4. This system is way more complicated than I'm used to. I don't have any valves on my pool, but this has a bunch. With a single pump, is the flow diverted to either the spa OR the pool; does it ever go to both? I want to post pics to see if some of the TFP members can clarify what some of the valves are for; should I post in this thread or create a new thread in the pump forum?

Thanks for any feedback.

 

[mknauss]

Good for you helping out.

I assume the CH in your list of test results is FC. Use CH for calcium hardness.

First is to get the pH into the 7's. Use muriatic acid for that.
Second, check for ammonia. Use this:
Add sufficient liquid chlorine to your pool to get to FC 10ppm. Circulate for 30 minutes. Check your FC, if 5 or below, add LC to get to FC 10 ppm, circulate 30 minutes, test for FC, etc. Once your FC is above 5 ppm at your test after 30 minutes of circulation, then the ammonia is gone.

Does the filter have a Waste outlet? If so, a hose and vacuum could be handy to vac to waste the really heavy solids. Otherwise you will be backflushing alot.

Do not use food or garden grade DE. They sell pool filter DE.

The pump can be run on slow speed.

You should be able to split the return flow between spa and pool. That would be a good idea.

There is a start. Others will have more ideas. Good luck.

Take care.

 

[rammy]

sorry for your loss

 

[bignick]

Thanks for the help and thoughts guys.

Yes...I meant FC, not CH. There is a waste port and I found a flat hose which my brother used to pump out to the storm drain. I know that's not right, so I'll have to extend the hose to the sewer cleanout location in the front yard. My SIL said my brother once mentioned something about a leak. I really hope he wasn't suspecting a leak in an underground pipe, but I'll know more as soon as I start the pump again.