Circupool Edge 40

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Kjingram821

Kjingram821

Well-known member
Aug 5, 2020
49
Cincinnati
Getting ready to install this tonight Edge 40). I see the recommendations to have a timer and I understand the reasoning. Do flow switches really fail closed like that? As in, they fail and still send signal that there's flow when there's not? Only reason I ask is I have a VSP Pentair pump but no automation, just it's built in programming (runs about 12 hours a day). I do have a timer already installed from my prior non-vsp pump, right now it's just 24 hour on because I use the Pentair programming. I could use that existing timer to wire the outlet for the SWG and then run a new run to the pump (just more of a PITA because I have to open the switch housing for the pump). Even the timer isn't perfect, though. If my pump failed stopping water flow and the flow switch was bad and the timer was still energized it could still explode?

Side question, what RPM is typically required to get enough flow to activate the SWG?
 
I'm at work currently. Not sure I want to use the timer for my vsp, as I'm not sure it would default to "on" when power is restored via the timer. I know my pump will hold it's programming for 24 hours without power, just unsure if the Pentairs switch back to "on" when power is restored. If I flip my switch outside to kill power to the pump to backwash, then flip the switch back on, the pump stays off until I press it's power button.

It's definitely a double pole single throw time,so I know it *could* control both. I wired it myself, just don't remember the model. It's just a basic mechanical timer with the on/off contact trippers.

I'm definitely a 2 is one, 1 is none type of person, so I'm not opposed to the double redundant safety, I just don't see much benefit to the timer, as I mentioned in the original post.
 
Kjingram821 said:
Not sure I want to use the timer for my vsp, as I'm not sure it would default to "on" when power is restored via the timer.
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There is a good chance your timer has the ability to provide full time power to the pump and timed power to the SWG.
 
Kjingram821 said:
I'm definitely a 2 is one, 1 is none type of person, so I'm not opposed to the double redundant safety, I just don't see much benefit to the timer, as I mentioned in the original post.
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The flow switch is a cheapo 19 cent moving part. It's not a matter of if it will fail, but when. Admittedly it will take some time, but it will fail one day.

Or it gets plugged with debris that made it through the filter when something didn't seat right.

Many of us run our VS pumps 24/7 for many benefits and one of those is that the timer isn't needed because the pump is always running.
Kjingram821 said:
what RPM is typically required to get enough flow to activate the SWG?
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1200 to 1700 seems to work for most pools, with more complicated systems needing more RPMs. Mine is dirt simple and works down to 700 RPMs / 35W. Your system appears to be dirt simple also and likely also has tons of flow.
 
No, it's single throw double pole 240VAC timer, L1 and L2 are either on or off together. Right now I'm just using pole, as my vsp is running on 120VAC. But I don't need the timer for the pump, so I could rewire so the timer goes to an outlet for the Edge 40 (assuming it has a standard plug, it was just delivered today). I just left the timer in place when I got the VSP because the Romex is already cut at it, and it's basically just service as a "junction box" right now because I didn't want to replace with a continuous Romex run when there was no reason to.

Then I could run my new romex to the switch for the pump. Not a huge deal, just more of a pain in the butt and for what seems like little return. The only instance it would help would be if my flow switch somehow activated the SWG overnight while my pump was off. I guess that's possible. There's still no way to prevent an explosion in the event of a pump failure, though. Also, being as it's a mechanical timer it would be effected by power outages. I guess it must be periodically checked to make sure the time stays correct?
 
Kjingram821 said:
Haven't tried lower yet, you all have me afraid of it blowing up :ROFLMAO:
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Don't overthink it. ;)

For me, the SWG and heater will work at about 1800. I add 200 rpm as a 'safety factor' (restriction in the skimmer, dirty filter etc).
At 2000 RPM, my new pump pulls about 400w - at 2200, 500w. 500w is about $0.09/hr
The old single speed pump ran at 1.7kw - it was costing $0.30/hr to run.

If bump the new one up to 'CLEAN' (3450), it's about the same as the old single speed (1.8kw), but pushes about double the water.

If I ran 24 hours at 2200 vs 2000, it would cost me less than $0.40/day more. $12/month is less than my grandsons 'Ooh, that looks tasty....nah, don't like it' snack bill...
 
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One other quick question. My ph is 7.0. TA I think is around 100~110 (haven't tested it in 2 weeks). Will the ph naturally come up with the SWG? I have boric acid in the pool as well. Thank you all for all you do for the pool community.
 
My concern about RPM isn't cost, but increased heat loss at night this time of year. I'd like to get it down to 1000 and will try tonight and see if the SWG works at that RPM. Heater will likely be next year, then there's no concern at all.
 
Kjingram821 said:
One other quick question. My ph is 7.0. TA I think is around 100~110 (haven't tested it in 2 weeks). Will the ph naturally come up with the SWG? I have boric acid in the pool as well. Thank you all for all you do for the pool community.
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The SWCG does not appreciably effect pH. TA and high fill water TA do impact pH rise. Your TA of 100 or above will push the pH higher with aeration.
 
Kjingram821 said:
My concern about RPM isn't cost, but increased heat loss at night this time of year. I'd like to get it down to 1000 and will try tonight and see if the SWG works at that RPM. Heater will likely be next year, then there's no concern at all.
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Single biggest way to stop heat loss is a cover.
I have a solar cover that based on napkin-math, probably saves me 50-75% of heating costs overnight.
 
One more question, and maybe no one will be able to help with this. I put a switch in for my SWG, but the cable coming from it is smaller than the hole in the electrical box. I used liquitight sheathing for the supply, but I'm unsure how to get the wire to seal up that comes from the SWG into the box. Was thinking a bushing to make the hole smaller and maybe a cable clamp to hold it in, then fill with silicone? I did put that wire coming out of the bottom of the box, so it's at least protected from direct water, but moisture could still get in. I can get pictures later when I get home if needed.
 
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Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:
www.homedepot.com

Arlington Industries 1/2 in. Low-Profile Strain Relief Cord Connector (single pack) LPCG503-1 - The Home Depot

1/2 in. Low-Profile Strain Relief Cord Connector has a unique grommet with gripping fingers. Once of the connectors that has the largest cord in the industry, so there are fewer items to stock/use. Furnished
www.homedepot.com
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That's like what I need, but I wonder if there's one small enough to fit the cable. I'll snap a picture when I get home.
 

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